How to connect power to LEDs in shelf safely

[Yukster]

I built shelve with LEDs. I'd be grateful for advice on how to connect them safely/correctly.

One of the top shelf wires is the mains supply that is run from a light switch which will be connected to the driver AC in. The driver DC end will be connected to the to shelf LED and to the the second wire that is chased into the wall onto the middle shelf. that is connected to the middle shelf LED and paired with a wire that is going to the bottom shelf LED in a series circuit. see below a diagram that Gemini drew from my description.

What is the correct way to connect the DC wires pairs, and what wire connectors would you recommend? Is it okay to place the connected DC wires in a cavity inside the wooden shelves?

TIA

 

[ericmark]

I would think there will be no problem the way you have shown. The problem is lighting manufacturers seem to swap names as they fancy, so the power supply dictates how wired. Technically a driver is a fixed current power supply, and the voltage can vary, but often we have fixed voltage power supplies also called drivers.

Fixed current the LED's wired in series, fixed voltage they are wired in parallel. In your diagram can't work out what method you are using?

I found the kits came with power supplies built into the plug, or other fixed design which resulted in having multi-power supplies, and the junction being in the low voltage side (230 volts) not the extra low voltage side (12 or 24 volts) and I had to build a plinth to hide sockets, smart socket adaptors, power supplies, and controllers. I also maybe made an error not fitting something to hide the actual LED strip, see what you think. At full output they light that side of the room, which is what I wanted 2 x 18 watt, + 24 watt centre down to floor, but as just a display needs to be turned down, so all strips are on smart controllers to both vary the colour and output.

The first one (centre) I got from Lidi, and never seen repeated, the outer two from Screwfix, lucky centre one has not failed, a power supply failed with one of the outers, but replaced under warrantee, one advantage buying from local shops not internet.

The use of smart controls, means before going to bed, one voice command "hey google turn off living room" turns off all lights, last house it was a pain to go around turning off lights, so all the work setting it up was never used after the first month or so, it was not the turning on, but the going around turning off, up lights, spotlights, and display lights, so much easier with smart controls.

 

[Yukster]

I would think there will be no problem the way you have shown. The problem is lighting manufacturers seem to swap names as they fancy, so the power supply dictates how wired. Technically a driver is a fixed current power supply, and the voltage can vary, but often we have fixed voltage power supplies also called drivers.

Fixed current the LED's wired in series, fixed voltage they are wired in parallel. In your diagram can't work out what method you are using?

I found the kits came with power supplies built into the plug, or other fixed design which resulted in having multi-power supplies, and the junction being in the low voltage side (230 volts) not the extra low voltage side (12 or 24 volts) and I had to build a plinth to hide sockets, smart socket adaptors, power supplies, and controllers. I also maybe made an error not fitting something to hide the actual LED strip, see what you think. View attachment 409253At full output they light that side of the room, which is what I wanted 2 x 18 watt, + 24 watt centre down to floor, but as just a display needs to be turned down, so all strips are on smart controllers to both vary the colour and output.

The first one (centre) I got from Lidi, and never seen repeated, the outer two from Screwfix, lucky centre one has not failed, a power supply failed with one of the outers, but replaced under warrantee, one advantage buying from local shops not internet.

The use of smart controls, means before going to bed, one voice command "hey google turn off living room" turns off all lights, last house it was a pain to go around turning off lights, so all the work setting it up was never used after the first month or so, it was not the turning on, but the going around turning off, up lights, spotlights, and display lights, so much easier with smart controls.

I am using this driver.
The LEDs are wired in series.
What good quality and small cable connectors would you recommend?

 

[ericmark]

A white LED is typically 3 volts, so for 12 volts often 3 LEDs and a resistor (driver) in series, then all those groups are wired in parallel.

 

[Yukster]

A white LED is typically 3 volts, so for 12 volts often 3 LEDs and a resistor (driver) in series, then all those groups are wired in parallel.

The LED I used is 12V COB LED Strip. I wouldn't make too much o the drawing. As mentioned it was generated by Gemini and I am not sure it is accurate.

 

[mattylad]

What is going on here: (top shelf)

It looks like black connects to red.
Also there is no connection from the 12v red line to the other red lines?

The middle shelf also has a problem:

Black comes out of the red?

 

[mattylad]

In fact I'd get rid of the entire middle black and red, if I understand this correctly - to connect to each shelf you are coming from the left side of the wago's where the wiring will be hidden in the wall.
On the diagram show the connection going to them on the left, not the middle otherwise the entire wago left side seems obsolete?

 

[mattylad]

Also, "3 port wago"? ALL ports on a wago are connected together so your showing red & black going into one is going to end up in a short circuit.

If your wiring them in series then on the drawing show this, entering one end and leaving the other end to connect to the next led strip.

 

[ericmark]

I can see righthand side working, but all the Wago connectors etc. Don't make sense.

 

[Echo the husky]

I can see righthand side working, but all the Wago connectors etc. Don't make sense.

Looks like AI generated nonsense to me.