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Cant you dot and dab plasterboard over the existing wall. The pipes/conduits in the wall look to be at least partially chased in already. You will only loose an inch and a half and wont have to mess about with battens.

You cannot bury asbestos in the ground :roll:

A spot light intended for use in a bathroom would have a better seal. May be worth a try? Although as these lights cover the lamp with a piece of glass sometimes the output is slightly reduced.

Shame all the decent boilers are condensing. I worked for a heating contractor (as an electrican) who fitted 30000 boilers a year, none were non condensing, and lots were in London flats. I very much doubt the buildings owner would win this if it went to court.

No way would I work somewhere where the customer was spying. And employing people on daywork will probably be dearer than getting a fixed price off them.

This would be better in the electrical section. With the spur turned on, but with the fuse removed, you are switching the neutral 'on'. You will always get a low reading (in ohms) between neutral and earth, as these are connected together either beside the meter, or outside in the street.

Bad practice really. You may be able to snap/break the protruding screws off. Be careful or it could ruin the finish on the ceiling below.

Ive also seen similar still in service, in schools.

Would this be the same heating 'engineers' that: use earths as lives, run cables in notches with hot pipes, run bare singles to timers, fit room stats above radiators, use the bare earth in twin and earth as a live, feed boilers directly from the ring with no spur, chop all the bonding...

I wonder if the OP is the guy I gave a price to the other day?! :lol: :lol: 20x branded downlighters and connection boxes, and 100m of cable is £300-400 odd alone.

Well it looks like Part P is working well down south :lol:

I regulary work on refurbs with customers and other trades on the loose between my visits, I would never leave site without fixing all the accessories back to the wall, even if I was going to the wholesaler (or the cafe :lol: ).

I use the coupling and bush method too, I'd never use a dual box.

Your guessing wrong, theres nothing wrong with it (other than it looks untidy).

It should be after the stopcock, on the consumers side, before any T's.

You would have to be barmy to fit two electric showers. I have got one which is dreadful. An electric shower is around 10,000w compared to a modern combi at around 30,000w.

They won't connect your supply anyway without a valid certificate, from the electrician installing the armoured.

Looks good, I haven't read the whole thread but if you cut a bit off the bottom of the door you won't need to keep it ajar during using the bathroom ;-)

Ok, fair enough :lol:

As TaylorTwoCities has said, it is a case of battening and boarding the ceiling. It also saves a huge amount of chasing, so you will save time there. Have you thought about Part P and how you will notify your rewire?