Architrave beartrap

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Little conundrum here.

2 doors next to each other (well about 300mm between but near enough). One door opens inwards into the room, the other opens outwards (into the ensuite). Doors are the same height but of course the door linings are different heights on the underside of the top rail (due to inward/outward opening difference). Which means if I fit the architrave the usual 8mm or so away from the door, the top architraves will be parallel but one 20mm higher than the other (door linings had to be very wide so they're made of 19 x 200 PSE with the rebates 19 x 160 PSE. Bit chunky I know but there we go).

The obvious (with hindsight) solution was to have the door into the ensuite 20mm higher than the door into the bedroom (you can't see both doors from the other side so height difference won't matter). Too late for that though.....

Current plan- the architrave I'm using is 68 x 19 Ogee, it has quite a wide flat on the outside edge. So plan is to rip 5m down by 16mm- this will leave some flat on the outside edge- and fit at 6mm on the inward opening door. Then fit full width to the outward opening door at about 2mm (exact position depending on where the straight line ends up) to make the tops of the architraves parallel and level.

Is there a better bodge, have I missed something blatant?
 
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Don’t understand archrave height is not affect by which way door opens , so should be the same
 
Don’t understand archrave height is not affect by which way door opens , so should be the same
The thickness of the door frame is affected though, wouldn't matter except the doors are next to each other. I mocked up a bodge (1 door with architrave pretty much at the inside edge of the frame, the other door with 20mm between inside edge and architrave. Looked odd.....
 
If it's just the top of the arch that you want level, you could get a piece of the matching skirting, and rip it down to have a 20mm wider flat.

I think I might have gone for the higher doorway.
 
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If it's just the top of the arch that you want level, you could get a piece of the matching skirting, and rip it down to have a 20mm wider flat.

I think I might have gone for the higher doorway.
Next time i will, too late for this one (door and frame in and stained, walls skimmed, major mess to change that now). My bodge is your idea in reverse- use the 68mm architrave on the out door, use 68 machined down to 48mm for the in door- there's about 30mm of flat on it so think it'll look OK
 
Why not split the difference? Might look less obvious.

Of course unless you use the same width for the sides, you will need other than a 45 degree cut at the corners
 
Why not split the difference? Might look less obvious.

Of course unless you use the same width for the sides, you will need other than a 45 degree cut at the corners
Might try that, i'd trimmed 10m of the 68 down to 55 anyway (didn't like the excess flat), another merchant has 68 with more profile and less flat so will have a look. And lol with the not 45 degree cuts, if it was plain or chamfered i'd chance it :).
PS Think my mitre saw is fubar, had to redo the alleged 45 degree cuts with the router and edge :)
 
What does this have to do with a bear trap?

It's an old saying. When you have to open and close different doors to get access to somewhere/something it's referred to as a bear trap as early ways of trapping wild bears used similar methods. Inquisitive bear goes through a barrier only to find another one set at an angle, goes through 2nd barrier and finds another one, but because he can smell food he becomes persistent in order to find it. Trapper then simply secures the barriers trapping the bear without killing it.
 
Hiya Conny I'm curious about this Bear Trap.
So, if this Trapper doesn't want to kill the Bear, does that mean he's got to get into the Trap and wrestle it to get the skin and fur off it in order to make a living?
No wonder they called it the Wild West, those Bears must've been Livid!
 

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