Zoning my heating
- Thread starter Trampspy
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Easy way to zone is fit programmable TRV heads to the valves, every room then independent, can't see point in zone valves unless like this house large area not often used, my granny flat I can turn off.
Good call ditching the 10mm. Your scheme will work fine (check boiler manual for minimum pipe length to bypass) but is unnecessary with TRVs fitted (for B Regs compliance). That said, I've zoned every house i've lived in for upstairs and downstairs....
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My house (not flat below) three rooms down stairs Living room, dinning room, kitchen, and four up stairs bedrooms, however that is no what rooms actually used for, the dinning room has become a bedroom, and one room upstairs is an office and other a craft room, so the programmable TRV's have allowed us to alter the times when room heated to actually suit their use.
It has also allowed fast warm up when returning home, only 10 minutes delay between each down stairs room allows fast warm up of each radiator in turn.
As to if really any benefit is another question as the house retains heat well, so using the geofencing function when we leave home for 10 hours the rooms only cool to 17°C even when below zero outside, I found same with mothers house, all the big ideas to save energy really did very little as house so slow to cool.
What is therefore more important is not to overheat, had a faulty thermostat in mothers house got room to 32°C middle of winter so thought no need to open windows it will cool naturally, but it took a good 8 hours to return to 20°C, also all houses seems very little insulation between the floors, and central heating pipes under the floor were enough to keep bedrooms warm even without the radiators turning on, heat raises, so bedrooms even with radiators turned off rarely cool below 17°C, and I don't like hot bedrooms.
If I think back to the 50's then in my parents house only one room every got really cold, and that room had a single brick skin bay window, the single fire in living room, and cooker in kitchen heated whole house, never lit the open fire in this house, but it is about centre of the house, and will likely heat whole house.
Even the flat under the house, with no heating turned on, never goes below 12°C the boiler is in the flats kitchen so there is some heat, but I was worried about pipes freezing, but no way, it simply stays warm in winter and cool in summer, it is like a cave.
The old idea was keep the cows below the house in winter, however my daughter lived in a listed house in Shrewsbury where not allowed double glazing and walls wattle and daub and heating was a real problem, you also felt drunk as floors not level, but all the insulation we fit does not always help, parents house the bay window trapped the sun, never seemed a problem before double glazing but after found needed fast acting TRV heads, or between sun and radiator the room could very quickly over heat.
So main problem today is not being cold, but getting too hot, it is a compromise the fan assisted radiator may be fast acting, but very expensive and there is some noise, would not want one in bedroom, and the underfloor heating too slow acting, so the thin radiator, not old cast iron, is likely best compromise with an electronic TRV head. But the head really does not need to be wifi, with so much insulation in the house I question the saving using geofencing, as a boiler run more efficient at low out to high output, so unless off for 12 hours or more, not sure it helps?
It has also allowed fast warm up when returning home, only 10 minutes delay between each down stairs room allows fast warm up of each radiator in turn.
As to if really any benefit is another question as the house retains heat well, so using the geofencing function when we leave home for 10 hours the rooms only cool to 17°C even when below zero outside, I found same with mothers house, all the big ideas to save energy really did very little as house so slow to cool.
What is therefore more important is not to overheat, had a faulty thermostat in mothers house got room to 32°C middle of winter so thought no need to open windows it will cool naturally, but it took a good 8 hours to return to 20°C, also all houses seems very little insulation between the floors, and central heating pipes under the floor were enough to keep bedrooms warm even without the radiators turning on, heat raises, so bedrooms even with radiators turned off rarely cool below 17°C, and I don't like hot bedrooms.
If I think back to the 50's then in my parents house only one room every got really cold, and that room had a single brick skin bay window, the single fire in living room, and cooker in kitchen heated whole house, never lit the open fire in this house, but it is about centre of the house, and will likely heat whole house.
Even the flat under the house, with no heating turned on, never goes below 12°C the boiler is in the flats kitchen so there is some heat, but I was worried about pipes freezing, but no way, it simply stays warm in winter and cool in summer, it is like a cave.
The old idea was keep the cows below the house in winter, however my daughter lived in a listed house in Shrewsbury where not allowed double glazing and walls wattle and daub and heating was a real problem, you also felt drunk as floors not level, but all the insulation we fit does not always help, parents house the bay window trapped the sun, never seemed a problem before double glazing but after found needed fast acting TRV heads, or between sun and radiator the room could very quickly over heat.
So main problem today is not being cold, but getting too hot, it is a compromise the fan assisted radiator may be fast acting, but very expensive and there is some noise, would not want one in bedroom, and the underfloor heating too slow acting, so the thin radiator, not old cast iron, is likely best compromise with an electronic TRV head. But the head really does not need to be wifi, with so much insulation in the house I question the saving using geofencing, as a boiler run more efficient at low out to high output, so unless off for 12 hours or more, not sure it helps?
Without seeing the space its hard to tell, main thing is to keep the runs as smooth as possible (ie avoid loads of elbows)
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