Intergas boiler

[Tadlad]

hi, I've just had an Intergas Xtreme 30 installed and a combi system created replacing a 26 year old glo-worm open vented cylinder CH system. Just had it a week and it is controlled by a Nest e Thermostat. The hot water output is brilliant and the boiler is quiet and easy to operated if you can remember which icon to press. When it was first hung on the wall and was not connected up it was dripping water from one of the pipes so I think it was condensing even then. I am glad I went for the Xtreme over the life time of the boiler it should pay for itself. Can't wait to see what effect it has on my gas bill. The installer did a great job at a great price. He also does Baxi but fits hardly any of them now just mainly Intergas.

 

[bernardgreen]

When it was first hung on the wall and was not connected up it was dripping water from one of the pipes so I think it was condensing even then.

So was it fired up before the installation was completed ?

Or maybe the installer had just put too much water into the condensate trap.

 

[ianmcd]

Well some don't have all of that but have the plate and diverter valve which are important for safety

Wrong yet again Bennyboy, the plate and Divertor have diddlysquat to do with safety, indeed the early Vokera Mynte 28E was a Linea combi boiler with the Divertor and plate removed from the hydraulics to make it a system boiler

 

[bernardgreen]

Ian seems to have got it wrong. Quotes Vulcan but attributes it to me....

mcd = millicandela... a very dim brightness

 

[hard-work]

When it was first hung on the wall and was not connected up it was dripping water from one of the pipes so I think it was condensing even then.

That would be water from the factory testing process.

 

[vulcancontinental]

Wrong yet again Bennyboy, the plate and Divertor have diddlysquat to do with safety, indeed the early Vokera Mynte 28E was a Linea combi boiler with the Divertor and plate removed from the hydraulics to make it a system boiler

Actually it's me that mentions safety Ian; without the plate the parallel DHW circuit in a bi-thermal hex combi can be at the temperature of the heating circuit and that was the case with our earlier bi-thermal combi's which I think wasn't great and one of the reasons we stopped.

A plate with thermistor on primary flow and DHW outlet is predictive and the DHW selector cannot be set above 60 degrees.

With a bithermic exchanger the thermistors are reactive so if the heating circuit is at a high temperature and a dangerous level to human tissue all the boiler controls can do is hold off firing when a tap is opened until the DHW circuit cools and of course the longer the DHW circuit through the hex the more hotter water will pass through the tap before cooling to a safer temperature.

The Intergas boiler heating selectors come set at I think 65 I think but eco wrote the other day they can be altered to 90 degrees. It takes less than one second for an adult to receive a 3rd degree burn when in contact with water at 70 degrees never mind 90 degrees.

This isn't a problem for the Intergas fans who know how to install the boiler but it's something I personally would avoid, especially with children in the house. I stopped using the old Glow-Worm Hot Water Express which had a bithermic exchanger and there was far less water in that DHW circuit than in the IG.

The change in the EU's Gas Appliance Directive to the new Gas Appliance Regulation may affect things I don't know.

 

[Tadlad]

So was it fired up before the installation was completed ?

Or maybe the installer had just put too much water into the condensate trap.

No just hung on the wall not connected to anything not fired up. I doubt its water from factory testing as wouldn't it have come out sooner when it was in the box. Who cares anyway its a brilliant piece of kit. Hot water set at 65 Degrees and warms up gently with the eco function off that preheats the exchanger. I must remember to stop my 3 year old grandson from doing the washing up so he can't get a third degree burn tho!

 

[ianmcd]

you mean you have a boiler boiler with water and nicht pipen ?? was is das, Intergas ?? surely this mist be a Navien , no moving parts and dont need a gas supply but produce electricery ??? Me needs one of these

 

[Tadlad]

you mean you have a boiler boiler with water and nicht pipen ?? was is das, Intergas ?? surely this mist be a Navien , no moving parts and dont need a gas supply but produce electricery ??? Me needs one of these

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/intergas-boiler.521289/page-3#ixzz5maWfnyVQ

A sad case of Solvent Weld addiction.

The OP was asking about recommendations from Intergas installers. I went on the Intergas website to find accredited installers and there are many around where I live near Leeds. I talked to about 4 installers and they all said Intergas boilers were the best in the market.

 

[hard-work]

The Intergas boiler heating selectors come set at I think 65 I think but eco wrote the other day they can be altered to 90 degrees. It takes less than one second for an adult to receive a 3rd degree burn when in contact with water at 70 degrees never mind 90 degrees.

Most do not have the heating side of their combis set to high temperatures. Using the weather compensation setting it can be set to a max of 60-65C anyhow. Most are set to about 60C anyhow. When fitting a new system calculate the rads to operate on 60C maximum temp, not 80C as in the olden dayes. This promotes efficient condensing operation saving money in gas bills and saving the planet as well.


If the DHW temperature bothers you, you can also fit a blending valve on the outlet. Cheap and simple. To dismiss a reliable boiler on your reservations is well....er...er...er....

 

[hard-work]

No just hung on the wall not connected to anything not fired up. I doubt its water from factory testing as wouldn't it have come out sooner when it was in the box.

They put plastic bungs in the pipes.

 

[hard-work]

you mean you have a boiler boiler with water and nicht pipen ?? was is das, Intergas ?? surely this mist be a Navien , no moving parts and dont need a gas supply but produce electricery ??? Me needs one of these

So do I.

 

[vulcancontinental]

Most do not have the heating side of their combis set to high temperatures. Using the weather compensation setting it can be set to a max of 60-65C anyhow. Most are set to about 60C anyhow. When fitting a new system calculate the rads to operate on 60C maximum temp, not 80C as in the olden dayes. This promotes efficient condensing operation saving money in gas bills and saving the planet as well.


If the DHW temperature bothers you, you can also fit a blending valve on the outlet. Cheap and simple. To dismiss a reliable boiler on your reservations is well....er...er...er....

er...er...er a bit like dismissing a boiler because of a diverter valve that might go wrong or an automatic air vent? Or a cast iron OF boiler that is incredibly reliable but works at 50% efficiency? I dismiss it not because of reliability but safety.

I used bithermic heat exchanger boilers many times in the past and have seen the possibilities.

The thing is most boilers are installed into existing systems where the rads were designed for their certified temperature flow in of 75 degrees not 80. If the weather is extreme then that temperature is what the radiators will require to heat the property (many new build rads are sized to minimum also and most of those systems are certainly not weather comped even now).

If the heating system requires water at high temperature to keep the customer warm that is what it will be set to then you have the domestic hot water circuit at whatever temp the boiler stat is set to, there's a comparatively large quantity of it in the IG and it can be set to 90 degrees!!

A blending valve is not particularly cheap, certainly not low maintenance and adds rather to the number of moving parts.

The boiler has merits and is loved by many who know how to fit them, it will not always be nor operated by those who do not understand the possibilities.

Still the change from GAD to GAR last year will protect the installer giving separation between yourself and the customer if heaven forbid an untoward incident occurred. With the Directive the installers responsibility was to choose and install an appliance that could not endanger the end user by adjustment either deliberate or accidental. The GAR now places the responsibility for the same criteria on the manufacturer who must not place into the market in the EU any gas appliance that can be configured either deliberately or inadvertently to endanger the user. As this depends on the manufacturer's own risk assessment IG say it's an acceptable risk, I have a different opinion. I enjoyed your comment 'most users do not have the setpoint at a high level' these are not the people who are the concern.

There are installers who I respect enormously who fit almost nothing but IG and I have recommended old customers of mine to them knowing the boiler will be installed and the user instructed in the use. The electronics and control possibilities I'm told are exceptional but I would not want one in my own or a family members house particularly if children are present.

As for saving the planet, get real.

Tadlad's earlier post regarding hot water temperature control shows he does not understand the relevance.

 

[Razor900]

They put plastic bungs in the pipes.

No they don't

 

[Tadlad]

Tadlad's earlier post regarding hot water temperature control shows he does not understand the relevance.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/intergas-boiler.521289/page-3#ixzz5mhIG5217

OMG you are conflating a problem with Intergas Boilers and some scenario that a jet of boiling water scalds some kid. I am not an installer I actually work at the sharp end of the NHS and I have never seen a central heating boiler related burn ever. Seen plenty of other ways kids have been hurt tho. Not heard of it in my extensive research either. By your logic any boiler is a deathtrap to some unsuspecting child.