Gable end

Thanks woody that's what I'll do
It was more out of curiosity on builds where you've got trusses is it acceptable not to have a fair face in the loft space. I could see people not being happy if they have loft access and get to see them.
I guess the best I can do it just cut the snots off flush and keep the joints full.
 
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You can clamber across the trusses and do a bit of pointing/filling afterwards if you like and are careful. But TBH, it does not really matter.
 
I'm not sure what when on on site before the 70's, or 80's.:whistle: .
Bears arse and wandering perps come to mind - then there was The Lump. Brickies tearing round in old Jags (to work) and leaving site for an extra 1/- an hour up the road.;) Enough bricks buried in gardens to build another house.
 
I didn't have rafters or a ridge in place for mine so underbuilt it then went back and cut/fitted the triangles and restraint straps. Compete faff.

Next time I'll spend more time mocking it up with some battens to act as dummy rafters and do it in one go.
 
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Bears arse and wandering perps come to mind - then there was The Lump. Brickies tearing round in old Jags (to work) and leaving site for an extra 1/- an hour up the road.;) Enough bricks buried in gardens to build another house.

Yeah I missed the good 'ole days.

Seriously, I missed the good old days by a couple of decades. :rolleyes:

I've heard about them though.
 
I'm getting there slowly with it (see pic,) and managed to totally cock up the bond exactly as Stuart said. I will do my best to avoid doing so again!
Last question (hopefully) I am using full fill dritherm and have continued it up above the ceiling, but if I stop using it further up, I'm worried I'll end up dropping mortar snots as I go up, and I'll end up with a damp bridge across the cavity on top of the insulation further down.
Alternatively I could just carry the dritherm all the way up to the top. Or could I put some DPM in where I stop the dritherm to avoid any damp issue caused by mortar droppings?
Any tips on the best way people normally do this much appreciated!
 

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Fully fill the gable.

In reference to the brickwork - it is possible to just bed a brick at each end of the gable run then hammer the line pins into the tops of the ladder noggs. You then just weight the line down onto the single brick. The beauty of this method is that you can leave the lines in place for a while and lift and trap the line as you go up.
 
Thanks, so you just bed a brick each end and don't build the little pyramids?
 
I'm getting there slowly with it (see pic,) and managed to totally cock up the bond exactly as Stuart said. I will do my best to avoid doing so again!
Last question (hopefully) I am using full fill dritherm and have continued it up above the ceiling, but if I stop using it further up, I'm worried I'll end up dropping mortar snots as I go up, and I'll end up with a damp bridge across the cavity on top of the insulation further down.
Alternatively I could just carry the dritherm all the way up to the top. Or could I put some DPM in where I stop the dritherm to avoid any damp issue caused by mortar droppings?
Any tips on the best way people normally do this much appreciated!
There is no point insulating any higher than you have done. You protect the top of the insulation with a cavity tray..
 
Thanks I did think of that, for the extra cost I will probably just stick with insulating it, less scope for me to mess it up! Good to know the cavity tray is also a valid approach though
 

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