I am wiring a new kitchen and was told that the cooker switch has to be more than 1m from the cooker. Is this true and what other restictions are there relating to sockets and their positions from sinks and hobs
I am wiring a new kitchen and was told that the cooker switch has to be more than 1m from the cooker. Is this true and what other restictions are there relating to sockets and their positions from sinks and hobs
Neil. with respect, if you do not know this or know how to look it up, then your not competent to do the work, I would suggest you get in someone who is.
I am wiring a new kitchen and was told that the cooker switch has to be more than 1m from the cooker. Is this true and what other restictions are there relating to sockets and their positions from sinks and hobs
Neil. with respect, if you do not know this or know how to look it up, then your not competent to do the work, I would suggest you get in someone who is.
I understand your point and it is very valid as a carpenter I am no electrician but I wish to do only the first fix electrics so I can plaster it out and I know the regulations have changed recently I have tried to look it up on both the Deputy Priminister site and the IEEE but after several hours was no further forward and in searching on google came up with this site and joined but I guess I will have to keep looking. Thanks anyway
I am wiring a new kitchen and was told that the cooker switch has to be more than 1m from the cooker. Is this true and what other restictions are there relating to sockets and their positions from sinks and hobs
Neil, there is no such restriction and no zones in kitchens. There are, however a number of guidelines about the position of sockets and switches relative to the equipment they serve. (In the average modern kitchen, the 1-meter rule would effectively rule out using electricity altogether!)
Sockets should ideally be at least 300mm (measured horizontally) away from the edges of sinks and hobs. Hidden sockets should (again, ideally) be isolated via readily accessible double-pole isolators. Sockets should be mounted to the building fabric, rather than the sides/backs of cupboards. The isolators for fixed equipment should be readily accessible, visible, identifiable and within 2 metres of the thing they isolate.
As this work is now notifiable you will need a cooperative spark to certify it and this might be your biggest problem. You'll have a job finding somebody to 'self-certify' your work (not allowed), but you may have more luck if you get hold of an electrician before you do the work and ask him if he's willing to oversee the first fix then complete the job.
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