Wiring a smart thermostat to my combo boiler - not working

Joined
8 Nov 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
Hey guys, so I’ve got an (admittedly cheap) smart thermostat that i want to wire to my Glowworm Easicom 28c. However, after following some installation guides I’m not having any luck.

In the first pic (which was taken before I wired the thermostat in) - I’ve wired the thermostat to the circled yellow area on the left, with obviously thermostat live going to boiler live, and same for neutral. I’ve then wired another wire (I have a 4 + earth cable) to the RT terminal on the boiler, and I’ve tried connecting the other end to 4 on my thermostat and had no luck. Also tried to 5 instead.

I’ve also removed a small red wire linking RT to 24V on the right of the boiler (circled in yellow on the right)

The thermostat powers on as does the boiler, but I don’t think it’s communicating with the boiler properly - I.e it’s not managing to turn the heating on.

Have I missed any obvious steps? Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5546.jpeg
    IMG_5546.jpeg
    341.2 KB · Views: 42
  • IMG_5549.png
    IMG_5549.png
    1,003.1 KB · Views: 38
Just tried putting the dry contacts to RT/24V on the right, no luck :(
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5557.jpeg
    IMG_5557.jpeg
    271.2 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_5558.jpeg
    IMG_5558.jpeg
    310.4 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_5554.jpeg
    IMG_5554.jpeg
    221.2 KB · Views: 22
It looks like your new thermostat doesn't support 24v so that won't work. You need a link wire between L and 3. 4 to RT on mains voltage side on green block.
 
It looks like your new thermostat doesn't support 24v so that won't work.
1760080663311.png
I thought dry contact means the same as non volt contact so it can be any voltage, as long and the low voltage (230 VAC) and extra low voltage (under 50 volts AC) are not run in the same cables, or use special cables with built-in screen?

To my mind, the start point is to download the installation manual. OT-lodgic.jpg There is often multi methods, and it will explain what bridge wires are required etc. Each boiler is slightly different, and some for some unknown reason put the terminals inside gas tight enclosures, so with that type you need to be gas safe to wire them up.
 
From the picture, 4 and 5 on the thermostat do the switching so connect one of them across to Live with a short wire and connect the other to RT on the boiler plug where you have tapped off the mains power.
That’s the turquoise plug, NOT the 24V one.
 
Last edited:
View attachment 395230 I thought dry contact means the same as non volt contact so it can be any voltage, as long and the low voltage (230 VAC) and extra low voltage (under 50 volts AC) are not run in the same cables, or use special cables with built-in screen?
Yeah I thought that too, but might have been getting confused with the input 100-230vac. I would have thought it would work with the 24v and perhaps there's a switch not selected on the boiler. @Chris7197 hasn't responded to messages, so maybe it's fixed.
 
Thanks guys - in work atm so can’t try, but I’ll try bridging the L to 3 (or 4? Is that ok as it’s a ‘dry contact’?)
 
Thanks guys - in work atm so can’t try, but I’ll try bridging the L to 3 (or 4? Is that ok as it’s a ‘dry contact’?)
Thanks for replying. Yes it's fine to link the L to 3, 4 to RT on turquoise block. Dry contact basically means it doesn't supply voltage, voltage is supplied to and from it.
 
Since not sure which connections you are using in boiler, low voltage or extra low voltage I would keep the two sets of terminals 1760093632165.png circled in red and blue apart. If you connect the wires in 4 and 5 together, the boiler should run.
 
Cheers guys, trying later. I do have this from the boiler manual and also some diagrams from the manual for the thermostat..I’ve just noticed that it actually says RT for 6/7 on the right of the thermostat (for gas boiler), which I somehow didn’t notice. Maybe that changes things l?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5495.jpeg
    IMG_5495.jpeg
    207.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_5441.jpeg
    IMG_5441.jpeg
    309.3 KB · Views: 16
Just tried putting the dry contacts to RT/24V on the right, no luck :(
Ok so some progress lol - in this configuration is is getting closer…when the thermostat requests heating, the radiator icon on the boiler starts flashing, but it doesn’t actually turn the burner on. After a few minutes the radiator icon stops flashing. If I get to to request heat again - the radiator icon doesn’t flash again until I turn the boiler off and on again

Going to recheck all my connections later to make sure they’re tight etc
 
Does the boiler have an i button to press?
 
Last edited:
The photos arent terribly clear but it looks like a cable wired into the Ebus port on the white ELV connector, this together with the fact the 24V link was in suugests you already have a manufacturers Ebus based control installed, It needs to be one or the other not both.
 
The photos arent terribly clear but it looks like a cable wired into the Ebus port on the white ELV connector, this together with the fact the 24V link was in suugests you already have a manufacturers Ebus based control installed, It needs to be one or the other not both.
I was actually about to come on here to post again, I remembered earlier we were given a slightly rubbish remote control which we haven’t used and that was what was stopping it working. Doh! Thanks for your help :)
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top