Best way to secure studwork to concrete floor

Joined
1 Dec 2011
Messages
147
Reaction score
2
Location
Surrey
Country
United Kingdom
I have a concrete floor and I want to put up some stud partitions. I would like to avoid screwing the sole plate into the concrete.

One option I was think of was to lay timber joists with 18mm T&G chipboard as a floating floor and then nail the studwork into that.

Another option I saw was to somehow "glue" the sole plate to the concrete with resin I presume.

I'd appreciate some pointers.
 
Sponsored Links
Screwed or nailed with a cartridge gun to concrete - best to screw to timber/flooring to avoids creaking/squeaking.

Steve

p.s. why do you want to avoid screwing into the concrete?
 
I wouldn't recommend building a stud wall off a "Floating" floor. If the floor did move at all, then the stud wall is going to move as well . ;) ;)
 
Screwed or nailed with a cartridge gun to concrete - best to screw to timber/flooring to avoids creaking/squeaking.

Steve

p.s. why do you want to avoid screwing into the concrete?

We had a bit of damp and I thought screwing it direct into the concrete would be asking for trouble as the screws would go through any damp proof membrane, somewhat rending it pointless.

I also assumed I'd need more expensive timber that way, less susceptible to moisture etc.
 
Sponsored Links
I wouldn't recommend building a stud wall off a "Floating" floor. If the floor did move at all, then the stud wall is going to move as well . ;) ;)

I'd sort of envisaged the locking of the flooring to walls, all tied in as being quite tight. Also, the property is built of massive stones, hardly likely, in my humble opinion, to be moving anywhere soon.

I guess though that the idea came out of necessity rather than practicality, hence my looking for advice.

You can sometimes be too close to the issue to see obvious flaws etc.
 
But you simply can't lock the floor tight to the walls. You need about 3/4" (19mm) all the way round to allow for expansion of the flooring. ;) ;)
 
If you are really bothered about damp coming throuigh the concrete floor (doesn't it have a DPM in it?) then consider either using tanalised CLS as your sole plate (what we use in old buildings) or even put a plastic (Visqueen) DPM beneath the soleplate
 
But you simply can't lock the floor tight to the walls. You need about 3/4" (19mm) all the way round to allow for expansion of the flooring. ;) ;)

I read and heard about all this expansion thing years ago before I put down my first hardwood floor and you know what, I've never seen a floor move without water ingress. Maybe one millimetre that you cannot see but seriously, I've put down half a dozen and lived with them for two decades in multiple properties in varying climates and on different continents.

I'm not saying floors don't move. I had one blow up when it took in water. But in a reasonably regulated temperature with barrier protection, I'll back it not moving any material distance.
 
If you are really bothered about damp coming throuigh the concrete floor (doesn't it have a DPM in it?) then consider either using tanalised CLM as your sole plate (what we use in old buildings) or even put a plastic (Visqueen) DPM beneath the soleplate

No, no DPM. As far as I can ascertain, concrete laid over 200+ year old stone / rubble and then fairly recently (and poorly) sealed with some plastic wash on sealant. Not level enough as well really if the truth be told, also easier to deal with under a floating floor.

I intend to put a DPM down anyway and the treated timber seems a good idea. My concern is that if I puncture the DMP by screwing the sole plate to the concrete, won't that be a problem ?
 
My concern is that if I puncture the DMP by screwing the sole plate to the concrete, won't that be a problem ?

It's a common misconception that screwing through to the floor will lead to dampness

Research has proved that if you put a DPC under the sole plate and then screw through with normal fixings (ie plastic frame fixings) then there wont be an issue with damp getting up through the fixings.
 
It's a common misconception that screwing through to the floor will lead to dampness

Research has proved that if you put a DPC under the sole plate and then screw through with normal fixings (ie plastic frame fixings) then there wont be an issue with damp getting up through the fixings.

That's why I'm looking for advice.

What would you use to secure the sole plate then ? The easier the better please.
 
how thick is the concrete?

The fixing really only needs to resist shear (sideways movement) as the wall is unlikely to recieve any upwards stresses. Bearing this in mind you could drill through the sole into the concrete but only far enough to set some studs with epoxy resin. When the resin is dry you can spin a nut on and tighten it up. Even just 30mm will be plenty provided the stud is a tight fit in the hole and you clean out the dust before using the resin.
 
It's a common misconception that screwing through to the floor will lead to dampness

Research has proved that if you put a DPC under the sole plate and then screw through with normal fixings (ie plastic frame fixings) then there wont be an issue with damp getting up through the fixings.

That's why I'm looking for advice.

What would you use to secure the sole plate then ? The easier the better please.

If there's a screed, the easiest method is to use masonary nails. No screed, just concrete, then screw and plug. Personally I would use dpc under the plate.

Steve
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top