Gable end

[23vc]

Hi
Appreciate this has been covered a lot previously so it's only a quick question, my plan for building my gable wall is to do everything from outside the building, build the blockwork up first by building up each end 3 blocks high (pyramid ish) and running the line across. Building in the restraint straps as I go
Then also doing brick pyramids in the same way for the outer skin.
Has anyone done it this way and can confirm its possible? I've got a feeling noseall has posted in the past saying he does similar? Time isn't really an issue I know it'll take me ages!
My thinking is if I take my time and really pay attention to keeping it all plumb then it'll work ok....
Cheers
John

 

[^woody^]

That's how all the sane people do it

 

[23vc]

Thanks woody, although I recall you've got a different method from a post ages ago, but I didn't really understand it.

 

[^woody^]

I recall you've got a different method from a post ages ago, but I didn't really understand it.

Really? That could be awkward. What post is that, and I'll see if I can understand it?

 

[23vc]

Lol. I only pointed it out as I value your opinion
It was something about building up temporary block deadmen.

 

[stuart45]

A deadman can be a number of things in the building trade. Before the early 70's when large sites needed extra labour you could turn up, give any name and address and be paid in cash in a wage packet at the end of the week. Some of the foremen would invent an extra name or 2 and pocket the packets.
This was known as booking in deadmen.
What woody probably means was putting up a temporary brick pier to pull the line off so it's plumb and to gauge.
A deadman can also be someone who didn't spot the trap in the boards.

 

[23vc]

Thanks Stuart yeah I understood that it was temporarily piers but couldn't visualise how to actually do it on a gable. I think I'll stick with the little pyramid method especially as woody has ok'd it

 

[stuart45]

Key thing on face brickwork on the gable is to make sure you keep the perps plumb with below. A lot of trowels tend to come in slightly each course as they have not got a corner to work from. Probably caused on site if they are in a rush and under pressure to produce, but you often see the perps taking a walk on gable ends.

 

[23vc]

Thanks Stuart do you mean the bond goes wrong? The thing I'm worried about is hatching or whatever it's called when the brick face doesn't quite line up with above, as I've been spoiled by using my Blake's profiles ! Oh well I'll take my time getting the pyramids spot on, another learning curve

 

[stuart45]

Thanks Stuart do you mean the bond goes wrong?

That's what can happen. Sometimes they run in the brickwork and end up with a 3/4 in the middle.

 

[23vc]

Cool, thanks for the tip

 

[^woody^]

I'm not sure what when on on site before the 70's, or 80's. . A deadman is some plumbed bricks or a block to pull a line off. The older generation may have their own versions of deadman. I accept that.

But I was really just condoning the principle in the OP, not the detail.

To keep the perps plumb, start each course from the middle of the gable. Obviously keep the middle brick plumb.

Put your profiles on the corners and that will get you half way up the gable.

 

[23vc]

Excellent, thanks

 

[23vc]

Sorry one last question, for the inner skin blockwork, I was planning on laying them normally with the string line towards me, but I've seen references here (noseall?) That this is overhand work, presumably this relates to whether you want the blocks in the loft area to look good? This loft won't be accessible to I don't think it's an issue?

 

[^woody^]

With overhand, you won't see the line once the wall is past chest height and you won't see the bottom of the block to align once the wall is past waist height anyway, and the truss prevents you adjustjng the block, so any perceived idea of getting a fair face with overhand goes out the window whether there is a window in the gable or not.

Put the line on the face facing you as normal.

Remember that the horizontal truss bracing timber is cut flush with the wall to to stop the trusses wobbling, and is not built in. Only the straps are built in.