moving inside socket outside

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my kitchen has been rewired and new kitchen more or less installed now. They have left an old single socket that is not being used and is behind the base units so of no use to anybody (it is still live). I was thinking about using the wiring to have an outside socket on the other side of the wall - is this reasonable/allowed? It is on a ring but having just removed the socket to see what's inside the earth is not connected to the socket, just the backbox...

socket.jpg


Not sure why the earth wouldn't be connected - surely not just because there is no screw the terminal?? I wouldn't have thought earthing via the screws was sufficient.

Anyway, Could I remove the socket, use some choc block to spur off this junction in the ring and send the cable through the wall to an external socket, cover with a blank plate? OK, I know I can do anything :D, but it is a reasonable course of action?

When the final bit of kitchen is installed, this junction will not be easily accessible.
 
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Not sure why the earth wouldn't be connected - surely not just because there is no screw the terminal??
Not just because of that.

It's not connected because of that AND because the person who did it was a lazy, dangerous, incompetent buffoon who couldn't be *rsed to do the job properly and get a new socket. Not much of a "rewire". Have you paid them yet?


I wouldn't have thought earthing via the screws was sufficient.
It's a bit iffy.

Anyway, Could I remove the socket, use some choc block to spur off this junction in the ring and send the cable through the wall to an external socket, cover with a blank plate? OK, I know I can do anything :D, but it is a reasonable course of action?

When the final bit of kitchen is installed, this junction will not be easily accessible.
You should use a maintenance-free junction box, such as the Ashley J803.

But the problem with doing it like this is that if any water gets into the outside socket it could trip the RCD (the circuit does have an RCD, right?). Ideally you should have a means of DP isolation for the socket. You could run a cable up to a switch above the worktop and then back down to the socket.
 
Not just because of that.

It's not connected because of that AND because the person who did it was a lazy, dangerous, incompetent buffoon who couldn't be *rsed to do the job properly and get a new socket. Not much of a "rewire". Have you paid them yet?

I'm fairly sure the guys that did my rewire didn't actually touch this socket - it was an existing socket they just haven't removed. (to be fair I didn't ask them to remove it)
 
you ay be better to ask
"can I make use of the existing cable to relocate a socket outside"

ie remove some of the wall to allow decent access to the cable and add new to supply a weatherproof socket,
either crimping the connections (?) or leaving an access point for inspection
 
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Tiger - apart from the choc block/MF JB/crimp facet, that's what he proposed:

Could I remove the socket, use some choc block to spur off this junction in the ring and send the cable through the wall to an external socket

Not sure what point you're trying to make....
 
Rewire....... using red and black stranded cable......

I'm fairly sure the guys that did my rewire didn't actually touch this socket

They didn't rewire it.......

Anyway to answer your question. As mentioned already damp / rain into the outside socket could result in the RCD tripping and turning off the sockets in the kitchen and all other circuits the RCD protects. (*) Hence fitting a double pole fused switch in place of the socket and feeding the outside socket from that switch is the best option. (1) it will provide a way to isolate the wet outside socket and (2) prevent the socket being used by others without your permission.

(*) if the "quality" of the "re-wire" is that poor then you may not have an RCD in the consumer unit ( fuse box )
 
they did rewire most of the kitchen though :D The consumer unit is modern with RCD

I saw the first fix which was all new cables to every other socket, existing locations and new additions - I am not sure why they didn't touch this socket. (probably because it wasn't on "the plan" and I never talked to them about it)

Anyway, I replaced the socket with a new DP switch feeding a new waterproof external socket on the other side of the wall.


thanks :)
 
But when the final bit of kitchen is installed, that switch will not be easily accessible.

Also the terminals will be carrying the socket circuit current - are they rated for that?
 
I will cut an access hole in the side of the base unit that will cover it up.

I used a 45A DP switch
 
That generation of MK Logic was, IIRC, launched in 1974.
 
how did you deal with the lack of earth connection, and ensure it was in fact functional when relocated?
 

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