central heating prob

[G1zm0]

hi, i have a honywells heating/water controller , and a gravity fed cylinder,
when i select heating, the heating comes on, when i select hw only the heating comes on but no hotwater and turning down at theremostat does nothing,

so i think its the acl mid position valve, the lever on the side is stuck at the bottom and cant move.

on the lifestyle wiring panel theres a fused switch (like a storage heater one) and when i switch this off the controller switches off, so i think thats the spur?? and the switch on the mpv does reset to middle.

i know this is what happend before and bgas changed it for this one .

the acculator does remove from body but i havent did it yet, as i dont know if the powers defo off, i cant see it connecting to main fuse box.

to test it manually is the lever ment to move freely ?
or do i take top of with power on and try move the valve head by hand?

will it move easily.

its a 679h340 30l0 22mm

 

[D_Hailsham]

when i select heating, the heating comes on, when i select hw only the heating comes on but no hotwater and turning down at theremostat does nothing,

so i think its the acl mid position valve, the lever on the side is stuck at the bottom and cant move.

Firstly, is this a new problem; i.e it used to work correctly?

If all you can get is heating, it does sound as if the valve is stuck in the heating position.

on the lifestyle wiring panel theres a fused switch (like a storage heater one) and when i switch this off the controller switches off, so i think thats the spur?? and the switch on the mpv does reset to middle.

Is there a switch anywhere else, e.g near the boiler, which could control the system (there shouldn't be, but it's best to make sure)? If not the fused switch will control the system. If still unsure, remove the relevant fuse at the main fuse-board.

When you say the switch reset to the middle, do you mean the lever which can slide in a slot moves towards the Auto end?

to test it manually is the lever meant to move freely?

Here's how to test it.

Turn the power off at the spur (This resets the valve.)
The lever should now be at the Auto end of the slot.
Move the lever to the other end
You should feel some resistance as you are opening the valve against a spring

If the lever is floppy in the slot - no resistance - the valve is stuck open.

If so, remove the actuator.

Now try turning the valve spindle by hand. It should move easily, but only about a quarter circle or less. If it is very stiff, spray some WD40 or a silicon lubricant onto the spindle.

If you can't get the spindle to move easily, you can buy a Replacement Ball &'O' ring kit, Part no 272752A/U CARD.

Changing it will mean either draining down to below the valve or you can bung the F/E tank feed and vent pipes.

 

[G1zm0]

hi thanx for replay

the prob started about a month ago, hot water puts heating on and water is still cold,
i had same prob about 3 years ago and it was under a cover plan and the gas folk replaced a valve (prob old type without removable top) and they changed the thermostat in room.

the lever is stuck at the bottom of the accuator,

i dont know what fuse in box the heating goes to, its a old fuse type box with coloured fuses and no labels to say what each is for.

ive not reset the unit yet, the only thing i see is a switch on wall . wires come from the wiring box to it, all cables go under ground. when i switch the switch off it turns the heating controller off , the lcd goes blank but the lever still dont move.


what is the auto end ?

 

[D_Hailsham]

I think it's safe to assume that the switch on the wall turns the heating system off.

the lever is stuck at the bottom of the actuator

I assume you mean the lever in the slot. Is it stuck at the right hand end of the slot? If so try pulling the lever out as it may have been pushed in, which locks it in place.

If that doesn't work, try following my earlier instructions

what is the auto end ?

Sorry, the Drayton valve is not marked. It's the left hand end of the slot. The lever should be at that end when the power is off.

You remove the actuator by pushing in the button on the side (not the one labelled HMW) and lifting up.

 

[G1zm0]

thanx for replay

the only button i can see on the actuator is at the bottom of it, a black button, not tried it yet .

the lever is in the down position , so i hope this is one that comes off, its a lifestyle on.

 

[D_Hailsham]

the only button i can see on the actuator is at the bottom of it, a black button, not tried it yet .

the lever is in the down position , so i hope this is one that comes off, its a lifestyle on.

Lifestyle valves are the older version of the Drayton, so the actuator may not be removable.

You don't appear to have carried out the tests I gave, which don't require you to remove the actuator.

Why not???

 

[Agile]

Lifestyle valves are the older version of the Drayton, so the actuator may not be removable.

Are you quite sure about that?

I bought some recently.

Tony

 

[D_Hailsham]

Lifestyle valves are the older version of the Drayton, so the actuator may not be removable.

Are you quite sure about that? I bought some recently.

Your quite right. I was thinking of the earlier ACL Lifestyle valve.

 

[G1zm0]

hi, sorry for delay, the lever that says w m h just stays in the h position when moved, so took cover off and tryed again, just stays there, its not a removable body,

and switching off doesnt mmake the lever easyeer to move, maby a stuck valve or motor ??

when heating ect is engaged the pump starts ok

 

[D_Hailsham]

hi, sorry for delay, i tried switching it off and the bottom switch moves freelay when on or off (the one at the side that has h hw/ch ch) marked on it just stays at the bottom position, it wont move up or down

I assume you mean the lever in the slot when you say the "bottom" switch.

If that is permanently free (no resistance when you move it), the valve is stuck in the CH only position.

Is there a button on the side of the box - opposite side to the H M W indicator? If so, press it in and you will be able to remove the box and test the valve spindle. If there's no button you can try undoing the screw, which releases the cover. Then put some WD40 or a silicon lubricant onto the valve spindle and try moving the lever.

 

[G1zm0]

there is resistance when i move it (it is a top to bottom lever), its stuck on h,

the valves not removable as i dont seee any other buttons.

would this valve be a direct replacement for it Drayton MA1/679-3 3?


is there any other tests i can try , or would u think its defo the valve



updaste> sprayed wd behind the motor and still stuck, theres no button at ather side of the housing ,

 

[D_Hailsham]

there is resistance when i move it (it is a top to bottom lever), its stuck on h,

OK so the valve is turned on its side. Can you hear anything moving (a whirring sound) when you move the lever across the slot and then let go? If so the valve is working - opening and closing - but something is holding it in the CH position.

However I think it's probably better to cut your losses and fit a new valve. The Honeywell V4073 is better than the Drayton.

 

[G1zm0]

thanx for the reply, i dont hear a thing , with it turned on or off, and i cant move the lever at all, its stuck fast ai take it the valve u mentioned

would be a direct replacement, just unscrew the old and fit new valve. has it the same wiring, as the wiring that goes to the junction box is not labled


i need to figure out where the drain valve is for the system,

 

[G1zm0]

just saw a HONEYWELL Y PLAN KIT.V4073



COMPRISING OF 1 x 1039/4073 22mm 3 PORT VALVE

1x ST9400C 7 DAY PROGRAMMER

(new type larger digital screen)

1 X T6360 ROOM STAT

1 X L641A CYLINDER STAT

HONEYWELL10 WAY WIRING CENTRE


is this just a matter of wiring it up and changing the parts over?

maby should just get the valve and sort that 1st lol , only thing is as i said the junction box has no legend to tell where stuff goes or what they are.

prob just need trace wires

 

[DP]

hi, i have a honywells heating/water controller , and a gravity fed cylinder

so i think its the acl mid position valve, the lever on the side is stuck at the bottom and cant move.

Above do not make sense. How can you have a midposition valve on a gravity HW system?

Surely if the valve was stuck in CH position, the boiler would be running 24/7 (auxillary switch on MV operated)