Halogen Bulbs to LEDs (Tranformer)

[flameport]

Just fitted an LED transformer

Of what type - fixed voltage or fixed current? And what voltage or current?

 

[Murdochcat]

No tranny with LV lights. Low voltage AC = 50–1000 volts, @ferkh10 is using ELV lamps or extra low voltage, so below 50 volts AC or 75 volts DC, this is UK not USA, only USA calls 12 volt low voltage, everywhere else it is extra low voltage.

Did I mention LV - no

And if you look at the ops photos you can clearly see the type of cable / connector they are

 

[333rocky333]

Now I’m more confused. Just fitted an LED transformer to that last bulb and now it doesn’t work at all. Do all of the bulbs in the circuit need to have a transformer fitted?

Maybe because you have fed the new one with only 12 volt from the existing power supply.
as asked earlier whats the white box with slots in, it looks like a power supply unit feeding the jb and white rectangular box that distributes out to all of the 12v lights

 

[SUNRAY]

Maybe because you have fed the new one with only 12 volt from the existing power supply.
as asked earlier whats the white box with slots in, it looks like a power supply unit feeding the jb and white rectangular box that distributes out to all of the 12v lights

I think that looks like an ATX PC style PSU, Of course it doesn't exclude it being repurposed for the lights.

 

[JohnW2]

Did I mention LV - no

If that's the case, how did someone else manage to post a message which appeared to be from you, which said:

LV lights have 3 points of failure…

 

[FrodoOne]

I have these 2 boxes (one black, one white) in the loft where the lighting cable goes into, then out of and services a set of 16 halogen downlights across 2 bathrooms.

Then this is what the connection to each downlight looks like.

Where do I put the transformer? Is it replacing the 2 boxes or do I need one transformer per bulb and put the transformer just above the bulb cable?

Whatever those two Junction Boxes in the 1st photo are doing, they should both be fixed to a Ceiling Joist, or some other solid timber
and
NOT be just "floating in space".

Also, what is that "telephone cable" or "bell wire" doing?
It looks as though it is going into the white "Junction Box", which appears to contain 230 V wiring !!!!!

There looks to be a (discarded ?) PC Power Supply lying there -
and I hope that the 230 V cable is not going into it - via a un-bushed "slot" !


As others have written,
forget about using 12 V transformers/power supplies,
replace the existing fittings with GU10 fittings
and
rewire them properly.

 

[ferkh10]

Sorry, been busy for a few days. Here’s what’s inside that white box.
It is an old PC PSU, it’s in the loft just stored with other PC bits - nothing to do with the lighting
Could well be an old wired house alarm (decommissioned) in the mix also.

As above, will rewire with GU10 fittings. Assume that will fix the flickering problem?
Finally, what’s the connecting block to use? Wagobox?

 

[SUNRAY]

Sorry, been busy for a few days. Here’s what’s inside that white box.
It is an old PC PSU, it’s in the loft just stored with other PC bits - nothing to do with the lighting
Could well be an old wired house alarm (decommissioned) in the mix also.

As above, will rewire with GU10 fittings. Assume that will fix the flickering problem?
Finally, what’s the connecting block to use? Wagobox?

There is more to this than meets the eyes.

Let's go back to the beginning, what lamps have you purchased: 12V or mains 230V?

Any chance of tracing the cables.

 

[333rocky333]

There is more to this than meets the eyes.

Let's go back to the beginning, what lamps have you purchased: 12V or mains 230V?

Any chance of tracing the cables.

Post 1 picture looks like a G5.3 push in 12 volt lampholder and MR16 12 volt lamp

 

[SUNRAY]

Post 1 picture looks like a G5.3 push in 12 volt lampholder and MR16 12 volt lamp

Yes I think that is correct but I have encountered them in mains voltage too... Yeah, total PITA when I replaced with 12V without realising the error. And so far we are not privy to any form of transformer but there is a 12V dc relay.

 

[ferkh10]

Here’s the LEDs I bought.

Integral LED 12V MR16 GU5.3 Lamp

Save energy by choosing these Integral LED lamps for all your indoor lighting requirements. The bulbs feature a stylishly engineered lens that produces a spotlight for directional lighting, allowing you to illuminate particular areas or highlight specific objects. This makes them a popular...

www.toolstation.com

Cables are under boards will loads of stuff to be moved to get them up, bit of a pita to trace

 

[FrodoOne]

will rewire with GU10 fittings.

and yet

Here’s the LEDs I bought.

Integral LED 12V MR16 GU5.3 Lamp

Save energy by choosing these Integral LED lamps for all your indoor lighting requirements. The bulbs feature a stylishly engineered lens that produces a spotlight for directional lighting, allowing you to illuminate particular areas or highlight specific objects. This makes them a popular...

www.toolstation.com

G10 lamps were originally
"Twist-lock 120 or 230-volt MR16 halogen lighting of 35/50 watt"

Now they are also supplied as 120 or 230-volt LED lamps.

"GU10" lamps are deliberately made with pins which will not fit into (other) "G" - 12 V sockets - and vice versa.

Cables are under boards will loads of stuff to be moved to get them up, bit of a pita to trace

Cables under boards - in the ceiling space ?!?!

There also seems to be an amount of "junk" in this celling space.


"Now-a-days" the old (usually narrow angle) Halogen Lamps are best replaced by wider angle "LED Downlights",
such as those in
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=led+do...refix=led+downlights,aps,362&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

While there are persons who think that it is a better idea to be able to replace a "bulb", rather than a whole "unit",
the "units" are so cheap, efficient, easily replaced and (relatively) long lasting that "LED Downlights" are a very good option.

Also, many come with the ability to change the "colour temperature" of each unit - at installation.

(Buying one or two "spares" may be a good option.)

 

[ferkh10]

Cheers, I could replace the whole unit with the above. The actual units are not under boards, the boards are through the middle of the loft and the units are at the side (not under boards). Would replacing all of the units solve the flickering problem though?

 

[flameport]

Would replacing all of the units solve the flickering problem though?

Yes - but only if you remove whatever transformers/drivers/converters/power supplies are there for the old lights, and preferably remove all of the junk and obsolete wiring.
New lights require a 230V AC supply.