That's what I thought at first, but my standoff moves the ladder too far away from the wall lower down so I can't reach it. If you look at your image and continue down below where it says "Tap to zoom" you can see how far the ladder is from the wall.
Fixing bolt to wall
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
That's what I thought at first, but my standoff moves the ladder too far away from the wall lower down so I can't reach it. If you look at your image and continue down below where it says "Tap to zoom" you can see how far the ladder is from the wall.
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You can mount the stand off lower down the ladder.
How do you get up there to fix that on poor ground?
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I do understand yes, but your concerns are ill founded. You are obviously ill versed in pull-out forces and how to actually use an SDS drill. DIY is clearly not for you.
Now now, we don't talk about that.
By fixing an eyebolt first - Oh wait a minute ???
Standoff has to go on top of ladder because of the canopy sticking out halfway down the wall, otherwise I'll be see sawing.
At the moment I've hammered a thin piece of sheet steel vertically in the gap between the paving to form a stop to stop the ladder sliding down.
At the moment I've hammered a thin piece of sheet steel vertically in the gap between the paving to form a stop to stop the ladder sliding down.
If I was as poor as pi$$ and needed to drill holes, I'd beg steal and borrow to buy an SDS. Blowing out the back of a brick into a (never seen) cavity is probably the daftest reason not to own an SDS I have ever heard. Its like not buying a shower because it'll make you wet. FFS.
Agreed, when I moved in to my current home, I only had a 705W hammer drill. The interior walls were a very hard cement render and soft black bricks. I once bent a 7mm masonry bit trying to drill a hole I had been drilling for about 8 minutes. The bit got so hot that it glowed. I borrowed a SDS drill, it took about 15 seconds to drill the hole.
I went out and purchased my own SDS.
I too would recommend a ladder stay but not that particular model. I uses 4 wingnuts to connect it to the ladder. The versions that use a spring hook are far less hassle.
I have these on one of my ladders. Ground sloping away isn't a problem but the legs make it difficult to work near garden walls
Unfortunately it has been discontinued though. They do have something cheaper though.
or even
www.ladders-999.co.uk
That said, there have been times when I just drilled a wooden batten in to the paving.
Unfortunately it has been discontinued though. They do have something cheaper though.
or even
LADDERMATE Ladder Safety Stabiliser from Ladders999
LADDERMATE Ladder Safety Stabiliser
www.ladders-999.co.uk
That said, there have been times when I just drilled a wooden batten in to the paving.
Use a wood beam at the top of the ladder then. It will even allow you to lean the ladder where the window is if the beam is longer than the width of the window. Unless for minor or poorly done trade jobs, the ladder is pretty useless because it really only gives you one working hand.
Put a rubber mat under the ladder then it won't slide. When I used a ladder previously, I put a stack of joined MDF at the ladder feet to prevent sliding out.
I think your sheet steel could injure someone. The vietcon had something similar using bamboos.
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That is generally where one fits the stand off.
I don't understand why anyone suggested that you fit it lower.
A downside, as you say, is that it pushes you further away from the lower parts of the first floor windows.
There's nothing to not understand. So long as the stand off is not below your center of gravity, it's fine. This then allows the ladder to be closer to the wall. This kind of thing is either obvious or it isn't. Another option is to mod the stand off by cutting it shorter. If it needs to be very short, then it's no worst off just to use your own beam of some kind. With that, you have got to have a feel for what size beam is needed.
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Your stupidity and dangerous advice regards ladders is appalling.
The primary purpose of a ladder stand off is to project you further away from the wall. In the above example, I recommended it IF the lower ridge provided an obstruction, preventing the ladder from being used at the recommended 75 degrees.
In my experience, if a ladder stay is used more than 3, or so, rungs down from the top of the ladder, at 75 degrees, it won't even touch the wall.
Apropos things being "obvious", @cdbe clearly didn't understand your point (hence his comment about seesaws).
I could sit down and use basic trigonometry to calculate the lowest rung that could be used, but I really don't see the point.
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