Would You crack on?

[foxhole]

You don't see may shower curtains fitted these days or did you have something else in mind ?

Nothing required, have no door or curtain on my shower.

 

[hellboy]

Unable to upload video sadly.

I've just dumped half a Flexi-bucket onto the tray to observe the drainage. There is a slight difference with more water collecting on the lower side but even with a large water flow it doesn't come close to moving over the tray lip. The normal flow will be a fair bit slower as our water pressure is average. (9LPM)

The water drains completely as there exists a decent fall INSIDE the tray.

I've had a good look and I don't think a cement or adhesive base is an option, it'll mean removing backer board and re-tanking an area, all of which will cost a fair bit and be time consuming.

I'm trying to decide between using a self leveller (then silicone) to straighten things up or just crack on with the silicone. Using a self leveller will avoid the need for removing the backer boards etc and can give me a perfect level (he says). Decisions, decisions.....

 

[hellboy]

The extent of the error!!

Regarding the use of silicone, the manufacturer states its a silicone adhesive or sand cement bed, which I will adhere to (pun intended) for warranty purposes.

I've just removed the tray, bit of a pain, I should have definitely given more leeway in the walls. My lack of building experience makes me quite OCD, and that's not a good thing.

My options are self leveller and fix with silicone, or extra silicone in the low area and hope it levels up by a couple of mm.

If it was me, I'd be packing in a 3mm piece of ply to support the majority of the gap if the tray isn't going to sit perfectly flat at that corner. If it is then the other option as you have already suggested is to use the tile to take up the gap.

The critical part of it a tray fit is to ensure the tray is fully supported over its whole base as any gap below will allow the tray to move/flex longer term and can then burst the watertight seal, even with a stone resin tray, no matter what it is being bedded in with.

Are you suggesting a 3mm sheet of ply to cover the low areas?

Thanks fellas

 

[Madrab]

If your level is showing how level the tray is, both across the width and depth then I wouldn't worry about it being out that much out. I would have packed under the base to make sure the platform was dead level and any deviation caught at that point. I wouldn't farf about with a self leveller, if you're only talking 3mm lower at one corner.

If you're overly worried about the 3mm at the corner then yes, over fill that corner with silicone adhesive and then level the tray out and leave it to set overnight before any weight is put on it.

 

[hellboy]

If your level is showing how level the tray is, both across the width and depth then I wouldn't worry about it being out that much out. I would have packed under the base to make sure the platform was dead level and any deviation caught at that point. I wouldn't farf about with a self leveller, if you're only talking 3mm lower at one corner.

If you're overly worried about the 3mm at the corner then yes, over fill that corner with silicone adhesive and then level the tray out and leave it to set overnight before any weight is put on it.

Thanks man.

I'm going to crack on. The difference is not more than 3mm max, closer to 2. I'll learn from my mistake here.....check spirit level before building stuff! Love my new Stabila level, don't love that its just told me one of my soon to be tiled walls is 5mm out.

Thanks again, where us novices would be without forums is anyones guess!

 

[lostinthelight]

I have done a few mira trays where the floor has not been quite level by shimming with plastic spacers . Then silicon or tile cement with more in what was the lower area, so when the tray is fully bedded it can't sink too far. .. I'm not a pro mind

 

[hellboy]

Thanks man.

I'm just removing one of the backer boards now. Will give me better access to fix the tray, I'll also allow me to get the wall plumb in the process. I've got a fresh tube of CT1, going to favour the low spots but ensure the contact points are all covered, then as suggested buy Madrab leave overnight for tiling tomorrow.

 

[lostinthelight]

I knock up a free standing frame up so not to puncture the tanking to tile off the height of the first tile.

 

[datadiyer]

Hi, how are you getting on?

 

[hellboy]

Hi mate,

Thanks for asking. We finally went for the sand/cement option. Removed the backer board from one side, 5-1 mix laid and levelled and filled the edges with CT1 to help prevent any movement. It took 2 attempts and its still a mil or 2 out on one corner, but I think there's a slight bow in the tray which has made it all the more challenging. Happy we did it that way eventually!

Probably going to give it 36 hours or so before starting the tilling, though I'm keen to get it done as its been dragging. Now to setting out and navigating that shower niche!

 

[datadiyer]

Ah, good to hear pal. If there's a bow in the tray then there's nothing you can do about that. Also if you have sand/cement underneath I'm sure it won't matter and it'll be fine, you'll also forget about any minor level differences in a few weeks. I'm building in a shower niche also, not sure I trust my tiling, although after the quote we had for tiling, I think I will be doing it myself.

 

[hellboy]

Cheers mate.

I'm just setting out now...quite looking forward to it, but I've got a niche, sloped ceiling and a wall which is slightly out to navigate, should be fun. I didn't get any quotes for the tiling, the lime repointing of our house has taken that cash!

Thanks again, these forums are a life saver.