Wall Mounted Flueless Gas Fire

Too often.

Whilst i accept i was not in full receipt of the correct information[post above] and this had somewhat turned me off flueless to the point i would not install them. i did fit one for a friend ,he had already brought it and dismissed my concerns.2weeks later i goes to visit him only to find the vent nearly blocked off,i freaked out, told him he had put his family at risk,anyway we removed and put in an electric fire.the strangest thing is that he has a precast flue.

oss";p="2023741 said:

Whilst i accept i was not in full receipt of the correct information[post above] and this had somewhat turned me off flueless to the point i would not install them. i did fit one for a friend ,he had already brought it and dismissed my concerns.2weeks later i goes to visit him only to find the vent nearly blocked off,i freaked out, told him he had put his family at risk,anyway we removed and put in an electric fire.the strangest thing is that he has a precast flue.[/quote]

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oss";p="2023741 said:

I come acros far more dangerous PC flued fires than anything else! A PC fire consuming 7Kw, with a flue blocked with cobwebs, and sometimes incorrect loft flue configuration is actually more hazordous than a FL with a partially blocked vent. A FL fire is a MAX of 3.5Kw, and mast are under 2.5Kw. Not that you mustn't be vigilant of course, but you don't need the vent for combustion purposes.

I recently serviced a gas fire fitted to a 9x9. It passed the spillage test, just, afetr 15 mins. but it was clearly not right. Got the flue swept, and it was a little better, but still not as strong as I would expect. I climbed the roof and removed the clay GC terminal, which was rammed full of cobwebs and spiders. I talked the client into just having a basic bird guard, and the flue then pulled like a train.

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I recently serviced a gas fire fitted to a 9x9. It passed the spillage test, just, afetr 15 mins. but it was clearly not right. Got the flue swept, and it was a little better, but still not as strong as I would expect. I climbed the roof and removed the clay GC terminal, which was rammed full of cobwebs and spiders. I talked the client into just having a bas
ic bird guard, and the flue then pulled like a train.[/quote]



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Thanks so much for your constructional comment. I think the RGI is fairly new but he assures me he has been gas passed and trading for 5 years.

Have you checked his card or registration, and does he have a ticket specifically for fires?

The fire has been tested for 3 years and found satisfactory, the flue on another fire was OK for 10 years before that. The wind had effected the readings previousely but after 10 mins was OK. The flue length was approx 9ft but is now extended by more than 3ft. and is now above the ridge line.
Wood a spinning cap be any good?
Thanks again Kev[/quote]
It MAY work, but why pay over £100, without conducting the basic tests and checks I outlined? Your RGI clearly DIDN'T conduct the test properly:

test was first completed, it was turned down upon second test (smoke match) because it was too hot to hold his hand near, he had to hold the match towards the side away from the centre radiants which were still alight:

(although I obvioulsy can't say oit should have passed). The checks I spoke of should really have been his next thoughts.

If the flue (asssuming it was propelry tested) has passed for years AND you have increased the height, then it follows that there has been a fundemental change in one or more condition.

Cobwebs DO appear overnight and they DO clog up flues.

Thanks again Gasman,
I have been blocked on my other account because I got into a stupid disagreement with an idiot on the site when he critised me for putting my tenants in danger, when there is no way I would ever do so.

Thanks for the information, my RGI didn't offer anything like this, I did check his card and all was in order, but I think the new way of taking only two years to become a qualified plumber plus however long/short to be a gas fitter has it's downfalls.
I am now having a new rain guard made, which is just a whitches hat instead of the flat topped, side slotted cover which it has at the moment. I will also have the flue pipe cleaned and have it re-checked with a different plumber.
I'll close now with a big thanks and wish you all the best for the future.
Thanks Kev

I just don't like the idea of sitting in a room where products of combustion treated with a catalyst or not are left to enter the room.

How about a nice electric fire I believe they do very good ones these days.

Or a nice DVD of a fireplace?

A blow heater?

expertgasman said:

First, be prepared for a deluge of dommsadyers. Most comments you will read are absolute nonsense, save for vents causing draughts. This can be minimised by careful selection and siting. We do a fair few and have had only a couple of comments rather than complaints.

BUT: Who is fitting the fire?

I am guessing that you have bought ot off the 'net, or a shed, without any advice. If you haven't yet purchased, then go and buy it from a proper shop, but remember that their free advice costs THEM money.

The galvanised pipe method of yours won't work, and we won't give GAS advice to DIYers.

The job has to be structured and planned, and will requitre at least 2 visits.

Don't forget the vent, and again advice is needed.

No, they don't normally need a hearth

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I agree entirel ! (fluless paranoi being the main bit ), eight burner ranges, all gas ranges 7 burners, all these deaths from fluless appliances to say nothing of the millions of fluless cabinet heaters that have been used for the last forty fifty years causing millions of more deaths ! yeah right !

We have one guy working out of scope, that didn't gas rate an appliance
and an unfortunate but avoidable fatality occured. I once fitted a brand new hob as soon as it was gassed up you could here it escaping !!!!

If its new I still check it thouroughly, and I always gas rate not pressure test although always take wp at meter.

my concern with flueless fires is that the MI (of the one we have in the centre for CPA1) says the cat will last for over 10,000 hrs of use which equates to normal use, who says 10,000 is normal and who monitors the use, do you put a wee calander on the wall for the punter to mark off each hour use, surely if the cat is safe for 10,000hrs a simple rundown clock assembly fitted to the gas supply via a solenoid would shut the gas off at 9999 then a new cat could be fitted. I cant get my head round them saying it will last for 10,000 but there is nothing to stop it being used after they say it might not be 100% safe

The main problem I see with flueless fires is the huge hole in the wall. If I look at the amount of blocked off back boiler vents I have seen, I wouldn't want to be there when HSE is investigating a CO incident on one of my fires.
With all the health and safety bolloks these days, it will be my fault for not making sure the user was convinced that he mustn't block the vent.

kirkgas said:

my concern with flueless fires is that the MI (of the one we have in the centre for CPA1) says the cat will last for over 10,000 hrs of use which equates to normal use, who says 10,000 is normal and who monitors the use, do you put a wee calander on the wall for the punter to mark off each hour use, surely if the cat is safe for 10,000hrs a simple rundown clock assembly fitted to the gas supply via a solenoid would shut the gas off at 9999 then a new cat could be fitted. I cant get my head round them saying it will last for 10,000 but there is nothing to stop it being used after they say it might not be 100% safe

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They will stop working when the ods lints up ....no question, the engineer should chek the conditon of the appliace then.........theres no way it will keep working to the end of the cat life without been checked !!!!!! on that basis I'm in !

bengasman said:

The main problem I see with flueless fires is the huge hole in the wall. If I look at the amount of blocked off back boiler vents I have seen, I wouldn't want to be there when HSE is investigating a CO incident on one of my fires.
With all the health and safety bolloks these days, it will be my fault for not making sure the user was convinced that he mustn't block the vent.

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Photograph the new vent with the sign on saying do not cover, do your own little form stating vent not to covered signed and dated by them copy for both, arse covered!!!!