Can i check with you folks whether i got it right? Currently my lamp is connected in a parallel circuit. To dim it I should 1. isolate the circuit;Series connections of two identical lamps is a relatively simple way to dim a pair of lamps. They operate at approx 1/4 power and give a very warm glow
My light bulb is 40W. What auto transformer do I need to reduce brightness by 60%? I would appreciate if you can post a link to a good quality transformer that I could buy. It wont fit in the backbox so can I place the transformer in the ceiling cavity?The auto transformer is really the only way not producing massive amount of heat and clearly will not fit in a standard switch back box
bernardgreen";p="2992390 said:VA rating of the transformer must be at least twice that of the lamp.
Not so. The lamp at half voltage would take quarter power if filament resistance didn't change. It will of course so lamp will take a little more than quarter but less than half power. There is no need for the transformer VA rating to be more than half that of the lamp.
Let's say 40 watt lamp would take 166mA on 240V. On 120v let's say 100mA. When connected to the tap 50mA will flow from the 240V end and another 50mA from the 0V end which will add in the lamp. Total VA for transformer equals 240x50/1000=12.
Thanks! what is a CLS lamp? I googled it but I'm still not sure which lamp i need.What is above the ceiling from which the pendant drops? Is it possible to fit a well ventilated box above the ceiling? Easy in a bungalow, but feasible if a good clearance between ceiling and floor if this is a g/f room. Into the box fit a CLS 40W lamp and thence to the pendant in series. The ventilation would need to remove 20W + safety factor as heat.
I cannot recall the equations.
The energy supplied to the lamp comes from half the winding.
I got the light bulb for effect. I think it looks beutiful but it may not float your boat. Can't argue about taste, or can you?!What I find amazing is that anyone one spend £21.60 on an inefficient incandescent light bulb.
Silver Rock Signature Knob $480.00
>
> Good vibrations, Bad vibrations it?s all about vibrations!! RAM would like
> to introduce a new signature level knob developed for the mighty Silver
> Rock potentiometer. The standard bakelite knob is certainly the best
> sounding compromise... but now Audio Consulting has taken this aspect of
> the Silver Rock much further. The new knobs are custom made with beech
> wood and bronze where the bronze is used as the insert to mount to the
> stem of the volume pot. The beech wood is coated several times with C37
> lacquer for best sound as pointed out by Dieter Ennemoser. How can this
> make a difference??? Well, hearing is believing as we always say. The
> sound becomes much more open and free flowing with a nice improvement in
> resolution. Dynamics are better and overall naturalness is improved. Here
> is a test for all you Silver Rock owners. Try removing the bakelite knobs
> and listen. You will be shocked by this! The signature knobs will have an
> even greater effect?really amazing! The point here is the micro vibrations
> created by the volume pots and knobs find their way into the delicate
> signal path and cause degradation (Bad vibrations equal bad sound). With
> the signature knobs micro vibrations from the C37 concept of wood, bronze
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>
> Knobs can easily be installed on all versions of the Silver Rock potentiometer.
>
>
I noted that on that website, a 0.5 ounce of "C37" lacquer sells for $60.
Here's the C37 "theory":
http://www.ennemoser.com/c37theory.html
Especially striking is the inventor's claim: "All attempts by science to
explain the secrets of the character of sound have so far been unsuccesful".
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