Wylex Consumer Unit replacement help.

Examples - not really aware of any other than a duff cable which if a problem the owner may well be aware of. If a 2.5mm radial had 30amp protection on it that would be downrated when the new cu was fitted - how well the cable happens to be is another matter. Owner are likely to know that their electrics essentially work and will know if fuses blow. A new installation may trip when something is plugged in - nothing to do with wiring just a problem with what has been plugged in. A cable could have a partial short but would fail when tested. That may not mean that a new cu can not be fitted just that this particular cable can't be connected until it's fixed. Stupid resistance readings on a cable may indicate a bad connection

Sleeving the cpc hasn't always been in the regs. Earthing metal back boxes has and hasn't been. If none was in the regs why does it need updating? Barrier strip has been in use for a long time - being sure of where they have been used would involve inspecting the entire length of a capable via getting floorboards up all over the place. At some points in time they may have insulation tape over them. At other points in time maybe not. Some may be ceramic so plastic or junction boxes may have been used.

What I don't get about testing twice is that cables need to be checked for resistance, continuity and insulation and any one who has to fit a cu has to do that anyway so there shouldn't be any need to pay twice.

Explanation - When the fixing screws are fitted to a modern socket they earth the back box. Light switches i have seen do not have an earth connection so assume but haven't looked their back boxes must be earthed.
 
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That's the meter :eek: ? A more usual arrangement is the feed from the meter being split into 2 pairs one to the house cu and the other to a switched fuse unit for the garage cu. They tend to use rather large bolt/screw connection units to split the feed from the meter 2 ways. Their name escapes me at the moment.

Unless there is some sort of replaceable fuse for the garage feed this looks to be rather odd as only the main fuse is protecting it. I don't think it's ever been done without separate protection but may be incorrect. Also usually having separate isolation as well.

I've seen meters of various ages and never one like that. A photo of the entire set up might clear things up

This is an image for the internal meter set up. The four tails I referred to can be seen, 2 on the left going to the house CU with the others to a breaker switch which in turn feeds to garage CU. I hope it clear enough.
Meter - Copy.jpg
 
The garage breaker is probably a switched fuse unit. That may use a wired fuse under the cover or a cartridge fuse. So essentially correct if fused. The fuse might even be in the meter - pass as never seen one like that.

So ;) thread so long I had to reread the first post, don't think you have a problem. The electrician that fits the new cu should check wiring before going ahead and may nose around before quoting. Can't see if you have an isolator for the main feed but looks like one fuse :) Bigger and clearer would be better. If no isolator an electrician should get the fuse removed and later replaced by the correct people. If you are being notified about having a smart meter fitted it may pay to do that first. They wont be bothered about you having a wylex cu and will probably wire up the garage feed as well using henly blocks to split the new meter tails. What they will do if that isn't fused pass. If there is one in the meter then they should fit something foc. Some electricians will remove and refit the fuse for cu work but as it's notifiable I'd guess few would in practice so as the smart meter is free a better option.

Your garage feed is basically the way it's done if some one want a garage cu's rcd's or rcbo's to work independently of the house cu's protection. Subject to wiring sums that can be done using an MCB in the house cu that bypasses any rcd's fitted or via a fuse that also bypasses house rcd's or a switched fuse unit. There are complications in the latest regs about cabling to a garage cu that say has to be swa in some areas but could be twin and earth in previous regs so shouldn't need updating providing it's ok.

:( As you may gather I have got that far but garage feed in my case has sum problems due to length

As they have to check all of the wiring at the cu people can always find they have a problem that they were unaware of. No way around that and not had a new cu fitted yet.
 
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The garage breaker is probably a switched fuse unit. That may use a wired fuse under the cover or a cartridge fuse. So essentially correct if fused. The fuse might even be in the meter - pass as never seen one like that.

So ;) thread so long I had to reread the first post, don't think you have a problem. The electrician that fits the new cu should check wiring before going ahead and may nose around before quoting. Can't see if you have an isolator for the main feed but looks like one fuse :) Bigger and clearer would be better. If no isolator an electrician should get the fuse removed and later replaced by the correct people. If you are being notified about having a smart meter fitted it may pay to do that first. They wont be bothered about you having a wylex cu and will probably wire up the garage feed as well using henly blocks to split the new meter tails. What they will do if that isn't fused pass. If there is one in the meter then they should fit something foc. Some electricians will remove and refit the fuse for cu work but as it's notifiable I'd guess few would in practice so as the smart meter is free a better option.

Your garage feed is basically the way it's done if some one want a garage cu's rcd's or rcbo's to work independently of the house cu's protection. Subject to wiring sums that can be done using an MCB in the house cu that bypasses any rcd's fitted or via a fuse that also bypasses house rcd's or a switched fuse unit. There are complications in the latest regs about cabling to a garage cu that say has to be swa in some areas but could be twin and earth in previous regs so shouldn't need updating providing it's ok.

:( As you may gather I have got that far but garage feed in my case has sum problems due to length

As they have to check all of the wiring at the cu people can always find they have a problem that they were unaware of. No way around that and not had a new cu fitted yet.

Thanks for your detailed reply.

If it helps, this is a close-up of the meter/supply feed.

Meter 1 - Copy.jpg
 
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I can't see anything that changes prev reply. Maybe others can

Meter 1 - Copy.jpg
 
The revised image was in response to the request "Can't see if you have an isolator for the main feed but looks like one fuse :) Bigger and clearer would be better".

I shall leave things for now and revisit it once the current crises subsides.

Thanks again, Benny.
 
Examples - not really aware of any other than a duff cable which if a problem the owner may well be aware of. If a 2.5mm radial had 30amp protection on it that would be downrated when the new cu was fitted - how well the cable happens to be is another matter. Owner are likely to know that their electrics essentially work and will know if fuses blow. A new installation may trip when something is plugged in - nothing to do with wiring just a problem with what has been plugged in. A cable could have a partial short but would fail when tested. That may not mean that a new cu can not be fitted just that this particular cable can't be connected until it's fixed. Stupid resistance readings on a cable may indicate a bad connection

Sleeving the cpc hasn't always been in the regs. Earthing metal back boxes has and hasn't been. If none was in the regs why does it need updating? Barrier strip has been in use for a long time - being sure of where they have been used would involve inspecting the entire length of a capable via getting floorboards up all over the place. At some points in time they may have insulation tape over them. At other points in time maybe not. Some may be ceramic so plastic or junction boxes may have been used.


The point is that you cannot issue a Electrical Installation Certificate if any of the circuits have faults. I'm not really sure I understand what you are trying to get across here.

What I don't get about testing twice is that cables need to be checked for resistance, continuity and insulation and any one who has to fit a cu has to do that anyway so there shouldn't be any need to pay twice.

As I see things, there are 3 options for quoting. All work fine, when no faults are found.
1 - Quote 1 day to fit and test.
When any faults are found and the electrician has to fix these before the CU can be signed off and commissioned into service and this inconveniences the customer.
If further site visits are required, the electrician loses money and may have to reschedule jobs which impacts other customers.

2 - Quote 1 day to fit and test, with a an agreement that the customer pays the daily rate should the electrician have to come back to fix faults.
When any faults are found and the electrician has to fix these before the CU can be signed off and commissioned into service and this inconveniences the customer.
The customer faces an unknown bill for the remedial work. If further site visits are required, the electrician may have to reschedule jobs which impacts other customers.

3 - Quote for an EICR and a the CU change on different days.
This may be 2 half day jobs (I price by the number of circuits for an EICR bit most of the time this is close to my half-day rate).
The customer is left with a working installation and remedial work can be scheduled to minimise inconvenience. The customer doesn't pay twice.

Explanation - When the fixing screws are fitted to a modern socket they earth the back box. Light switches i have seen do not have an earth connection so assume but haven't looked their back boxes must be earthed.

I don't know what you mean.
 
Apologies for revisiting this thread but now that things are reverting to something like near normal I’m revisiting this issue.

Having had some estimates and a quotation for the fuse board change out I have a couple of questions someone may have an opinion on.

1)Everyone is suggesting I fit Surge protection and use Rcbo’s – has this become mandatory, standard or just desirable? They describe it at their current practice.

2)On pricing – I have had quotes or estimates ranging from £670 to £795. The former was an estimate while the latter was following a site visit. I’ve requested and been quoted £145 for an electrical test/inspection on the current installation to identify issues prior to commencing work in case there are any major issue that can’t be resolved in the same timescale as the board change out. Are these prices reasonable?
Incidentally I live in the West Midlands.

Sorry to ramble on.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/wylex-consumer-unit-replacement-help.540912/#ixzz6v932Mw00
 
Go for rcbo. Cost effective for 6 circuits.

spd is to protect your expensive electronic equipment (computers etc).
If you have good width for your CU, you may as well go for it.

The eicr benefits the electrican doing the CU change. I would be tempted to go for the quote and no eicr. Cost effective for you
 
Go for rcbo. Cost effective for 6 circuits.

spd is to protect your expensive electronic equipment (computers etc).
If you have good width for your CU, you may as well go for it.

The eicr benefits the electrican doing the CU change. I would be tempted to go for the quote and no eicr. Cost effective for you
Appreciate your input.
The only reason I was considering the EICR was the age of some of my wiring (50+years). My concern is, after installing the CU, problems arise necessitating a full rewire then it could lead to a great deal of redecorating. Let’s say I’m at that stage in life where disruption is the last thing I need!
Regards, Benny.
 
Yep well within my area. Feel free to give me a shout

To the relief of those that have responded to and tolerated my numerous question I believe I can finally see an end in sight.

Many thanks to all the contributors especially 'jelliottelectrical', who, following a visit provided initial guidance and now a very competitive quote to carry out the work.

I appreciate all the input.

Benny.
 

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