light switch

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a light switch used to work but one time the light stayed on when we tried to switch it off. We replaced the light switch (two different switches) but the light won't go on. Electricity is coming to the switch. Any suggestions? here is a photo of the ceiling rose.
 

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Why have you shown a picture of the ceiling rose when you are having trouble with the switch?
Are all the wires making proper contact? They must have been otherwise the light (or others) would not have been working.

Presumably there are only two wires at the switch so not much to get wrong.
Put them both in the same terminal and see if the light works.
 
a light switch used to work but one time the light stayed on when we tried to switch it off. We replaced the light switch (two different switches) but the light won't go on. Electricity is coming to the switch. Any suggestions? here is a photo of the ceiling rose.
What terminal markings do you have on the switches?
 
Why have you shown a picture of the ceiling rose when you are having trouble with the switch?
Are all the wires making proper contact? They must have been otherwise the light (or others) would not have been working.

Presumably there are only two wires at the switch so not much to get wrong.
Put them both in the same terminal and see if the light works.
fair comment about the rose. we put both wires in the same terminal and the light bulb doesn't go on.
 
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Ok. Fair enough.

Assuming the bulb is alright, check all the terminals in the rose and light and make sure the wires are all secure and terminated properly.
 
What terminal markings do you have on the switches?
Ok. Fair enough.

Assuming the bulb is alright, check all the terminals in the rose and light and make sure the wires are all secure and terminated properly.
yes, changed the lightbulb. we've gone and bought a new rose and going to change just the flex part. I'll report back later
 
What instrument are you using to verify the voltages present at the switch ?
You need to do some testing at the rose and the switch .
 
Neon screwdrivers are not suitable for diagnosing electrical circuit problems.
 
not sure, I'll go and have a look. I don't live there so might not be for a couple of days.
It may be something like the original had
L3, L2, L1 and the replacement has
L2, L1, C or Com or
2W, 1W, C or Com
The colours indicate the different lable on different makes for the same terminal.
 
Neon screwdrivers are not suitable for diagnosing electrical circuit problems.
Has OP mentioned that's what he has? if so I've missed it.

If correctly used and understood they are an extremely useful diagnostic tool, these days the LED version vastly excedes the performance and versatility, I have one in every set of tools.

However those not accustomed to their use can get confused, I see no reason or excuse why electricians don't carry them.
 
Has OP mentioned that's what he has? if so I've missed it.

If correctly used and understood they are an extremely useful diagnostic tool, these days the LED version vastly excedes the performance and versatility, I have one in every set of tools.

However those not accustomed to their use can get confused, I see no reason or excuse why electricians don't carry them.

I am not an electrician but although I have a volt pen (read detector) in my rucksack, I normally use the glow in the dark (non contact screwdriver) that lives in my trouser pocket. And yes, I do understand that they are not as reliable as proper "tools". I have only ever had false positives, never a false negative. Unlike the volt pen, it doesn't just indicate inductive fields. If it picks up an inductive field it will glow slightly, if put my finger on the metal end cap it will light up more brightly.

I am happy to be shot down/corrected.

Nevertheless, from what I can see, it is a tool that may well provide false positives. If that is the case, then hopefully the users will resort to using other tools. I would, as a non professional I would rather use a tool that gives false positives.

I shall however duck for cover...........
 
I have only ever had false positives, never a false negative.

How do you know it was not a false "negative"

It could be indicating that the conductor was not Live ( a negative reading ) when the conductor was in fact Live but you did not get a shock when you touched it.

DO NOT TRY THIS

It is possible to hold a bare Live wire and not receive an electric shock. To receive a shock there has to be two points of contact with the body. one Live and one Earth or Neutral.

Birds can safely perch on bare overhead cables at 11 kV
 
Surprised no one has suggeted to the OP to make sure the connections he has made are actually to the bare wire ends and not onto the insulation.
 

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