Inset tile to wooden worktop

[Johnking]

I have a ruined wooded worktop where water from the sink has rotted the wood. As a short term bodge I am thinking of insetting a single 1200x600 tile, which would fit perfecty. The idea would be to use a router to create a tight fitting recess such that the tile lies flush with the rest of the worktop.

I will need to cut a shape in the tile for the drop in sink, with pretty tight tolerances. I'll also need to mount a through-worktop mixer tap.

What I don't know:

What adhesive to use under the tile.
What sealant to use around the edges of the tile
How to cut the hole for the sink
How to mount the tap tightly enough without cracking the tile
Other things only an expert would know!

I realise I should really rip out the whole worktop, but in fact there's another 4m of lovely maple that I don't want to lose.

Can anyone advise?

 

[foxhole]

I would advise against it , (unless you have a good supply of free large tiles)even if your cut out is successful just picking it up to install is likely to break it given you will have a hole for taps a few mm from edge of tile and edge of cut out .

 

[Johnking]

I would advise against it , (unless you have a good supply of free large tiles)even if your cut out is successful just picking it up to install is likely to break it given you will have a hole for taps a few mm from edge of tile and edge of cut out .

I see. What if I made the cuts with the tile already in place so that it was supported?

Alternatively, can you suggest another material that I could do this with?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I guess a 'high pressure laminate' eg Trespa Meteon would work but not cheap, there are other manufacturers. It's typically used as an exterior cladding but it's also used for toilet partitions amongst other things so only available in massive sheets or you pay a premium for having it cut to size etc. eg https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/hpl-sheets/?fwp_paged=2 you need to enter the size you want to get an accurate price, looks like you'd be paying about £80 depending on the colour and what extras you added.

 

[Johnking]

I guess a 'high pressure laminate' eg Trespa Meteon would work but not cheap, there are other manufacturers. It's typically used as an exterior cladding but it's also used for toilet partitions amongst other things so only available in massive sheets or you pay a premium for having it cut to size etc. eg https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/hpl-sheets/?fwp_paged=2 you need to enter the size you want to get an accurate price, looks like you'd be paying about £80 depending on the colour and what extras you added.

Interesting stuff - not much more expensive than a tile @ 6mm, which would be a perfect depth to recess in.

I'm now wondering if this might be better managed by pouring an opaque epoxy resin into the recess.

 

[opps]

Just wondering... If the worktop depth is 650mm, would you be able get the router close enough to the wall?

 

[Johnking]

Just wondering... If the worktop depth is 650mm, would you be able get the router close enough to the wall?

Just about, if I do the rear edge with a small trim router I have my eye on (Katsu)

 

[robinbanks]

Any water jet cutting places near you? They'll make a nice accurate job of cutting the sink hole in a tile, or the material FMT has recommended - WilsonArt Zenith and Sheridan Apollo are other brands I've used often. Finishing the edges will be easier with compact laminate than with tile

 

[Johnking]

Interesting! I'll look into it but sounds expensive for a basic bodge up

 

[opps]

I can't really picture what you are trying to do. Will it be a surface mount sink? Will the tap hole then run through the sink, tile and worktop? Or does it need to go through the tile and then the worktop. Either way, why not use a tile hole cutter that is the correct diameter, and then a cutter for the timber?

Apropos adhesives. I would recommend sealing the newly sealed worktop before dropping in the tile. Adhesives? I would use a Modified Silane (MS) Polymer such as CT1. Then run it around the edge of the tile where it meets the timber. You may need a 2 or 3mm expansion gap. Silicone profile tools will help to fill the gap.

eg https://www.screwfix.com/p/cramer-fugi-profiling-tool-kit-3-piece-set/646FN?tc=ST6

I don't know how long it will last though. The tile and timber will have different rates of expansion. The MS polymer should allow for those differential rates in the short term.

 

[Tigercubrider]

What about tempered glass rather than tile?
Expansion rates might still be an issue but it can be cut/drilled then tempered and be painted on the reverse before installation.

 

[Johnking]

Probably easier if I post a picture - this is what I'm dealing with. Really, just trying to do something that will make it a bit more tolerable for a year or two while I save for a new kitchen. The plan was to rout an apperture about 8mm deep in the red shape, and drop an appropriately cut tile (or something) in there, with suitable sealing and adhesive. I was attracted to tile because you can get really nice looking ones for £25 and this is not meant to be an expensive job. Some of the suggestions have been lovely but would cost way more than it's worth.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Ash Grey Matt Acrylic Splashback

Solid Coloured AcrylicMade in the UK

www.cutmy.co.uk

 

[Johnking]

Ash Grey Matt Acrylic Splashback

Solid Coloured AcrylicMade in the UK

www.cutmy.co.uk

Get scratched easily, wouldn't it?

 

[opps]

Is the wood really rotten? Sure, some towards the back of the sink looks like it is pretty rough. Could you not just remove any rotten timber and use epoxy resins such as Oxera

Rebuild Resin - 1 Hour Cartridge | Oxera

Product details summary 400ml system Cure time 50min - 60min (rapid cure) Flexible, tough, accurate mixing Small repairs Sill replacement repair for damaged wood SpecificationsCure time at 20°C: 50 - 60 minutesRecommended application temperature: 0 - 25°CReady to sand and paint: 1...

www.oxerarepair.co.uk

I am not a kitchen fitter, but your sink looks like it should have been under, rather than surface mount.