230 volt 5 amp relay in box what options.

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I was talking to a heating guy yesterday who was talking about using a motorised valve head as a relay, mainly as it's self contained so does not need a box, this seems daft to me, but I look at my junk box and yes I have a number of valve base relays with din rail bases but then I need a box to put them in, and they are so high it needs most adaptable boxes end up being far two big.

I want the supply to a central heating pump to also power the central heating, but the central heating must not power the pump, so triple and earth between the wiring centre and a relay, rather simple, but all the relays I am finding need a box, sure there must be a simple way?
 
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You would think so, but I've yet to find one......maybe there's a gap in the market.

Normally I use a miniature power relay. Something like this...

Relay.jpg


....and solder short wires onto the pins which I sleeve, the wires then terminate at screw connectors instead of using a bulky plug in base. The whole lot will then fit in a standard electrical backbox with a blanking plate cover.
 
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I was talking to a heating guy yesterday who was talking about using a motorised valve head as a relay, mainly as it's self contained so does not need a box, this seems daft to me, but I look at my junk box and yes I have a number of valve base relays with din rail bases but then I need a box to put them in, and they are so high it needs most adaptable boxes end up being far two big.

I want the supply to a central heating pump to also power the central heating, but the central heating must not power the pump, so triple and earth between the wiring centre and a relay, rather simple, but all the relays I am finding need a box, sure there must be a simple way?
There is no reason the relay base can't be mounted on the side of the box and some octal relays and base will fit in some 100x100x50 boxes. and sometimes a 47mm double backbox.
There is normally another means other than DIN rail to mount them if it works out better for you
Far more sensible and reliable than a valve actuator and cheaper too.
 
Do it properly with a Din rail, replaceable relays and lockable/screwed enclosure...far too many are bodging heating controls.

 
This is domestic not something with an unlimited multimillion budget that tax payers are funding.
Keep it simple....nothing wrong with links terminated in double ended ferrules. Diagnose an understand in seconds.
 
I have built many panels, however it is going a bit OTT for domestic, and will not comply. For commercial i.e. under the control of an instructed or skilled person no problem building a panel, but when under the control of an ordinary person the devices need to be type tested, OK I am not an ordinary person so I could build a panel, but I only want one relay.

What I am looking for is
RING-12S-COMBINATION-SPLIT-CHARGE-RELAY-KIT-TOWBAR-WIRING-CAMPER-CARAVAN-152530757239.JPG
this sort of thing but 230 volt AC, one shown is 12 volt split charging relay.

I know you can get relays to fit in consumer units, and to comply I suppose that is what one should use. But it seems a bit of over kill to just switch no more than 5 amp to turn on boiler when pump runs.
 
This is domestic not something with an unlimited multimillion budget that tax payers are funding.
Keep it simple....nothing wrong with links terminated in double ended ferrules. Diagnose an understand in seconds.

Would have looked better if the wire links went up into the trunking and back down again, but nothing wrong with linking using double ferrules. Wire colours are a bit random and aren't numbered. Neither are all the devices. Can't see the earth connected to the backplate.
 
Well I have been asked on many occasions to finish off and/or tidy up better looking panels than that. And if I'm honest I've earnt a lot of money due to people who think they can build panels.
This is domestic not something with an unlimited multimillion budget that tax payers are funding.
Domestic is no excuse for taking shortcuts. To put cable idents on a panel that size would probably add £2, To return the links into the trunking would probably add 2m of wire so about 40p, for the sake of £2.40 in materials the job could have been done so much better, all of that and adding the numbers to the drawing may have taken say 20 minutes. I take it there is a drawing:sneaky: and while we're at it, do the regs differentiate between domestic and commercial in the requirement to label OCD's?[/QUOTE]
Keep it simple....
fine with me, so why didn't you make it simple?
nothing wrong with links terminated in double ended ferrules.
Indeed, I do it all the time, but at least I route route them better.
Diagnose an understand in seconds.
it will take an aweful lot of seconds to dignose a fault on there with the total lack of information presented.

While you're at it, buy a pair of ferrule crimpers and do that properly too.

far too many are bodging heating controls.
and some post pics to demonstrate the point.;)
 

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