Mould issues, requiring work or not? Done DIY or not?

[JennyLaslo]

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a few issues at home and could really use some advice:

Air Filtration with PIV DriMaster:

I’m considering getting a PIV DriMaster for better air filtration and fresh air circulation. Will this help with air quality and mould prevention, or is it mainly for dealing with condensation (which I don’t currently get on my windows)?

After installing a PIV , the proposed solution after removing the boxed off toilet and cleaning the mould up is to clean and damp proof the mould from this in between the kitchen/toilet downstairs section between the studded wall. This would cost another £1000. Is this overkill for the issue at hand as the damp/mould in between will sort itself after the leak is gone? There was damp detected on this studded partition wall up to a certain level.

My mould issues seem to be purely from the fact there was a leak in the toilet downstairs and a leak from the roof upstairs, so is it more of a local leak issue? I have been seperately interested in the idea of having fresh air throughout the house without the windows being opened all the time, because for a long time I've found the house groggy to breathe in, but am concerned about the basic piv drimaster model running all the time, in case it becomes too cold in the house and hall. I've heard others turn it off when not sleeping to combat this and the basic version drimaster doesn't seem to have this option on some tutorial and review vids I found. I’ve seen some models have controls directly on the vent, but others switch etc.

Is it possible to have an electrician install the PIV instead of paying the £700+ installation fee?

In total this is going to cost after installing a new toilet and sink approx £1000 for the PIV Drimaster and £1000 for the knocking in of the wall and clean up for a £2000 + total.

Black Mould Issues:

I have black mould hiding behind cupboards upstairs that I've noticed since then, which is likely linked to the open roof issue causing water damage (roof tiles are giving way in another room/toilet).

If anyone has experience with PIV systems or dealing with hidden mould, your insights would be really helpful. Thanks!

 

[robinbanks]

If you didn't have a problem before, and the leak is sorted, why do you need the PIV?

 

[Koolpc]

Mould behind cupboards is due to lack of ventilation. And usually because the wall is very cold / external facing.

 

[JohnD]

There are mould spores in the air, everywhere, all the time.

They will grow if they have sufficient moisture and a comfortable temperature.

Repair your leaks or other sources of water, ventilate your house, use an effective extractor in the bathroom and kitchen, do not drape wet washing indoors, open the bedroom windows every morning after throwing back the covers.

Then see what else needs to be done.

 

[Diver Fred]

Whilst most people see condensation on windows (principally because glass is thin and conductive of heat) it should be appreciated that (uninsulated) brick walls are also cold and will conduct heat away from the inside of a house.
Cupboards and wardrobes close to a (cold) outside wall will get condensation and hence mould on the walls behind the furniture. Also if you use a portable gas fire that will cause condensation and black mould - you get a minimum of 1&1/4 litres of water for every Kg of gas burnt!

 

[noseall]

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a few issues at home and could really use some advice:

Air Filtration with PIV DriMaster:

I’m considering getting a PIV DriMaster for better air filtration and fresh air circulation. Will this help with air quality and mould prevention, or is it mainly for dealing with condensation (which I don’t currently get on my windows)?

After installing a PIV , the proposed solution after removing the boxed off toilet and cleaning the mould up is to clean and damp proof the mould from this in between the kitchen/toilet downstairs section between the studded wall. This would cost another £1000. Is this overkill for the issue at hand as the damp/mould in between will sort itself after the leak is gone? There was damp detected on this studded partition wall up to a certain level.

My mould issues seem to be purely from the fact there was a leak in the toilet downstairs and a leak from the roof upstairs, so is it more of a local leak issue? I have been seperately interested in the idea of having fresh air throughout the house without the windows being opened all the time, because for a long time I've found the house groggy to breathe in, but am concerned about the basic piv drimaster model running all the time, in case it becomes too cold in the house and hall. I've heard others turn it off when not sleeping to combat this and the basic version drimaster doesn't seem to have this option on some tutorial and review vids I found. I’ve seen some models have controls directly on the vent, but others switch etc.

Is it possible to have an electrician install the PIV instead of paying the £700+ installation fee?

In total this is going to cost after installing a new toilet and sink approx £1000 for the PIV Drimaster and £1000 for the knocking in of the wall and clean up for a £2000 + total.

Black Mould Issues:

I have black mould hiding behind cupboards upstairs that I've noticed since then, which is likely linked to the open roof issue causing water damage (roof tiles are giving way in another room/toilet).

If anyone has experience with PIV systems or dealing with hidden mould, your insights would be really helpful. Thanks!

You need to insulate the walls. Simple.

 

[robinbanks]

Incidentally, there isn't much difference between a PIV and opening your windows. If you want fresh air that doesn't push all your paid for heat out into the world you need a heat recovering ventilation system (MVHR)

Elsewhere you need to ensure, for such systems to be effective, that you don't have needless draughts. Draughtoroofing some houses is a reasonably intense undertaking depending on the quality of construction

 

[JennyLaslo]

The plumber suggested that if I replace the toilet and sink where the leak happened in the boxed off area, and bleached it down, that I wouldn't require doing anything with the studded gap between that toilet and the kitchen.
Damp proofers suggested I should be worried about dry rot in that area, the dampness detected on the wall up to a certain point, and the possibility of mushrooms growing later.
There is moisture and a lot of dirt or mould coming from that area kitchen side coming through. Better to clear it all out and plaster up or not?

 

[Diver Fred]

Installing a unit - if you don't have a heat exchanging version the installation is simple, the difficult choice is where to place the outlet. A heat exchanging version is somewhat more difficult as you have 2 vents in a ceiling, one in the loft venting outside, possibly anther in the loft for incoming air and a water drain pipe; that may require installation by an approved installer.

 

[JohnD]

Damp proofers

What are these?

Are they people selling chemical injections and plaster treatments that conceal damp without repairing the source of water?

 

[JennyLaslo]

Pretty much I think John. I was planning on having them sort out the studded wall partition connecting to the kitchen for £1k after the toilet was repaired and mould removed and the air was dehumidified for a while.
Sounds unnecessary or better way about it?
Thanks

 

[JennyLaslo]

If you didn't have a problem before, and the leak is sorted, why do you need the PIV?

I liked the idea of fresh air in the house. I constantly feel the need to have windows open, even if freezing in winter. Been that way for years. Not sure if it's the carpets, psychological, some other allergy, mould problems. Now I'm thinking PIV's really aren't the best for that, and in that regard would be just like having an open window anyway even with the filters and vent. Any other alternatives there for a fresher air quality around a two floor detached?

 

[Odds]

You need to insulate the walls. Simple.

Do you mean insulating them with foam in the air gap - assumng there is one - or using another method, like a protective liner, on the walls indoors?

 

[JohnD]

Pretty much I think John. I was planning on having them sort out the studded wall partition connecting to the kitchen for £1k after the toilet was repaired and mould removed and the air was dehumidified for a while.
Sounds unnecessary or better way about it?
Thanks

Fix the sources first.

Then see what else needs doing.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

If just one of your neighbours has a log burner then you probably don't want any sort of forced air system, sadly.

Stale indoor air is often better for your lungs than the outside air in the evenings in most neighbourhoods. Many places are back in dickensian times as far as outdoor air quality goes. The most idiotic fashion ever.

Open windows in the morning, change the air, then heat.