Dimmer advice please.

E

EdwardCurrent

Hello All.
After failing to talk another 'homeowner' into not having downlighters I have come across a problem which I would like some advice on please.

7 X 50W GU10 fittings, (two-way switching).

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/48200...00VA-White;jsessionid=C15ZAKBYKBC0OCSTHZPCFFI
I fitted one of these only to have little or no response when bringing the lamps up to brightness, and when it does start to work the smooth dimming is overshadowed by the loud buzz :D !!!!
After buying it I noticed the lower rating :oops: , but thought that it would suffice :( .
However, am I right in thinking that because the rating is 75-800W that the lower range is not low enough ?
Would this do the job ??
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VL1000.html

How low do I need to go ? !!!!!! :LOL:

Sorry for the drawn out post.

Regards and thanks

Ed.
 
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Hi,
the rating of dimmer is max/min it should handle, since 7X50w = 350w it is slap in the middle of its range so should not be a problem.
Presuming these are 230volt lamps and not 12v via transformer(s), if so then transformer system needs special type of dimmer.
regards
 
:rolleyes: Thanks 'proper'.
Yes they are GU10 50W 230v Halogens.
The switch does not require de-rating but my concern is on the lower limit calculations on the 7 lights being lower than 75W ?????


Ed
 
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B-A-S, I was trying not to say that...
Eddy, (good handle that) you only rate the dimmer at full load not at what that might go down to when dimmed!
I think you don't understand the electronics of the switch, the full lamp rating of 350w is being controlled at all times, the dimmer cuts off part of each mains 1/2 cycle so reducing the total energy to the lamp thus making it appear dimmer,
if anything your switch is overated & you should fit the next size up from max load only, in this case 400w
BTW good on yer for trying to not fit goddam downlights, I won't-ever!!
regards
 
B-A-S, I was trying not to say that...
Eddy, (good handle that) you only rate the dimmer at full load not at what that might go down to when dimmed!
I think you don't understand the electronics of the switch, the full lamp rating of 350w is being controlled at all times, the dimmer cuts off part of each mains 1/2 cycle so reducing the total energy to the lamp thus making it appear dimmer,
if anything your switch is overated & you should fit the next size up from max load only, in this case 400w
BTW good on yer for trying to not fit goddam downlights, I won't-ever!!
regards

I wont either, they're horrible
 
:my concern is on the lower limit calculations on the 7 lights being lower than 75W ?????
What number system do you use where you end up with 7 x 50 < 75?
B-A-S, I was trying not to say that...
:confused:

I've had this one a loonng time ago, at school there were something like 5 rows of 18 lamps in the hall and we fitted each row with a dimmer of, say, 500-2000W. they kept blowing 5A fuses and this corresponded with the dimmers being fitted... oh and the lamps being uprated from 60W to 100W. The caretaker blamed the rating of 500 being higher than the individual lamps. The details are a bit vague in the grey cells but its somewhere near.
Of course the solution was easy, fit 10A fuses.
 
B-A-S, I was trying not to say that...
Eddy, (good handle that) you only rate the dimmer at full load not at what that might go down to when dimmed!
I think you don't understand the electronics of the switch, the full lamp rating of 350w is being controlled at all times, the dimmer cuts off part of each mains 1/2 cycle so reducing the total energy to the lamp thus making it appear dimmer,
if anything your switch is overated & you should fit the next size up from max load only, in this case 400w
BTW good on yer for trying to not fit goddam downlights, I won't-ever!!
regards

I wont either, they're horrible

I don't like brass sockets, but if a customer wants them, then that's what I fit.

Can you really afford to turn work away?
 
Was the caretaker a qualified electrician?
Good God no :LOL: not in 1970 he was about 80 and unable to climb ladders to change a lamp, but then neither was I when I was at school and installed the dimmers :) or wired up the stage lighting or installed the sound system....
Cheap labour eh ;)
 
RF yes I can & do refuse, 6 months on after fitting customer-supplied cheap rubbish fittings which give trouble, customer when asked by neighbours 'who fitted them' is he/she going to admit they supplied them?
so your reputation heads South!
Happily I have work, mainly non-domestic, booked till mid November, maybe because good reputation locally, only accept work in 15m radius,
don't advertise, plain van so no silly calls.
All work from other businesses & personal recommendation.
 
Personally I love fitting downlighters!!! Yes they are a PITA, all the measuring, cutting and dealing with hoods (if needed).

But I have a strict code, They say what finish they want, I supply.

If they want them dimming then they pay for a seriously good quality

dimmer no cheap tat!!

Give them a very good talking to about light quality and the importance of only using good quality kit and the amount of time required to do them.

Never had a single complaint (so far) and my wife rages to people about her 10 in the living room, which she rarely uses??!?!?!?!?!!??!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?
 
Personally I love fitting downlighters!!! Yes they are a PITA, all the measuring, cutting and dealing with hoods (if needed).

But I have a strict code, They say what finish they want, I supply.

If they want them dimming then they pay for a seriously good quality

dimmer no cheap tat!!

Give them a very good talking to about light quality and the importance of only using good quality kit and the amount of time required to do them.

Never had a single complaint (so far) and my wife rages to people about her 10 in the living room, which she rarely uses??!?!?!?!?!!??!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?

and why are they not used? Could it be the light they give out is ....
 

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