Buidling Gym in my Garden

festive · 8 Mar 2008

Ive done a bit of research and designed the building and how i want it to look, but would appreciate some advice on my construction methods!
First of all as you can see below the base is 6.5 x 3.5 do i use concrete or timber, if i use timber how far apart should i space the supports, how deep in the ground, do i use concrete slabs in the base of the hole, cement round, or lay them on the surface on top of concrete.

A base this big is going to be heavy to lift its not like i can build it and lift across onto the supports, not unless i go the concrete route, which im guessing i lay it directly on top of some damp proof layer? If i use concrete how thick or deep should i go.

Many questions!!

Many thanks in advance.
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noseall · 8 Mar 2008

i would build a 'traditional' type base.

this would involve a strip foundation, brickwork up to 150mm above g.l., a membrane oversite and dpc.

you can then fix a sole plate and build up a timber frame flush off this base with any future cladding overhanging the base.

this will mean zero water penetration, a problem which effects raft bases that protrude beyond a structure and as a result, rainwater collects on the slab and penetrates into the building.

4x2" studs with ply sheathing at 400mm centres will be ok.

festive · 8 Mar 2008

Although i didnt mention brickwork because ive never actually built a decent brick wall in my life. Which is why i mentioned timber supports concreted into ground or concrete base.
Out of those which is better. And any tips/advice on either choice?

Thanks

Jasonb · 8 Mar 2008

Have a read of this current thread

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=125887

Jason

noseall · 8 Mar 2008

at least Jason confirms the best way to build a wooden structure.

a sound base above ground level will ensure a dry efficient building.

a typical section through the timber frame would be:

upvc or wood clad.

breathable membrane or felt

12.5mm ply sheathing

4x2 or similar studs

insulation between studs

polythene vapour barrier

plasterboard and final decoration

you can improve the insulation if you wish by fixing a more efficient rigid board insulation both between and across the studs prior to fitting the vaopour barrier and plasterboards.

Jasonb · 8 Mar 2008

Thats the way to do it

This guy knows how to do it as well, quite a decent set of photos of his garden room

Jason

festive · 13 Mar 2008

Ok i have been studying that thread and those pics are they yours JasonB? If mine comes out half as nice as that ill be a happy man.

Anyway, with ref to my drawings, ive now turned the floor joists 90 degress so they span the 3.5metre width instead of the other way. Anyone feel free to answer these!

1. For the outer frame i was going to use 7x3 and inner floor joists @ 7x2 spaced @ 400mm centers. Is that overkill or required. As im using this for weights and running treadmill i don't want too much bounce in the floor! Should or do you recommend a central 7x3 across supported with central footing with 1.5 metre 7x2 spanning between them instead?

2. Whats the min gap i should leave between ground and base, im just keen to keep the total height as low as possible.

4. Ive decided to add 1 concrete footing every 2 metres building on a 6m2 frame along the front and rear of the base. Is that enough, What's the dimensions of those concrete footings or what size should i make them? And what's the dia of those steel rods, planning on using 2 per footing and to use as my level as you suggested.

5. Was going to use some 12.5mm ply sheeting as casts for the footings made with 4/1 ballast/concrete with 2\x10mm steel rods as reinforcement and to use as markers.

6. To make sure my supports are level i saw that link to water level, see also theres many cheap laser levels on screwfix, do i use a spinning one or just a normal rotational, any good?

Thanks in advance for your patience and time.

Jasonb · 13 Mar 2008

Not one of mine but its done well.

1. Joist sizes should be OK, it may be as cheap to use two 7x2s as it is to buy a 7x3. and just bolt them together.

2. 100mm should be OK

4. If you are going for pad foundations I would cast in two stages, first a 600x600x150 pad 600mm below ground with the bars turned up and then cast a 300x300 column on top of that, does bepend on your soil conditions. I did this deck in a similar way, 750sq pad, 450x450 block column and then set the stones on that. Use R12 rebar or T12 may be as easy to get hold of, R is smooth, T s ribbed and high tensile

5. OK

6. Rotating or self leveling, the ones on the end of a spirit level are nly asgood as the bubble. In either case the cheaper lazers will not show up in daylight, waterevel will be easier, you can always make your own with a bit of clear tube/hose.

Please not I DID NOT do the block fundations for the baby barn with the deck pics.

Jason

festive · 26 Mar 2008

Ok off i went digging my holes etc and then i read this:

Bearing in mind the outbuilding (used as Gym and not for sleeping in) is 18sqm in size. And about .4 metres from boudary on 2 sides and my garden backs onto a gravel road which the council doesn't seem to know who owns it. Using the above do i need planning permission? And follow building regs.

Outbuildings
You will need to apply for planning permission if any of the following cases apply on the land around your house.

You want to put up a building or structure which would be nearer to any highway than the nearest part of the "original house", unless there would be at least 20 metres between the new building and any highway. The term "highway" includes public roads, footpaths, bridleways and byways.

Our garden backs onto a gravel type access road for houses behind ours, the council is not sure who owns it. Our perimeter fence backs onto this and the outbuilding is .4 metres (on the narrow 3.5metre side) backing onto this. DO i need planning permission.

Im confused though as my garden is about 20 metres and if its within 5 metres of the house its classed as an extension, it's a bit of a catch all condition?!?! Means id need about a 30metre garden to build a 5 metre building and even then it would only be 5 metres from the back of the house

I just need to get this right as im also awaiting planning permission for an extension and i don't want mister council man pulling it all down again.

Building Regulations

If the floor area of the building is between 15 square metres and 30 square metres, you will not normally be required to apply for building regulations approval providing that the building is either at least one metre from any boundary or it is constructed of substantially non-combustible materials.

In both cases, building regulations do not apply ONLY if the building does not contain any sleeping accommodation.

Seeing as im not using it to sleep in, does this mean i do not need to follow building regs then.

^woody^ · 26 Mar 2008

festive said:
Seeing as im not using it to sleep in, does this mean i do not need to follow building regs then.

Whether you sleep in it or not is irrelevant to whether b/regs apply - think kitchens, utility rooms, garages etc.

Its not a porch, not a conservatory so looks like it may be considered to be controlled work and require b/regs approval

festive · 26 Mar 2008

Going away from the main focus of planning permission, re building regs "

In both cases, building regulations do not apply ONLY if the building does not contain any sleeping accommodation. "

I take that to mean if the outbuilding had a bed or contained a bedroom, then non flammable materials etc.

Anyway what about the planning and this 20 meter clause?

festive · 12 May 2008

Ill post some pics later, but ive know finished my footings and built the base to my timber Gym. Im still feeling i would of been better off with a concrete base, surely digging a hole and filling it with concrete is easier and not so noisy? Anyway.

The timber yard supplied me sheets of WBP Ply for the flooring. My father in law reckons i should of used Marine, although it's not like it will be exposed to weather as it's sitting on top of 70mm Celotex and will be internal.

But anyway the timber yard suggested i seal all edges with PVA, but what about the underneath surface, still could suffer some moisture problems over the years, what should i coat this with?

Same question for the ply sheathing on the walls as well.

TIA.

usstr · 13 May 2008

Have you got your kit? If not what are you looking for?

Jasonb · 13 May 2008

If you only seal the underside of the Ply you will get an inbalance, moisture in the air will still enter via the top surface and cause cupping/bowing.

If you are having no other floor covering then a sheet of heavy duty polythene laid under the ply will act as a damp proof membrain.

Jason

festive · 14 May 2008

And the timber studs for the walls does that need to be tanalised as well..

wood clad.

breathable membrane or felt

12.5mm ply sheathing

4x2 or similar studs

insulation between studs

polythene vapour barrier

plasterboard and final decoration

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Buidling Gym in my Garden

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