Different coloured Silicone round bath and down corner walls ??

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Hi,

Hope someone can help me with this one please ??

As a competent DIY'er I've just tiled round the bath, applied anthracite grout, and now it's silicone time down two corner walls to the bath, and all the way round the bath.

As the two corner walls down to the bath are going to be anthracite coloured silicone, and round the bath is going to be white........in which order do I apply the different colours ?? And does silicone stick to silicone once cured ??

My old brain doesn't work like it used to, so thought I'd ask the experts :unsure:

Cheers,
Graeme.
 
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Have you considered just doing it all in anthracite?

This is what I did in my bathroom- obviously depends on whether this matches the decor but I'd imagine it would if it is coordinated with the grout.
 
Have you considered just doing it all in anthracite?

This is what I did in my bathroom- obviously depends on whether this matches the decor but I'd imagine it would if it is coordinated with the grout.

It's a thought, but I think white silicone round the bath just looks right, and it's the way I'm going to go (y):)

I just can't get my old brain round how to do it without it looking sh!te. Common sense says down the corner walls first in anthracite, let it set, then round the bath second...... but how to you do that keeping it neat, tidy, waterproof and the white on top of the anthracite in the corners ?? :unsure:
 
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For a start I would not use silicone at all because it always has to be replaced sonner or latter. Instead I would get a product called "teleseal" (and have done more than once in the past). It's more expensive than silicone but permanent and hard wearing. They will tell you exactly how to deal with your tile problem in their instructions:- https://teleseal.co.uk/
 
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I would apply the white first, ensuring i have a neat, flat top edge in the corner where the beads are to meet. Once this has set, then apply the anthracite. I'd then use a bit of masking tape on the visible face of the white silicone (not the top edge). Apply the bead, ensuring an overlap of the anthracite onto the masking tape. Shape the anthracite as usual ensuring its pressed into the corner next to the white and then peel of the masking tape which should leave a tidy, straight join.
 
For a start I would not use silicone at all because it always has to be replaced sonner or latter. Instead I would get a product called "teleseal" (and have done more than once in the past). It's more expensive than silicone but permanent and hard wearing. They will tell you exactly how to deal with your tile problem in their instructions:- https://teleseal.co.uk/
Appreciate the advice, but the silicone is already bought and well tested in the Pro and DIY world, and no doubt at some stage the product you suggest the seal will go :unsure:
 
I would apply the white first, ensuring i have a neat, flat top edge in the corner where the beads are to meet. Once this has set, then apply the anthracite. I'd then use a bit of masking tape on the visible face of the white silicone (not the top edge). Apply the bead, ensuring an overlap of the anthracite onto the masking tape. Shape the anthracite as usual ensuring its pressed into the corner next to the white and then peel of the masking tape which should leave a tidy, straight join.

Thanks for that advice, sounds like a good idea :). Any other thoughts anyone ?? :unsure:

It's sooooo frustrating being a perfectionist, but not having the skills to do a perfect job !! :cry:. In the past I've just used masking tape and my finger on silicone tile and bath seals, and a bit of soapy water to aid sliding. But with soapy water, you cannot help get some behind the silicone which will eventually add to the seal breaking, and you always get a feathered edge when removing the masking tape and giving it a final fingering !! So this time I've bought some Cramer Fugi shaping tools,so hopefully I can get a more professional, long lasting finish. I can see it going Pete Tong, but worth a go :p
 
no doubt at some stage the product you suggest the seal will go
I know the product well and the first one I fitted 17 years ago is still there showing no deterioration or leaks. There is no faffing about with masking tape,soapy water or "shaping tools" which are just bits of plastic which you could make yourself out of used ice cream tubs if the truth be told. I know that the product is the best solution to your problem and will shortly be fitting another.
 
I know the product well and the first one I fitted 17 years ago is still there showing no deterioration or leaks. There is no faffing about with masking tape,soapy water or "shaping tools" which are just bits of plastic which you could make yourself out of used ice cream tubs if the truth be told. I know that the product is the best solution to your problem and will shortly be fitting another.

I didn't even bother checking the product you mentioned, I just assumed it was a better, more expensive type of sealant like silicone, but since you replied again, I had a look........

With the greatest of respect, because I don't like to diss other's opinions when they offer to help and mean well, but that really is a shockingly bad solution to a problem. I wouldn't entertain something as hideous looking as that :confused:. Good luck with your choices though (y):)
 
I know the product well and the first one I fitted 17 years ago is still there showing no deterioration or leaks. There is no faffing about with masking tape,soapy water or "shaping tools" which are just bits of plastic which you could make yourself out of used ice cream tubs if the truth be told. I know that the product is the best solution to your problem and will shortly be fitting another.

Shaping tools are not just bits of plastic. They tend to be profiled silicone.

I use them regularly with both silicone and MS polymers.

I suspect that you have never used one, hence your (incorrect) belief that they are the same as the hi-density polyethylene (HDPE) used to make ice cream tubs.

I am glad that you are happy with your product but, with respect, they are generally considered to be a DIY compromise. That said, I am impressed that the plastic has not become yellow after 17 years.

If I employed a plumber to fit a bath for a customer and he used one of those... I would never hand his number out again
 
Charliediy on youtube covered this subject regarding silicone and getting a larger angled run with pro tool vs finger smear that don't last and water can hang in the shape. Edge breaks down as well as thin.
I use tools where I can now to get the silicone around.
Also knew a guy that made plastic tools out of margarine lids and made a living applying silicone, especially coloured silicone which looked amazing. Black silicone on a white kitchen ect. He would do opposite sides to get it correct in the corner with what look like mitre joint.
Clever.
Meths and blunt wood chisel to get the excess silicone off surfaces as he shaped and tooled it.

No, silicone don't stick to silicone well.
 
Charliediy on youtube covered this subject regarding silicone and getting a larger angled run with pro tool vs finger smear that don't last and water can hang in the shape. Edge breaks down as well as thin.
I use tools where I can now to get the silicone around.
Also knew a guy that made plastic tools out of margarine lids and made a living applying silicone, especially coloured silicone which looked amazing. Black silicone on a white kitchen ect. He would do opposite sides to get it correct in the corner with what look like mitre joint.
Clever.
Meths and blunt wood chisel to get the excess silicone off surfaces as he shaped and tooled it.

No, silicone don't stick to silicone well.

I watched the CharlieDIY vid's, and in particular his "how to do corners with a shaping tool". Unfortunately, and I probably know why ('cause its a pain in the arse to do), they were in the same colour.

Anyway, after umming and arring about it for ages, I've just taken the plunge with doing the verticals first in anthracite. Will let it dry overnight, and do the white tomorrow. As it was my first time using the Cramer Fugi tool, I did what was advised and took my time. It's come out ok, but not perfect (which frustrates the feck out of me !! :p ), there are a couple of small ripples. But again, listening to the advice, if you've got it about 90% right.....its time to leave it !!

I did all this dry, as I'm a firm believer that if you use soapy water for finishing, some of it will get behind the joint and help make it fail earlier than it would have dry.

Thanks for the advice everyone (y)
 
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I watched the CharlieDIY vid's, and in particular his "how to do corners with a shaping tool". Unfortunately, and I probably know why ('cause its a pain in the arse to do), they were in the same colour.

Anyway, after umming and arring about it for ages, I've just taken the plunge with doing the verticals first in anthracite. Will let it dry overnight, and do the white tomorrow. As it was my first time using the Cramer Fugi tool, I did what was advised and took my time. It's come out ok, but not perfect (which frustrates the feck out of me !! :p ), there are a couple of small ripples. But again, listening to the advice, if you've got it about 90% right.....its time to leave it !!

I did all this dry, as I'm a firm believer that if you use soapy water for finishing, some of it will get behind the joint and help make it fail earlier than it would have dry.

Thanks for the advice everyone (y)

The soapy water issue is particularly contentious. I am not sure where I stand on it.

Without it, there is a risk of the excess silicone being spread so thin that it will tear off the tile if someone runs their finger over it further down the line.

My thinking is that if the bead is reasonably applied/sized, the washing up liquid will not penetrate deep enough to compromise the overall seal.
 
For a start I would not use silicone at all because it always has to be replaced sonner or latter. Instead I would get a product called "teleseal" (and have done more than once in the past). It's more expensive than silicone but permanent and hard wearing. They will tell you exactly how to deal with your tile problem in their instructions:- https://teleseal.co.uk/
That looks very unsightly
 
Charliediy on youtube covered this subject regarding silicone and getting a larger angled run with pro tool vs finger smear that don't last and water can hang in the shape. Edge breaks down as well as thin.
I use tools where I can now to get the silicone around.
Also knew a guy that made plastic tools out of margarine lids and made a living applying silicone, especially coloured silicone which looked amazing. Black silicone on a white kitchen ect. He would do opposite sides to get it correct in the corner with what look like mitre joint.
Clever.
Meths and blunt wood chisel to get the excess silicone off surfaces as he shaped and tooled it.

No, silicone don't stick to silicone well.

If I remember rightly, in the video you're talking about, he shows that silicone does indeed stick to silicone?
 

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