Two rcbb. One tripped

[Murdochcat]

It won't help with a neutral/Earth fault, but simply provide misleading information.

Not sure I agree with you. Used this on many occasions to help the fault finding process

 

[Jurassicspark]

Faulty rcd or n-e

Haven't viewed the video yet as I'm in a meeting right now.

I can see disgusting holes in the top just from the thumbnail.

 

[pete01]

Not sure I agree with you. Used this on many occasions to help the fault finding process

Me too but hes saying (I think) it wont help find a neutral to earth fault which it wont.

But it's still a good starting point, I thought everyone did it.

 

[Murdochcat]

Me too but hes saying (I think) it wont help find a neutral to earth fault which it wont.

But it's still a good starting point, I thought everyone did it.

And these issues and extra costs stopped me fitting dual RCD boards a LONG time ago

 

[pete01]

And these issues and extra costs stopped me fitting dual RCD boards a LOMG time ago

They still get fitted in new builds, suppose if you've got to buy 100 you'll save fair bit.

 

[Murdochcat]

They still get fitted in new builds, suppose if you've got to buy 100 you'll save fair bit.

The dummies that updated the regs making “metal” boards the preferred solution should have “banned” use of dual RCD boards non compliant - which they really are as you can’t “minimise inconvenience” using dual boards

As for new builds you haven’t got a hope in hell limiting earth leakage across a number of MCBs

 

[EFLImpudence]

The dummies... ... should have “banned” use of dual RCD boards non compliant - which they really are as you can’t “minimise inconvenience” using dual boards

You can minimise the inconvenience for a dual RCD board when that is what you have.

 

[Murdochcat]

You can minimise the inconvenience for a dual RCD board when that is what you have.

Not easily and certainly not within DIY skill set

 

[Highway Man]

.

 

[Deleted member 142255]

The dummies that updated the regs making “metal” boards the preferred solution should have “banned” use of dual RCD boards non compliant - which they really are as you can’t “minimise inconvenience” using dual boards

As for new builds you haven’t got a hope in hell limiting earth leakage across a number of MCBs

That isn't what the regulation actually states. It gives steel as an example, not a requirement.

 

[Murdochcat]

That isn't what the regulation actually states. It gives steel as an example, not a requirement.

View attachment 372819

Hence why I put “metal” as most people see that as the regulation

 

[Deleted member 142255]

Hence why I put “metal” as most people see that as the regulation

Yes, but it is an example of non-combustible material, not a requirement that they must be metal.

 

[Highway Man]

Yes, but it is an example of non-combustible material, not a requirement that they must be metal.

I don't know of any other non combustable materials that a consumer unit is made of?

 

[Deleted member 142255]

I don't know of any other non combustable materials that a consumer unit is made of?

But if you read the reg paragraph (ii) it doesn't have to be a non-combustible consumer unit.

 

[ericmark]

And returning to @matlob problem. The main point, he is the landlord, not the tenant or homeowner. So he has no idea what the tenant has done. So back to the picture

fault can be lights, water heater, storage heater, kitchen sockets, or shower. Of these, the water heater and storage heater likely only active at night, likely off-peak only, so resetting the RCCB (RCD) assuming it will reset, does not really tell anyone what the fault was, we have an array of kitchen sockets which could have had anything plugged into them.

The RCD is unlikely to be faulty, but of course it could be, but to stop it happening again, some form of testing is called for. There are two ways to look for earth leakage. If the RCD does not reset, then we use a DC tester, this puts 500 volt DC on the circuit, and measures the resistance, and in general we look for over 1 MΩ. The problem is we are testing with DC, so capacitive or inductive leaking can result in a much higher leakage when using AC. (Machine often called a Mega and not really a device a DIY person can safely use.)

So if it does not trip, we use a clamp-on ammeter, we are allowed 30% back-ground leakage, so the limit with a 30 mA RCD for all circuits is 9 mA, clearly the meter must be able to measure 9 mA, so needs a scale with 1 mA increments. However, unlike the insulation tester, this tester does not require the user to open the consumer unit to do basic tests. I show here

how one can clamp it around the tails between the consumer unit and the electric meter and in this case show a total of 8 mA leakage, and turning the MCB's on/off one can work out what leakage is down to which circuit, so it can be safely done by anyone.

My meter cost around £35, I had a quick look with google

depending on who you get it from can cost a little more or less to what I paid, but once you have found the faulty circuit what then? Let's say for example you find the water heater is the problem, what can the landlord do then, he needs to call an electrician or a plumber, in the main both will do both the plumbing and electrical work, but what was the point in spending £35 on a tester, rather than getting an electrician in the first place.

He needs minor works certificates for the work done to keep with the EICR, so is not likely to DIY the work, if he had the electrical skills, he would not have asked the question.

For the owner occupier telling them how to DIY likely helps, not sure if it is really helping a landlord?