Salus iT500rx Receiver

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Hi,

I would appreciate if anyone could offer any advice on the below issue please.

There was a power outage yesterday and since then our iT500rx receiver is completely dead - no lights on the front at all.

I removed the cover and checked that there was mains voltage going to the input and also from there to the display board (with the slide switches & leds) - voltage checked with DMM and appears to be ok.

This model is obsolete now, so I’m guessing it’s not going to be a quick fix, so I was wondering if there was a way for me to bypass the receiver and get the hot water to work in the meantime. However, when I took the cover off the receiver, there were a lot more wires than I was expecting to see! Would it be as easy as linking from COM to NO on the AUX output side?

Thank you,
J
 

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It would appear that you have figured it out. (y)

Check that the two far right terminals are marked AUX NO and AUX COM. If so, you can remove all three wires from the both of these it500 terminals and join them all together in a separate connector.

It's important that they are removed from the Salus before being joined together to prevent the wire in the AUX NC (Hot Water Off) receiving power.
 
Hi Stem,

Thanks very much for taking the time to reply and so quickly as well. Really appreciate your advice - especially regarding putting the wires in a separate connector block. I was thinking about linking them in place until you mentioned it.

The boiler is running now, so at least we’ll have hot water until a replacement can be fitted.

Many thanks,
J
 
Hard to tell from the photo, but the resistor (D7) above Relay 2 looks to have possible thermal damage. New Salus stuff is supposed to be ok, but they have always been renowned for being poor quality. Maybe try a different brand?
 
Not sure about the diode, but I’ve ordered another Salus iT500 - only because I thought it would be easier for me to replace a like-for-like model.

It’s obsolete now, but I managed to order from a site who showed as having 1 in stock - not completely confident they do though. If they don’t manage to fulfil my order, what alternative would you suggest for the iT500 and my setup.

It currently operates underfloor heating in one area and also the hot water. The boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Ri.

Thanks
 
If they don’t manage to fulfil my order, what alternative would you suggest for the iT500 and my setup.
A few to choose from, but: EPH as mentioned above, Esi stratus or Mistral, Drayton Wiser, Tado, Hive, Honeywell T6RHW. Might be some others as well.
 
I’ve been quoted £390 for someone to supply and fit a Hive - does that seen about right?
 
I’ve been quoted £390 for someone to supply and fit a Hive - does that seen about right?
Maybe, I’m not self employed so have no idea on costs, seems steep imo. Would you not be comfortable doing it yourself with guidance from us on here?
 
Based on my photo of the current wiring above, do you think this would be fairly easy to transfer over to the hive? I will have a look for the correct wiring diagram.
I think I’m just put off by the number of wires and not being able to trace where some go/what they’re for.
 
Last edited:
Looking at the Honeywell T6RHW now - will this be the wiring diagram I follow to replace my Salus iT500? Thanks
 

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Looking at the Honeywell T6RHW now - will this be the wiring diagram I follow to replace my Salus iT500? Thanks
If you have an S plan yes. I can only see one orange wire, but no white. Do you know how many motorised valves you have?
 
There are 2 motorised valves, but only one seems to be wired to the Salus. The wires for the other one go off in another direction.
Not sure, but that could be for radiators in original part of house - they are operated by an old Honeywell thermostat. Salus operates one underfloor heating zone and hot water.
 
Not sure, but that could be for radiators in original part of house - they are operated by an old Honeywell thermostat. Salus operates one underfloor heating zone and hot water.
If that's the case, either the ufh and hot water is on a 3 port valve or it's just one zone? Unless some wires go off to another motorised valve.
 

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