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Just get an electrician to fix it however they deem best, and deduct the cost from the kitchen fitters bill?

The washing machine and dishwasher waste connectors can be blanked off if they aren't needed...

Summat like this? Would have to 'roll your own' grid switch, one Quinetic module and one normal two way switch...

It's just a shame that we have a government who's stated aim is to increase the wealth of the richest 1% of the country regardless of the cost to the other 99% of the country... This is the overall aim of conservatives. It is what they desire, believe to be morally right, and seek to bring...

For the new flex, maybe something like this...

Don't forget, if a light downstream of the one you are working on has its switch turned on, the neutral coming back from it into the fitting you are working on will show as being live, if the live wire is connected. If it all works when put back together I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Your meter has (somehow) forgotten that it should be switching on the off-peak power during the off-peak hours, which will charge the storage heaters. Sounds like a job for the meter-fitters, to put in a new off-peak meter. Mention to them that you won't be paying them until they sort it out -...

Is this any help? Not used them myself, but could be an option to do what it sounds like you want to do:

"Tories hate normal working people"... This is hardly news, sadly. Keep it in mind at the next election, though.

Any local business that 'does electronics' probably has a lab tech who would do a small job like this gladly in exchange for a case of beer - if you're in south Devon, I would :)

Personally, I'd do each side of the bed individually, so a 13A plug to 1.5mm flex, to the new double socket outlet and on to a 3A fused FCU which will act as your light switch. Repeat on the other side of the bed and job's a goodun. HTH

Probably the clips that should hold the fuse being a bit loose, giving a bad connection. This causes heat, which makes them looser, so more heat etc. The cure is obvious, a new plug and probably socket as well. Fit something decent like an MK or Crabtree plug and socket, not a B&Q 99p cheapie...

I can't see any reason why that wouldn't be OK. Worth keeping a key somewhere memorable, just in case you ever need to kill the power in a hurry, though.

Personally I would cut through the cable and add a single socket to the end of it. Then plug the new oven in there. That way there's no loose wiring flapping about (very dangerous!) and the oven is controlled by the cooker switch.

Criminal charges and/or private prosecution against the individuals responsible.

Do you have a single phase DB or a three phase DB (or both) in the house? Within easy-ish reach of the kitchen? What (if any) cabling is in place already? I'd guess at going single phase from what's been said so far, but the above might throw some other options up. Cheers, Colin

To be honest, it does sound as though you've 'been had'. I'd suggest a recorded delivery letter to who-ever you paid (that's who your contract is with, any use of subbies etc is their choice, and their problem to sort out if it goes wrong). Outline the problems and give them a reasonable...

Daft question, but will it not go down again OK, even if not quite as well as before? If covering it with underlay and then carpet, a hardboard layer should hide a multitude of sins and be a lot cheaper and easier than new flooring. Or do they mean that cables are now on top of the joists, so...

The earth terminal in the box is there so that the box can be earthed, as well as the socket. Just run your circuit earth to the socket, and then a wire link from the socket earth terminal to the box.

For the right hand side box, switch off the switch on the right-hand end of it (have a torch with you, the lights will go out!) then unscrew the metal bolt and then pull the top part of the lid towards you, and it should fold downwards. Fuse holders should be underneath. On the left hand box...