Decent outdoor socket?

I'm not 100% sure the downstairs ring (which I assume is where the qualified person would take the feed from) is RCD protected,
It really should be.


however even if it is I'd rather have a seperate RCD on the outdoor socket simply because that's more likely to trip (for example when the hedge cutters go through their cable)
No it isn't, I'm afraid.

Plus hedgecutters have 2-core cables, so unless the severed end comes into contact with an earth then no RCD will trip.
 
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Yes. Everything to the left of rcd is protected. Nice hager/Schneider cocktail.Are the Schneider ones c curve?
 
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The guy I bought from had that put in by his company electrician about 9 years ago..

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Mind you, there are a few questionable bits such as the 3 JBs here under the floor which I think were done to feed sockets in the conservatory

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plus this one which I may investigate further, at first glance it seems to be a spur into a jb which then feeds a socket and the thicker white cable I assume feeds the electric fire (the top white cable is an aerial). May investigated the socket to find out if it could be on the ring..

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Yes it's messy alright. You should get some prices to get those orange breakers swapped though. They are not suitable for your installation, especially with all those junctions of junctions.
 
Yes it's messy alright. You should get some prices to get those orange breakers swapped though. They are not suitable for your installation, especially with all those junctions of junctions.
will look into that thanks, out of interest what's wrong with the orange breakers? I assume it's not just a matter of buying new ones and replacing them?
 
They are c curve. Which means they will carry a higher current for longer before operating. You would mainly find them in heavy industry supplying large motors.
Not to mention they are wrong manufacturer for that board. Doesnt bother some people. Bothers me. They are top notch quality wise. No good for you though.
 
i remember the previous owner mentioned something about a seperate circuit for the 2 fridge freezers as he was a bit paranoid about both kicking in at the same time and tripping the breaker
 
Ok thanks, googleing results seem to suggest some people think C's are ok, some don't :S I might get someone it to check it out at some point. The wiki mentions if I have TN-C-S C's may just be ok, how do I tell if I have that?

Just looked in the meter box and noticed that the 100Amp DNO fuse stickers have been broken - assume that means someone pulled the fuse at some point? The meter seals are intact though,

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The wiki mentions if I have TN-C-S C's may just be ok, how do I tell if I have that?

Looks like a TN-C-S is what you have.
However c curve breakers to protect a domestic ring main is not 'ok'. Especially (forgive me for this) your nasty wiring set up.

Really get someone round. Well not just someone. An electrician.

If the work was done 9 years ago your electrics could do with its 'M.O.T'. Get a electrical condition report done. You will get a full check over and a set of test results and a sheet of what needs doing to make everything fully compliant.
You never know those c breakers might just be 'ok'.





(they won't :cry: )
 
However c curve breakers to protect a domestic ring main is not 'ok'.
Why? Max Zs is 0.75.
Where do you get that figure from?

Given that (32*10)/230=~0.72, I would have thought that the max Zs for a C32 would be about 0.72Ω - but, for some reason I've yet to work out, the OSG gives the max Ze for a C32 as 0.58Ω. I'm a bit confused.

Kind Regards, John.
 

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