I am drilling all the way. Perhaps you want to say I shouldn't drill all the way using hammer action?
Since there's no way to predict at what depth the blow out can happen, it is best to reduce power. Normal hammer drill has less power than sds.
Fixing bolt to wall
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
I am drilling all the way. Perhaps you want to say I shouldn't drill all the way using hammer action?
Since there's no way to predict at what depth the blow out can happen, it is best to reduce power. Normal hammer drill has less power than sds.
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If you drill a hole all the way through the brick, how will you fill up the hole with resin without it coming out the other side, though we still don't understand why you're drilling all the way through?
It is either a cavity wall, or a two brick thick wall. You don't need to drill all the way through and out the back. Use a permanent marker, bit of tape or similar on the drill bit, as a guide of when to stop drilling, 2/3rds the way into the brick.
Good luck with trying to drill a hole that size using just a normal hammer drill, most people saw sense years ago and moved to the much faster SDS.
It's a cavity wall. The stud is 150mm. The brick is 102mm. Some of the stud is needed at the front. The rest go to the back. The resin going to the back, assuming it won't all dribble down the cavity, will act as additional anchor.
The hole will start with a small pilot drill bit to reduce size of the blow out. Then the hole is enlarged with larger bits that might not need hammer action at all. I am happy to tell you how well it works in a few days. This is fairly new to me since I don't do much wall drilling.
The hole will start with a small pilot drill bit to reduce size of the blow out. Then the hole is enlarged with larger bits that might not need hammer action at all. I am happy to tell you how well it works in a few days. This is fairly new to me since I don't do much wall drilling.
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Blow out doesn't happen at the front face, it happens at the rear face. The masonry shears at the back, because it lacks support.
Yes as the video shows. Small bit, small power, leads to small blow out.
Why not just saw the end of the bolt then you don't need to drill a hole all the way through and your resin will actually all stay in the hole.
It's an option. I will do some drilling then decide what to do depending on how the hole looks. In fact, I can drill through with a small bit and partially enlarge it, the hole still won't be big enough for much of resin to leak into the back.
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If you insist on drilling all the way through the brick, why are you worried about blow out? It will be invisible until the bay that the house is pulled down.
When drilling all the way through a 9 inch solid wall I use a small diameter SDS drill bit and expect a small degree of breakout. I could minimise it by paying someone to push a lump of timber against the wall where the drill bit will exit but I normally work on my own. I then use a wider diameter drill and drill from both sides of the hole. Hopefully the existing breakout will be smaller than the final diameter drill bit used.
Oh, and having watched your video, I think that I can safely say that I have never had that much breakout. You just apply less force as it is about to poke out.
When drilling all the way through a 9 inch solid wall I use a small diameter SDS drill bit and expect a small degree of breakout. I could minimise it by paying someone to push a lump of timber against the wall where the drill bit will exit but I normally work on my own. I then use a wider diameter drill and drill from both sides of the hole. Hopefully the existing breakout will be smaller than the final diameter drill bit used.
Oh, and having watched your video, I think that I can safely say that I have never had that much breakout. You just apply less force as it is about to poke out.
If I was as poor as pi$$ and needed to drill holes, I'd beg steal and borrow to buy an SDS. Blowing out the back of a brick into a (never seen) cavity is probably the daftest reason not to own an SDS I have ever heard. Its like not buying a shower because it'll make you wet. FFS.
All you need do is mark the drill bit, after measuring the depth of brick and ease off as you near the mark.
I'm doing some repairs to the house front and had a bit of a scare with the ladder. The problem is there's a deep ground floor canopy that's stopping me put the ladder steep enough and the paving slopes away from the house:
It's threatened to slide down a few times so I'm going to fit some of these across the wall between the windows to anchor the ladder to:
Not quite scaffolding spec but should be effective enough for a ladder or tower. Bolt size is M10 x 90mm and the bricks are solids.
It's threatened to slide down a few times so I'm going to fit some of these across the wall between the windows to anchor the ladder to:
Not quite scaffolding spec but should be effective enough for a ladder or tower. Bolt size is M10 x 90mm and the bricks are solids.
If anyone has seen any of DIYNutJobs previous posts, this is pretty much par for the course!
If there is a YouTube video to follow, that will likely trump any of our ideas... and maybe even common sense!
If there is a YouTube video to follow, that will likely trump any of our ideas... and maybe even common sense!
You don't need those. You need this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Youngman-Aluminium-Ladder-Stay/p/530039.
You probably don't understand what's going on here. An anchor fixed to a full brick is 4x more safe than fixed to half a brick. Not everything in life is about looks.
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