how best to split 45 amp 3 ways?

[pgtips]

Hi,
I must move a 45amp cooker socket switch with socket.
I plan to fit 13A oven, a 13A hob and then have 1 socket (for washing machine) = 3 sockets max 39A.

How is it possible to split the 45A to 3 cables, gives me more flexibility but unsure how to approach correctly.

Many thanks,
Kevin

 

[EFLImpudence]

That the switch is 45A doesn't mean the circuit is - although maybe it could be. What rating is the MCB or fuse on the circuit?

 

[JohnD]

What is this "13Amp hob?"

 

[pgtips]

I'll check the fuse tomorrow but no matter what the draw won't be higher then current.

For the 13A socket there'll also be a fused spur.

I want to be sure to achieve 3 trails.

 

[pgtips]

What is this "13Amp hob?"

It's a plug in hob. 13a plug. Same for oven

 

[EFLImpudence]

I'll check the fuse tomorrow but no matter what the draw won't be higher then current.

It will if it is 'only' 32A.

For the 13A socket there'll also be a fused spur.

No point having a Fused Connector Unit. There will be fuses in the plugs.

I want to be sure to achieve 3 trails.

Right.

 

[stem]

What is this "13Amp hob?"

I wondered that too..... The electric hobs I have seen are usually 5kW or 6kW, so more like 26 Amps. Unless it's a gas hob and it's just for the ignition, but that would be far much lower than 13A

 

[pgtips]

Currently the fuse board feed runs into a cooker switch with 13amp socket next to it.
The current electric cooker days it's 9000kw.
At fuse box it's 32a.

The switch is currently directly above the cooker which is a huge no no.
In the past I've seen extension lead hanging from these cooker switches which makes me wince.

So I plan to trace back up the wall then continue to the right and drop down to a safer area.
13a hobs and 13a oven ( do exist, Google will show them.) Kw draw is much lower.

I need an under counter socket anyway so I thought 1 plug for hob, 1 for oven and one for washing machine with fused spur to stop home made extension lead.

A dual appliance spur I think will do the job. 2 tails out is sufficient.

Stays same as it is but more practical. Move the cooker switch and separate it to cooker and a plug (not combined) and not have overloaded sockets in a dangerous place.

 

[Alec_t]

At fuse box it's 32a.

Then that's your limit. So 3 x 13A would exceed that.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Plus - If the circuit is still classed as a 'cooker circuit' you must also allow 5A for the socket on the switch.

However, a 32A 'socket circuit' can have as many sockets as you want. Obviously if you plug in more than 32A, then, as with all socket circuits, it will be overloaded.

Also, if your washing machine is fairly modern, it will not be 13A.

 

[pgtips]

Hi, and thank you for the replies, my learning curve never seems to stop.
Could I politely ask if someone could share some knowledge.

Currently there is a 9000w cooker hardwired, the by the side socket has 13A capability. I see lots of these want 45amps

The current cooker all electric (not mine but left behind) is 9000 w (label says can go to 9800) so that's 40a min.
Plus a 13a socket.
That's 53a on a 32a circuit. Something's not right in my head.

I looked into other ' all in one' cookers, the lowest amp I found was 32A.

It's an old install, 70s or 80s maybe but surely the circuits are wrong, it wasn't right then.

I wrongly assumed I had 45amps to work with. A plug in hob, oven and socket ( so duplicating what's there but lower draw) I thought 39amps was good.

But now I'm wondering how on earth the current to be replaced install had not gone up in flames.

 

[winston1]

So I plan to trace back up the wall then continue to the right and drop down to a safer area.

How do you intend to maintain the safe zones.

I need an under counter socket anyway so I thought 1 plug for hob, 1 for oven and one for washing machine with fused spur to stop home made extension lead.

The hob needs a socket not a plug. Don’t understand ‘fused spur to stop home made extension lead’. Washing machine does not require a fused spur, it’s plug has a fuse.

A dual appliance spur I think will do the job. 2 tails out is sufficient.

Stays same as it is but more practical. Move the cooker switch and separate it to cooker and a plug

Socket not plug.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

it’s plug has a fuse.

You mean 'its plug has a fuse.'

 

[winston1]

Yes. Pedant.

 

[terryplumb]

Hi, and thank you for the replies, my learning curve never seems to stop.
Could I politely ask if someone could share some knowledge.

Currently there is a 9000w cooker hardwired, the by the side socket has 13A capability. I see lots of these want 45amps

The current cooker all electric (not mine but left behind) is 9000 w (label says can go to 9800) so that's 40a min.
Plus a 13a socket.
That's 53a on a 32a circuit. Something's not right in my head.

I looked into other ' all in one' cookers, the lowest amp I found was 32A.

It's an old install, 70s or 80s maybe but surely the circuits are wrong, it wasn't right then.

I wrongly assumed I had 45amps to work with. A plug in hob, oven and socket ( so duplicating what's there but lower draw) I thought 39amps was good.

But now I'm wondering how on earth the current to be replaced install had not gone up in flames.

Diversity applies to your old cooker. As all heating elements would not be drawing full power continuously ,but rather cycling on and off under the control of their thermostats. The average current drawn would be less than 32 amps.