Cabinets not square

Joined
5 Dec 2012
Messages
927
Reaction score
13
Country
United Kingdom
I've installed a row of cabinets, of which I started on the middle of the chimney breast rather than the corner, as the oven has to be central in chimney hence starting there.

To ensure that all cabinet doors are flush, the distance from wall to front of cabinet is 59.5cm at the corner end, and 58.5cm the far end (had to pull units from wall slightly to make flush)

I haven't installed the corner unit yet(I tegrsted dishwasher) but I've put a set square against the front face (blanking panel) of corner unit, and it's not 100% square with the xlal where the next run will be. To exagerate, the set square 'points' back into the room,.

How do I deal with this when installed next run (from corner I will be having a 600mm integrated washing machine, 1000mm sink units and at the end, an Integrated dishwasher at the end.

Would this mean that my end panel won't fit properly at the end of the washing machine?

Thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
I've installed a row of cabinets, of which I started on the middle of the chimney breast rather than the corner, as the oven has to be central in chimney hence starting there.

To ensure that all cabinet doors are flush, the distance from wall to front of cabinet is 59.5cm at the corner end, and 58.5cm the far end (had to pull units from wall slightly to make flush)

I haven't installed the corner unit yet(I tegrsted dishwasher) but I've put a set square against the front face (blanking panel) of corner unit, and it's not 100% square with the xlal where the next run will be. To exagerate, the set square 'points' back into the room,.

How do I deal with this when installed next run (from corner I will be having a 600mm integrated washing machine, 1000mm sink units and at the end, an Integrated dishwasher at the end.

Would this mean that my end panel won't fit properly at the end of the washing machine?

Thanks.

Drop them in dry to see what is happening, as the sides will need to be flat against each other it will give you an idea if and where you are going wrong and if adjustments are needed.
Be careful with packing out as your worktop depth will change, doors are on the front of the units I presume (and not inset in a frame before the clever comment appears lol)


With base units your can keep screws in places like behind hinges and shelves, be careful with screw sizes.
 
16140283842472744268298769737530.jpg
16140284158916058774547869064714.jpg
16140285023363912003112918529439.jpg


1st pic: cabibet run installed so far. Started installing at chimney breast

2nd pic: looking from R rise of chimney breast down to where corner will be

3rd pic: gap between wall and set square when set square is on current installed corner unit. Looking at it now it's probably not overly bad, maybe 3-4mm gap but I imagine this gap will increase the further along the run of cabinets.


I am getting a professional in to install my worktop. Will they scribe it so that the overhang is the same all along?
 
Sponsored Links
Have you checked the front face is all in line?
What are you going to do with the exposed edge this side in photo 2 where your level is?

The gap in photo 3 could be anything, its where it runs when you have a run of units in place to see how far out its running.

f you're using 600 worktops and you have 595mm to the front face of the cabinet and not front face of the door?

is that pillar isn't falling behind the line where the feet come, if not you need to think what you are going to do with the plinth there.

The fitter should scribe yes, but obviously needs to have the depth in the top to be able to scribe once the doors are on you need ideally 5-10mm overhang once the doors are on.
 
thanks for reply

yes i was thinking about the plinth - it's because instead of hacking a cabinet to bits and having slithers left, i just cut a bit of the side panel so i could hand the door making a false cupboard, hence no feet. I will probably just leave it? It's only a 450mm length/section and will be butting up to an end panel.

yes, the front faces are all flat, apart from the left side of the oven unit, and the right side of the 150mm unit next to the oven (about a 2-3mm gap between spirit level and front edge)- not sure why - doors look okay and all flush along the run of cabinets.
 
yes i was thinking about the plinth - it's because instead of hacking a cabinet to bits and having slithers left, i just cut a bit of the side panel so i could hand the door making a false cupboard, hence no feet. I will probably just leave it? It's only a 450mm length/section and will be butting up to an end panel..

You've lost me....

What are you going to do with the worktop to the right side of the oven housing, the final end panel top edge? How is the worktop going to finish there?
 
Sorry should have explained. I'm having a narrower worktop/cupboard beyond thst point as I've got a cellar door which I still need to open

Worktop wil be supported on the piece of timber attached to wall at that section, and the adjacent cabinet / end panel

Here is plan pic

16140662085502724141806083850959.jpg
 
Hope you haven't fixed the cupboards as yet.

What you should do is measure from what will be the back wall of the cupboards at each end 605mm out into the room at each side wall.
Draw a line between those 2 points, Check the line is square with the most important side wall (or at least looks 'square').
That line is the front of your cabinets. You may need to draw another line inset the distance the legs/feet are from the front of the cabinets.
You then fix the cabinets to the wall using "Space Plugs' (see Link).

HTH
 
If you have freestanding appliances, just be aware of putting pipes etc behind them, check the depth of them will be ok with what you're fitting.
Make sure doors will open ok once knobs are on.
Check the height of your appliances against the height, you're setting your base units to.
Also check you can get 650 deep worktops for the range you're using, if that's your proposal
 
i have got 610mm worktops, that would be okay wouldn't it? That would leave a 1.5cm gap at the smallest (getting it scribed so overhang should be 1.5cm all along)
 
Hope you haven't fixed the cupboards as yet.

What you should do is measure from what will be the back wall of the cupboards at each end 605mm out into the room at each side wall.
Draw a line between those 2 points, Check the line is square with the most important side wall (or at least looks 'square').
That line is the front of your cabinets. You may need to draw another line inset the distance the legs/feet are from the front of the cabinets.
You then fix the cabinets to the wall using "Space Plugs' (see Link).

HTH

hi, thanks for reply
Yes unfortunately they're in. I'll be installing the other wall as of tomorrow onwards so i'll see what i'm faced with.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top