Heating will not switch off

[cwhaley]

I have a Main Combi Eco 25 boiler and a Salus RT501RD(TX) room timer. I've just had the boiler serviced and as part of that service had a new diverter valve and actuator motor put on. The reason for this being that the valve was stuck in the mid-position.

I now have a new problem. Despite what the room timer says, the boiler is constantly providing hot water to the radiators and the green light for them will be on. I have switched the timer down to 5 degrees, it does not indicate it is sending the signal for heating but despite it being 23 degrees inside the boiler is still heating the radiators.

There are only two ways I can switch the heating off. I can switch the manual dial on the boiler to hot water only or I can break the link between the room timer and the boiler. If the timer is linked to the boiler the heating will be on. I have reset the timer twice and have reset the boiler 5 times.

The timer is linked wirelessly to the boiler. It had been working for two years before this so I am frustrated, poor and have no way of timing the heating.

I have attached a picture showing the front of the boiler. The switch on the far right is used to connect or disconnect the timer and in the picture is to the LEFT for OFF. If I switch it to the right it will fire the heating up.

Can someone help? I can't afford to pay any more money out.

 

[Newboy]

Get the service company back to correct what sounds like incorrect wiring with the diverter head

 

[cwhaley]

Get the service company back to correct what sounds like incorrect wiring with the diverter head

Thanks for the heads up. There's just two push-fit connectors to it from the PCB and they're size-specific so I can't see what would have gone wrong. I'll mention it though when we get him back.

 

[Newboy]

Or the stat isn't communicating with the boiler controls.

 

[JohnD]

wireless?

Have you changed the batteries?

 

[cwhaley]

wireless?

Have you changed the batteries?

It is easy to overlook the simple things although I did change them yes. There was no 'battery low' warning and up until 2 days ago it was working fine.

I prefer the wireless option as it's not fixed to one room its whole life.

 

[cwhaley]

Or the stat isn't communicating with the boiler controls.

That was my initial thought. Earlier this afternoon I disconnected and re-connected the plugs to diverter valve. I then switched the timer communication switch to the right (so it was back on) and the heating didn't come on as it was doing. "Great!", I thought -- it just needed a 'jiggle' on the connections.

I sent the request for heating from the timer, the boiler kicked in and started heating the radiators (so the communication is there). I then told the timer to stop the heating, the screen then acknowledged this but the boiler kept running. I left it ten minutes and the boiler was still sending hot water to the radiator and still firing intermittently. I just switched the link off and was back to square one.

 

[cwhaley]

For a bit of closure on this, I managed to sort the problem. The receiver was set to “auto” mode but was still firing continuously as mentioned above.

What’s not obvious on the receiver (especially without the manual) is the unmarked sync button underneath the LED. After leaving them (sender and receiver) powered down a few minutes and then syncing them, operations were back to normal.

If anyone Googles this and has the similar issue, try resyncing and making sure the switch on the receiver is set to AUTO and not MANUAL.

 

[AGAS]

Get the service company back to correct what sounds like incorrect wiring with the diverter head

Really!!??????

 

[ianmcd]

when your service engineer was working on your boiler it sounds as if he/she turned the power off at the fused spur (correctly so) and when that happens you need to rebind the wireless controls when the power is restored

 

[cwhaley]

Yes this boiler is on a fused spur and all was switched off. Nothing was said about resyncing to me.

Nothing wrong with the wiring. As I said before it’s only two push-fit connectors.

 

[ianmcd]

They are very easy to rebind there are a few videos on youtube