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Why a double socket for one appliance?
Is this legal?
- Thread starter SJRSJR
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If both the oven and hob are on full then @ 230V you will be drawing around 45A. I understand diversity can be applied to this situation as you are unlikely to be running them on full power together (if you were then the 40A MCB may trip).
10mm t+e is enough for this setup in most installation methods.
I'm sure the regualrs on here would like to see a picture of inside the CU - if you feel confident enough to take the front cover off and take a pic. Turn the main switch off first.
10mm t+e is enough for this setup in most installation methods.
I'm sure the regualrs on here would like to see a picture of inside the CU - if you feel confident enough to take the front cover off and take a pic. Turn the main switch off first.
Seriously?
View media item 2902Bongos said:
That was quick!
I can't see any main bonding conductors. These should run from the earth bar (top left of CU) to the water/gas pipes.
Also the 6A MCB on the far left on the RCD side appears to have nothing attached to it (or is that just my eyes!)
I'm not an electrician (just an enthusiastic DIYer) but the lack of main earth bonding is definately a worry
I can't see any main bonding conductors. These should run from the earth bar (top left of CU) to the water/gas pipes.
Also the 6A MCB on the far left on the RCD side appears to have nothing attached to it (or is that just my eyes!)
I'm not an electrician (just an enthusiastic DIYer) but the lack of main earth bonding is definately a worry
Its a 16 bongos
looks like 1 main earth
4 circuit earths and 3 ring earths (two in each)
no sign of any bonding wires in there
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I was just wondering, are you sure that the cooker circuit cable is 10mm - how do you know, you cant just measure it, as 10mm is its cross sectional area. Sorry if you knew this already, just checking what you have said and the answers people have given are correct.
Well maybe not that humble...
Or from the MET to the pipes.
Except there isn't a MET.
This is not looking good - really do need to find out what's at the gas/water entry point(s)....
10, I hope, what with there being 10 conductors coming out of the MCBs....
I'm not sure of anything anymore! I do remember on the first visit he asked me the rating of the hob then said I would not need a separate cable to the CU as the existing cable was 10mm and could take both. I've just pulled out the microwave above the oven and taken a picture of what's behindSpace cat said:
View media item 2904Does it look like 10mm?
Can you point me in the direction of what it should have please? I'm conscious I'm just a punter and not talking anyone's language here, but thanks for all you patience and input.333rocky333 said:
You're supposed to have a single yellow and green, quite fat (10mm sq) cable running from your gas meter (from the pipes on your side, within 60cm) if you have gas and from your water stopcock, again within 60cm of the stopcock on your side, or in the case of no stopcock within 60cm of the water pipe entering your property. Same applies to other incoming services - heating oil for example. This/these cables should run from the incoming services to the earth bar in the fuseboard, or to an earth block somewhere outside the fuseboard (Main Earth Terminal).
These are called main bonds - main equipotential bonding conductors (might have a new name in the 17th). They provide another way for current to flow to earth, and ultimately disconnect the supply in the event of a fault, where the main earth had failed for some reason. Probably other reasons to have them as well ? ? ? anyone?
This is one of the basic requirements of doing additions and alterations to an installation. If you don't have them -you dont by the looks of things- your spark wont be able to tick the correct box on the cert and it should not pass . . . but then there's plenty of other things that would fail as well - unsheathed t&e, cooker isolator in cupboard, cables not clipped etc that people have pointed out.
^^ subject to correction by those who really know what they're on about! ^^
These are called main bonds - main equipotential bonding conductors (might have a new name in the 17th). They provide another way for current to flow to earth, and ultimately disconnect the supply in the event of a fault, where the main earth had failed for some reason. Probably other reasons to have them as well ? ? ? anyone?
This is one of the basic requirements of doing additions and alterations to an installation. If you don't have them -you dont by the looks of things- your spark wont be able to tick the correct box on the cert and it should not pass . . . but then there's plenty of other things that would fail as well - unsheathed t&e, cooker isolator in cupboard, cables not clipped etc that people have pointed out.
^^ subject to correction by those who really know what they're on about! ^^
There's no need for me to add to any of the issues indicated so far, but none of the cables at the CU are new (old colours ).
So again if your 'spark' has added new circuits or changed old ones to higher ratings I would have expected post 05 cable colours.
The guys work is very poor, this is either simple ignorance, cowboy morals or you insisting the job was as cheap as chips (or a combination of all elements).
I would suggest you tell him what you have discovered and see what his intentions are regarding remedial and fit for purpose works.
He should complete an Electrical Installation certificate (EIC) showing full test results and signing compliance with 16th (or if started after 1-7-08 17th). Problem is that often these are only given on final works payment and if you don't pay him- you won't get the certificate.
If you lay him off, then a new spark could reject any work offers because he may argue that he is duty bound under his registration scheme to only sign off his own work.
Have a full PIR carried out (when you spark finishes), then use the report points as his snagging list- withhold money until he complies with the list and take the PIR fee off his end bill.
He should be shamefaced and since you have a report of the overall condition, safety, work standard, functionality and design if he refuses to play ball send it to the scheme provider asking for them to resolve the issues at their cost.
Simply put, you wouldn't have used the guy if you didn't think his work would be to a professional standard and in keeping with standards and regs (which are assessed by the scheme providers)- by carrying a scheme providers membership they should be accountable for any wayward sheep in the flock.
).So again if your 'spark' has added new circuits or changed old ones to higher ratings I would have expected post 05 cable colours.
The guys work is very poor, this is either simple ignorance, cowboy morals or you insisting the job was as cheap as chips (or a combination of all elements).
I would suggest you tell him what you have discovered and see what his intentions are regarding remedial and fit for purpose works.
He should complete an Electrical Installation certificate (EIC) showing full test results and signing compliance with 16th (or if started after 1-7-08 17th). Problem is that often these are only given on final works payment and if you don't pay him- you won't get the certificate.
If you lay him off, then a new spark could reject any work offers because he may argue that he is duty bound under his registration scheme to only sign off his own work.
Have a full PIR carried out (when you spark finishes), then use the report points as his snagging list- withhold money until he complies with the list and take the PIR fee off his end bill.
He should be shamefaced and since you have a report of the overall condition, safety, work standard, functionality and design if he refuses to play ball send it to the scheme provider asking for them to resolve the issues at their cost.
Simply put, you wouldn't have used the guy if you didn't think his work would be to a professional standard and in keeping with standards and regs (which are assessed by the scheme providers)- by carrying a scheme providers membership they should be accountable for any wayward sheep in the flock.
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