Understairs light and push to break swith or PIR

[dazzler9000]

Hoping for some advice here. I have two cupboards under the stairs. A bigger cupboard that houses a fuse board and a smaller shoe storage cupboard. Both are separated with MDF but I can run cables between the two.

The bigger cupboard houses a fuse board and already has a light and light switch inside.

I'd really like to get some light into the smaller shoe cupboard. I know this can be done by extending the circuit from the existing light to the new light fitting but I'd like to automate the light coming on and off by swapping out the light switch for a 'push to break switch' https://bit.ly/2Nkga9T or something similar. My question is, how would I wire this if I wanted to have two, one on each door? Any ideas, or would I be better off using a PIR and positioning it between both cupboards?

 

[dazzler9000]

Or I could just leave the light switch turned on and buy two lights with inbuilt motion detection..... Seems the easiest option.

 

[SUNRAY]

No you don't want an electronic device in there.
there are other versions of switches from the same supplier half that price.

I assume you are wanting separate lights in the 2 cupboards but do you need to alter the existing cupboard?

 

[dazzler9000]

Thanks, i'll take a look.

Yes, two lights, one in each. To be honest, I'm warming to one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Steinel-RS-16-switched-high-frequency/dp/B001UCAD40 in each cupboard. Seems like a quick and easy solution. Reliable brand also.

 

[SUNRAY]

A very simple solution but massive overkill for a shoe cupboard.

 

[JohnD]

A low wattage LED lamp uses so little electricity, that the cheapest option may just be to leave it on continuously for a couple of years, rather than pay the cost of installing automation.

Personally I have enough hands to operate a switch.

 

[bernardgreen]

the cheapest option may just be to leave it on continuously for a couple of years,

My son in law's parents had a house fire when clothing in a closed cupboard was set alight by the lamp in the cupboard. Un-known to them the door operated switch had failed leaving the lamp permanently lit.

 

[dazzler9000]

Thanks for the input everyone, i'll go for the 2 x Steinel as it seems like the easiest solution. Might not be the cheapest and I agree, it is overkill but will be worth it for the time I save looking for my shoes

 

[dazzler9000]

A very simple solution but massive overkill for a shoe cupboard.

Hu Sunray..... You might have been right. I wired them up today and I can't for the life of me get them to work properly, they are switching on and off all the time on their own.

I've tweaked the lux and sensitivity settings and can't get them to reliably work. I've also noticed that when somebody walks up the stairs they sometimes seem to switch on and off. I've fixed them to the wall so it's not like they are attached to the stairs and the slight stair movement would trigger them. I did wonder if light bleeds through the partition would be enough to trigger the other one but it's not consistent enough to pin it on that.

One thing to note, the instructions suggest that they should be wired as shown below. I haven't done this as I wanted them to function as two independent lights. I've gone via the switch into a junction box and then split off to both lights with live and neutral (no earth as I believe they are double insulated).

Any ideas? Should I send them back and just look at a door switch solution? If so I might need some help with a wiring diagram

 

[flameport]

Any ideas? Should I send them back and just look at a door switch solution?

Yes.

Those lights have microwave sensors, which are more than capable of sensing movement through doors, floors, ceilings and even some thin walls.
Their 8m detection range is grossly excessive for an under stairs cupboard.

Two of each of these items:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FM143.html
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CB5851.html
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTGLS4BCWW.html

Plus some 3 core cable/flex to connect the two lights to the supply and each other, and some 2 core flex from each light to the door switch.

 

[dazzler9000]

Thank you, I will take a look after dinner

 

[flameport]

Wiring is as shown in the first image here: https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Lighting-Circuit-layouts

 

[dazzler9000]

Not wanting to appear a bit dim here but I'm no electrician

As I've only got the two light fittings and switches, if I wire it like the attached image, will it work? The mention of a switched live always confuses me.

Also presumably, the earth from each switch will wire into the ceiling rose earth connection.

 

[flameport]

Yes, exactly like that. What's labelled as 'bulb holder flex' in that image will be two very short separate pieces that connect to the supplied lampholder.

In this application, there is no earth wire to the switch, hence the use of 2 core cable for that.

 

[dazzler9000]

Yes, exactly like that. What's labelled as 'bulb holder flex' in that image will be two very short separate pieces that connect to the supplied lampholder.

In this application, there is no earth wire to the switch, hence the use of 2 core cable for that.

So, is it standard to use 2 core cable for the switches or just twin and earth and snip off the earth?