Just give them a clean and pop them back.
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Changing Brake Discs
- Thread starter RickH
- Start date
Is that all they are ... Medium Carbon Steel bolts ? would have thought higher grade than 8.8
Mine haven't failed yet! Grade 8.8 is pretty good stuff, minimum UTS 785 N/mm2, carbon steel for eg pressure vessels is typically 480 N/mm2. Structural steelwork is about the same, depending on grade, I haven't been involved in that for a few years.
But if your existing bolts are OK you could re-use them, I only changed mine because the heads were smaller than standard size, and well rusted.
So, have you changed them yet?
Nope .... I had shoulder surgery last week .. so going to wait until stitches are taken out next week, just getting all in-line ready.
Have pads & discs ready - Eurospares were really quick & free delivery.
My plan is to replace the 4 x fixing bolts (M12) and the 2 x disc retaining screws (M6) ... reuse the 2 x fixing pins.
Was sent link to copy of SKODA workshop manuals .. and this advises to replace those screws.
Probably do this next weekend.
Thanks to all for input
Just skimming a bit through this one Rick.....are you sure the caliper bracket retaining bolts aren't the splined type, so beloved by VAG?
If so, they are effing tight and you need the vehicle well jacked up to be able to get a long bar onto them.
John
If so, they are effing tight and you need the vehicle well jacked up to be able to get a long bar onto them.
John
Remember these original sliders.....they used to slide within a steel guide so seizure was almost guaranteed.
Thankfully they now slide in a nylon sleeve. Best to use a 3/8” drive ratchet with the allen socket to shift them.
John
Will standard reach one work ... or does it need to be a long reach ? ...... see both types sold as for 'caliper bolts'
We are dealing with the rear brakes here, right?
All I can say is that the Yeti, and the replacement car (which begins with K but I can't remember its crazy name) has the splined bolts holding the caliper bracket on, which needs to be shifted to get the disc off. A couple of socket extensions are handy for these, 1/2" drive. The heads of the spline bolts are round so they are easy to identify.
I can't specifically say for the Kodiaq - it's just a thought I had!
John
All I can say is that the Yeti, and the replacement car (which begins with K but I can't remember its crazy name) has the splined bolts holding the caliper bracket on, which needs to be shifted to get the disc off. A couple of socket extensions are handy for these, 1/2" drive. The heads of the spline bolts are round so they are easy to identify.
I can't specifically say for the Kodiaq - it's just a thought I had!
John
I think I had to remove a bottom shock mounting to get a straight fit onto my splined calliper carrier bolts on my A3 to replace the discs. The Golf disc just wiggled out.
There's been the odd occasion when undoing the centre hub nut will allow the disc out as the hub floats - I'm unsure which car that was on though.
However, I have remembered that the errant Skoda is a Karoq!
John
However, I have remembered that the errant Skoda is a Karoq!
John
If it’s anything like my A3, space will be very limited. I used a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 7mm short bit as in post #4 in this thread.
From info given the Caliper mounting bolts are torx so probably as you describe.Just skimming a bit through this one Rick.....are you sure the caliper bracket retaining bolts aren't the splined type, so beloved by VAG?
If so, they are effing tight and you need the vehicle well jacked up to be able to get a long bar onto them.
John
The video I had posted showed Hex head bolts also on VAG.
The ones on my A3 and Golf are a M14 splined bolt.
If they are cap heads, Torx or Ribe, then I think there's a pretty good chance that they'll be 10.9, I'm afraid. Possibly even 12.9. I'd definitely re-use the old ones rather than risk 8.8 bolts. The small ones in the caliper slides don't carry much load, but of course, the big ones holding the caliper carrier to the upright, take a lot. They're usually a fine pitch too, for extra clamping load.