Replacing a 3 way light switch(with timer)

[GrahamAgain]

Hi, In my flats we have old push button timer switches, bt one is playing up (button staying in). I've bought a new switch to replace it (not a push button), but the connections are all labelled differently, so simple like-for-like is not possible. Old wiring also not clearly labelled or identified (which doesn't help).
There are 3 push button switches in total all controlling 3 stairwell lights. I am only replacing one switch.

Old switch :
Com has two connecting wires(both red),
NC has one wire (red)
NO has two wires (1 blue, 1 red).

New switch has the following connections:
Nin
Nout
Lin1
Lin2
Trig
Lout

Please can you help me solve my puzzle.
Thank you.

 

[ericmark]

You will need to rewire to fit that switch as no neutral at the switch, this pneumatic time switch would be likely a lot easier to fit.

It seems there are some extra terminals but unlike the one you have you don't need to use them.

 

[SUNRAY]

Did any instructions come with it?

Is there a local light (maybe just a tiny neon) that goes off when a button is pushed?

What else is in the backbox (I see something black)?

Do you have any test equipment (Multimeter)?

 

[GrahamAgain]

Did any instructions come with it?

Is there a local light (maybe just a tiny neon) that goes off when a button is pushed?

What else is in the backbox (I see something black)?

Do you have any test equipment (Multimeter)?

Yes here (https://www.lowenergie.com/wp-conte...3A-Multi-Use-Touch-Activated-Timer-Switch.pdf) but don't tell me how my existing light is wired.

I worry about some of the other wires in the box - see pic.

I don't have a multimeter

 

[GrahamAgain]

ou will need to rewire to fit that switch as no neutral at the switch, this pneumatic time switch would be likely a lot easier to fit.

Would that be an easier like for like straight swap?

Just looked the instructions online and would appear to be straight forward swap.

Thank you

 

[ericmark]

Seeing new picture maybe you can use the electronic switch, but without test gear it will not be easy.

I would swap like for like.

 

[FrodoOne]

Comparing New (https://www.lowenergie.com/wp-conte...3A-Multi-Use-Touch-Activated-Timer-Switch.pdf )and Old
Live (which should be Line) = COM
Live-Out (should be Line-Out) = NO (Normally Open)

On the Circuit Board,
L-OUT will be (Live-Out)/Line-Out
Lin1 and Lin2 are "junctions" for the any two Line conductors (Line-In and Line-Out)
Nin and Nout are "junctions" for any two Neutral conductors

Why there is any connection on the "Old" switch to NC (Normally Closed) terminal, I know not - and there seems to be no such "provision" on the "New" device !
What did operate when the "Controlled Light" was not turned ON
and
did not operate when it was turned ON?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Are these old switches in communal areas? (Staircase or corridors)? Do you (the residents) own the freehold?
If it's yes to the 1st and no to the 2nd then you really shouldn't be touching those switches...Consequences could be serious (eg new switch you put in fails or switches light off too quickly. Someone takes a tumble, sticks in a claim via some ambulance chasers and suddenly you're in the dock)
As for replacement, stick with the pneumatic types you already have UNLESS there's some other pressing reason to upgrade.

 

[GrahamAgain]

Are these old switches in communal areas? (Staircase or corridors)? Do you (the residents) own the freehold?
If it's yes to the 1st and no to the 2nd then you really shouldn't be touching those switches...Consequences could be serious (eg new switch you put in fails or switches light off too quickly. Someone takes a tumble, sticks in a claim via some ambulance chasers and suddenly you're in the dock)
As for replacement, stick with the pneumatic types you already have UNLESS there's some other pressing reason to upgrade.

yes - communal staircase
Yes - we own the freehold
Thanks. Will replace like for like

 

[GrahamAgain]

Comparing New (https://www.lowenergie.com/wp-conte...3A-Multi-Use-Touch-Activated-Timer-Switch.pdf )and Old
Live (which should be Line) = COM
Live-Out (should be Line-Out) = NO (Normally Open)

On the Circuit Board,
L-OUT will be (Live-Out)/Line-Out
Lin1 and Lin2 are "junctions" for the any two Line conductors (Line-In and Line-Out)
Nin and Nout are "junctions" for any two Neutral conductors

Why there is any connection on the "Old" switch to NC (Normally Closed) terminal, I know not - and there seems to be no such "provision" on the "New" device !
What did operate when the "Controlled Light" was not turned ON
and
did not operate when it was turned ON?

from all of the three push buttons, all the lights came on and whenoff after about 5 minutes, until this switch got syuck in the 'on' position.
Thank you.
Will replace like with like.

 

[SUNRAY]

Could you do a favour and confirm which wires go with which in cables.
I think its
1-9 or 10
2-6
3-4
5-9 or 10
7-8

Once you have worked that out could you disconnect the wire '7' in 'NC' (with power off of course) then test to see if the other 2 switches still function. (I'm guessing one won't work).

 

[SUNRAY]

Could you do a favour and confirm which wires go with which in cables.
I think its
1-9 or 10
2-6
3-4
5-9 or 10
7-8
View attachment 302229

 

[securespark]

UNLESS there's some other pressing reason to upgrade.

Thank you for today's laugh out loud guffaw!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Thank you for today's laugh out loud guffaw!

I'll get me coat

 

[securespark]

I'll get me coat

On the contrary, more please!