Festoon lighting question.

Joined
29 Aug 2007
Messages
104
Reaction score
2
Location
Bournemouth
Country
United Kingdom
I’ve bought some ip57 outdoor mains voltage festoon lights. They are made with two core flex with a plug on one end and a connector on the other end to join another set if required, this has a screw on lid to make it water proof. I would like to cut the run in half and use two separate runs wired in to water proof junction boxes. The problem is that this would leave exposed ends of cable. What would be the best way to terminate the open ends of this flex to make it waterproof?
Thanks folks.
 
Sponsored Links
Heat shrink sleeving that is lined with hot melt adhesive is one option.


Festoon cable end.jpg
 
In the 'pro' environment 16A Ceeform plug and socket are fitted, that way the 2 halves can be joined when used elsewhere.
 
In the 'pro' environment 16A Ceeform plug and socket are fitted, that way the 2 halves can be joined when used elsewhere.

I know that it is commonly done that way but it has always seemed to me to be extremely bad practice to do so because festoon is nearly always 2 core cable and therefore leaves the socket without a CPC.
 
Sponsored Links
I know that it is commonly done that way but it has always seemed to me to be extremely bad practice to do so because festoon is nearly always 2 core cable and therefore leaves the socket without a CPC.

An leaves you open to finding a burger van plugged into the end of 250m of festering doom!
 
An leaves you open to finding a burger van plugged into the end of 250m of festering doom!
I know that it is commonly done that way but it has always seemed to me to be extremely bad practice to do so because festoon is nearly always 2 core cable and therefore leaves the socket without a CPC.

Manage the site...

Yes I know it get tricky on big sites.
 
Lawn mover plugs and sockets seem a better idea
upload_2021-7-3_2-28-7.png
only two pin so unlikely for errors, the Telco IP68 Plug & Socket
Waterproof Connector seems better upload_2021-7-3_2-31-1.png but they are three pin, however if never going to join again @bernardgreen has given best method.

I had some Christmas lights festoon idea, and I was never really happy about leaving outside for an extended time, over Christmas OK but not really spider proof, would want RCD protection and not were if it does trip loose other items in the house.
 
I'm inclined to agree with robin on this one, "manage the site" doesn't seem like a good excuse for leaving a socket of a relatively common type (not as common as a 13A socket but not exactly rare either) lying around with a missing earth.
 
I'm inclined to agree with robin on this one, "manage the site" doesn't seem like a good excuse for leaving a socket of a relatively common type (not as common as a 13A socket but not exactly rare either) lying around with a missing earth.
Managing the site is what every temp power supplier does in my experience and yes they are a common connector which is exactly why they are fitted at both ends of hundreds, if not thousands, of miles of festoons held in stock by temp power providers, plant hire companies and event/exhibition providers the length and breadth of britain.

The subjcts has been discussed ad infinitum by many people over the year and the final consensus is always CeeForms and manage the risk.
My preferred idea was to use the European standard but then we have to add an unnecessary layer of thousands of miles of extention lead hire stock to the system.
 
Lawn mover plugs and sockets seem a better idea View attachment 238135only two pin so unlikely for errors, the Telco IP68 Plug & Socket
Waterproof Connector seems better View attachment 238136 but they are three pin, however if never going to join again @bernardgreen has given best method.
Well the 2 pin are not weather resistant and the waterproof type you show are not relaible as has been proved by those who have thied them for this purpose.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, it looks like adhesive lined heat shrink is the way to go. Unless I feed it in to the shed with a IP rated junction box at the end of the run and fit a light in my shed. Its only a small tool shed so only very occasional use and I can live with having to have the festoon lights on to use the shed light. Not perfect but better than no shed light at all?
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, it looks like adhesive lined heat shrink is the way to go. Unless I feed it in to the shed with a IP rated junction box at the end of the run and fit a light in my shed. Its only a small tool shed so only very occasional use and I can live with having to have the festoon lights on to use the shed light. Not perfect but better than no shed light at all?
Which would contravene the Regs as you should not supply a light fitting in that way with 2 core cable.
Personally i would just fit an Ip rated box on the end with 2 connecters inside
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top