Painting Dry Verge ?

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Hello folks

Does anyone know if it is practical or worthwhile to paint dry verge units , please?

Ours are getting on for 20 years old , but still in good condition apart from having faded from the original black colour

If it's worth doing , and will last , I'll do it myself and hopefully save the cost of replacement

Thanks
 
Painting masonry is fine for people who do not know what they are doing .
I've never seen a car bumper on a house.

The immediate effect is irrelevant - the long term consequences are significant.
 
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Personally i have no problem with using masonry paint or plastic paint.
Example......my B&Q composite front door was coated with Bedec MSp (Multi Surface Paint) some years ago. The gloss is still great, no peel or discolouration, looks as good as new. No primer required, it's Oxford blue.
The pebble dashing on my 2nd gaff (called hard cast render here as they use whin stone) had been sprayed white, and naturally enough overspray was evident on the SVP and down comers. I treated this with B&Q black gloss and that too has remained stable.
Rain casts off the render perfectly well, and there isn't any damp anywhere.
Car plastics (ABS usually) are different - they need a special primer which is clear and colourless, and very thin.
John :)
 
Painting masonry is fine for people who do not know what they are doing .
I've never seen a car bumper on a house.

The immediate effect is irrelevant - the long term consequences are significant.
and you'll never tell us what they are
 
Painting masonry is fine for people who do not know what they are doing .
I've never seen a car bumper on a house.

The immediate effect is irrelevant - the long term consequences are significant.
So why do they make paint especially for uvpc.?
And masonry paint?
 
Hello folks

Does anyone know if it is practical or worthwhile to paint dry verge units , please?
The second you paint or render any part of a building, you immediately introduce a maintenance issue. Success will depend on the prep. The better the prep the longer lasting the finish. I doubt anyone is going to spend a lot of time prepping a dry verge.

I wouldn't. I'm tempted to get my (metal) garage door re-sprayed, but that is on the ground and can be meticulously prepped.
 
Poster #9,
They, the Mrf's, make anything that they can sell to anyone who will buy their hyped-up products, surely you know that?
Expansion in plastics is often significant - the built-in expansion gaps needed in upvc or ABS gutters is an example of plastic expansion.
Expansion can open the paintwork to moisture.
External plastic surfaces dont take kindly to paint.

Once you have painted masonry or render (mortar) then it becomes almost impossible to totally remove it. The masonry surface will sometimes be damaged by trying to remove paint.
Painted masonry is well known for allowing water penetration which will often lead to unsightliness and damaged masonry.
 
Poster #9,
They, the Mrf's, make anything that they can sell to anyone who will buy their hyped-up products, surely you know that?
Expansion in plastics is often significant - the built-in expansion gaps needed in upvc or ABS gutters is an example of plastic expansion.
Expansion can open the paintwork to moisture.
External plastic surfaces dont take kindly to paint.

Once you have painted masonry or render (mortar) then it becomes almost impossible to totally remove it. The masonry surface will sometimes be damaged by trying to remove paint.
Painted masonry is well known for allowing water penetration which will often lead to unsightliness and damaged masonry.
Painted all my Uvpc , still good after 20years .
 
Painted masonry is well known for allowing water penetration which will often lead to unsightliness and damaged masonry.
Not really. Poor quality masonry paint, especially on badly prepared walls, will crack and allow water penetration, plus will not permit evaporation, leading to moisture retention. Prepare your walls and use quality breathable paint and you can reduce water absorption to practically zero, and your paintwork is good for 20 years. It's a broadly universal concept. Use the correct materials for the job and expect success.
 
Poster#14,
Really. Its an even more universally held building trade experience that painting masonry is not a success.

1. How do you prep damp sodden brickwork?
2. How do you prep damp sodden solid walls esp walls with rubble infill?
3. Or damp cavity walls with sodden CWI?
4. How do you prep rising damp on external surfaces?
5. Do you claim your that best practice is to patch render, and replace spalled brickwork? Do you rake & re-point?
 

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