I have moved from G5.3 to GU10 I am as an electrician confused by the bulb you show, it says bulb base MR16, we MR16 stands for multifaceted reflector 16/8th of an inch across, but G5.3 and GU10 can be MR16 so could a SES bulb, well maybe not today, as we don't have reflectors in many bulbs, so MR16 equivalent is more correct.
You normally find a G5.3 is 12 volts, but there are 120 volts versions, likely also 230 volts. And GU10 are normally 230 volts, but again they don't need to be that voltage. So the advert should state the voltage, also AC or DC, seems very poor not to state.
With 230 volts you can get smart bulbs, so I tend to move to 230 volt GU10, but it needs an earth at the bulb, which is why many stick with 12 volts.
So we need to consider the room's lighting as it is, how if any way it can be improved, what it will cost, and what to do when. LED lighting is causing many problems, as it is not a direct replacement for tungsten, typical LED lamp,

looks like this inside, and it does not matter if it looks like a spotlight or candle outside, so want to ensure the light is reflected off light coloured services to get the spread. There are exceptions, but

most are rather simple, so before paying out a fortune on bulbs, you need to decide what you want. The directional lamp

allows one to aim light to dark corners, but the down light

typically aims the light at a dark floor where it is absorbed, so a
bit no more like a lot, useless for lighting, but in the days of the tungsten lamps did at least warm the room.
But down to looks, or practical, my wife's Jag looks good, my Honda Jazz is far more practical, and the same goes with lighting. So add
to the price of the bulb, and £15.39 per bulb change is getting expensive, so now is the time to change if you want to.