Kitchen

Anyone would think that those appliances were on the go continuously, what with the talk of the service fuse rating and all.

The plain fact is that most so-called heavy-current appliances don't consume such a heavy load for most of their programmed cycle apart from the heating cycle - and that they're rarely on together for significant periods.

The only advantage of using a radial circuit, or two, would be to lessen the occasional RCD nuisance tripping from an otherwise conventional and quite adequate 32A ring-circuit.

Integrated appliances should not be fed from socket outlets behind the unit, because those appliances aren't readily portable. They should be supplied from an adjacent cabinet (where possible).

Kitchen loads haven't changed significantly since the 1980's. If anything the 'load' has lessened in 'modern times'.


Lucia.
 
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Here is how I did the last one:

4.0mm² 32A radial supply from the CU to this grid switch

3Ggrid.jpg


Then a 2.5mm² from each DP switch to a single socket for each appliance.

IMGP3597.jpg


I used engraved sockets. There was no issue with the appliances not fitting back because of the sockets.

The grid switch was supplied in steel conduit, and the engraved sockets in surface mini trunking to exempt them from RCD protection.
 
The electrician did mention something about male and female trailing sockets but I don't know what he's on about.

Cheers.

I did that once, from the fcu above the worktop.
A 1.5 flex down a flush pipe to behind the appliance with a single rubber extension lead socket on.
The appliance plugs into it and it can be manouvered to a suitable place so the appliance goes back.
 
Is it free to get upgraded to a 100amp fuse?

Good luck if you can get it for free.

My Supplier wanted £3000 to take my 60amp main fuse up to 80amp.

£1000 for each house linked to the 3 phase street supply.

Which I suppose is cheap compared to some prices I have heard asked.

Best I got out of them was a free isolator.
 
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cheeky frickin newbies..

I have over 9000 posts on this site, the majority of which are in the electrics forum..
i also have over 200 thank you's from people who come here seeking advice..

I have my C&G 236 part 1 and part 2 (which I managed to breeze through in a year )
I have an ONC in electronics and electrical engineering
I have my 2391 inspection and testing and 2382 17th edition wiring regulations.
3 years as an electronics trainee and 14 years as an electrician..( jesus.. has it been that long...? )

I am well aware of most houses capacity and the average house round here is 100A.. with the odd very old house or bungalow coming in at the 60-80A range..

I have a 20A radial in my own kitchen that occasionally trips when I use the washing machine and combi microwave at the same time...

with the washing machine, dishwasher, oven, dryer, microwave all on one ring main it will be very close to , or over it's limit with them all on..

while this is highly unlikely it is possible in a busy family kitchen..
load in the WM, one in the dryer, kids want their tea's so you bang some nuggets and chips in the oven and the beans / peas / whatever in the microwave..

BS 1361 fuses are rated to take 1.5x their rating for an hour or more before they melt.. the graphs even stop for a 60A 1361 for 3600 seconds @ 110A ( ish )..
 
Here is how I did the last one:

4.0mm² 32A radial supply from the CU to this grid switch

What make of switch is that? Most 20A switches I've used struggle with 2 x 2.5mm conductors, never mind 2 x 4mm2 conductors!
 
The switch is actually MK edge, but be warned, the prices for that stuff will make your eyes water :eek:
 
Coljack: if you need to justify yourself by presenting your credentials or stating the number of posts you've made here, then you're clearly still struggling to make yourself clear, dear.


Lucia.
 
You shouldn't be so quick to bite, Jacko.

Your record should speak for itself, without the need for reiteration.




Lucia.
 

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