• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Wiring ceiling sconces and switch from a socket?

Joined
21 Jan 2025
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hello all!

I’m hoping to get some assistance/directions with this.

I live in a new built flat, so the wiring is pretty recent - if relevant.

I have bought 2 sets pendant light sconces (hanging from the ceiling) and I’m stuck as to where to get power from. (One for the sides of the bed and the others for either side of the sofa).

I cannot use the main light as obviously I’d like to light the sconces independently from the main light but I guess I could take connection from a nearby socket for light 1 and then daisy chain to light 2 (I’m ok with both being controlled with one switch as seems easiest solution).
Would I use 2.5 or 1.5 T&E for this?

The second part where I’m unsure as to how to proceed is the switch? What’s the easiest way to have one? - I’d be ok with something techy like a kinetic type switch or whatever too.

Walls are plasterboard and steel studs, so at least that’s good..

Thank you all.
 
The conventional way is to take a spur from the supply in the existing ceiling rose to a new rose and wire via the switch to one of the new lights and connect the second to the first. Sometimes the switch is used as the junction box instead of the ceiling rose. Others will argue for the simplicity of wireless switching but conventional physical cable has got to be more reliable in the long run.
 
A new house may only have supply at the light switch. Need to open and check.

I would use uPlighters on walls and try and just plug into sockets if near by.
 
Last edited:
Sconce

noun
a candle holder that is attached to a wall with an ornamental bracket.
"a wall sconce"
a flaming torch or candle secured in a sconce.
"the sconces burning in the passage provided some light"

That which I appear to be is a Pedant.
 
You could use an FCU as the switch. 2.5 T&E from the socket to the FCU, 3 A fuse, 1 mm T&E to the lights.
 
first of all, thank you all.
Guys I know they’re pendants!
I was just worried they might get confused for the normal light pendants you put as the main light.
Wanted to emphasise they’re to be used as you would wall sconces - as that’s what I was looking for when I found these!
 
You could use an FCU as the switch. 2.5 T&E from the socket to the FCU, 3 A fuse, 1 mm T&E to the lights.
That’s not a bad idea but the FCU would be hidden behind the sofa and the sofa is in the farthest corner from the entrance of the room.. so not sure if it’s the most logical placement for a switch..

But could work for a stretch I guess.


Just for my knowledge… is the FCU a requirement when spurring off a socket? And am I ok to use 1.5? As I already have that at home - I assume yes, just overkill possibly.


3 more questions:

1. How much above the socket vertically does the FCU needs to be?
2. Any tips for dropping and finding cable from the ceiling to the wall?
3. Could I somehow connect the FCU to a kinetic type switch to act as a secondary switch? (As in you could use either)
 
Sconce

noun
a candle holder that is attached to a wall with an ornamental bracket.
"a wall sconce"
a flaming torch or candle secured in a sconce.
"the sconces burning in the passage provided some light"

That which I appear to be is a Pedant.
This made me chuckle a bit.
Ok sir, I shall refer to you as Pedant from now on
 
Just for my knowledge… is the FCU a requirement when spurring off a socket? And am I ok to use 1.5? As I already have that at home - I assume yes, just overkill possibly.

Have you considered, simply wiring this up with flexible cable, either run from a plug, or from the centre ceiling light, if it includes a permanent live? You could simply drape the flexes, and light fitting from hooks on the ceiling, which is quite fashionable, and control them via smart switches. If/when you move, you can easily remove it and little damage to repair.
 
I was going to say earlier you could get away with using 1.5mm as a light won’t overload the circuit.

Ideally you want an fcu near the socket or at arm level. Then a kinetic switch receiver if the location isn’t good.

You can have multiple receivers to one switch by the door

Ideally get a twin back box (2 singles)
1 fcu 1 for receiver and blank on the front.
Bit ugly. Would be better to put receive in uplighter bottom if it will fit
 
Have you considered, simply wiring this up with flexible cable, either run from a plug, or from the centre ceiling light, if it includes a permanent live? You could simply drape the flexes, and light fitting from hooks on the ceiling, which is quite fashionable, and control them via smart switches. If/when you move, you can easily remove it and little damage to repair.
Unfortunately the style of them would not suit this.. the wall itself is also a very particular style with mauve wall on ceiling and wall and wall panelling, so not quite matching the style you mention..
A plug would have made my life so much easier, I even have the smart plug and switches!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7178.jpeg
    IMG_7178.jpeg
    679.7 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_7177.jpeg
    IMG_7177.jpeg
    275.7 KB · Views: 35
You could see if there‘s a permanent live at the light. If not, you could bypass the switch and fit multiple kinetic switches at the curren light.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top