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I use a 16 gauge nailer and No Nails, however, in my experience Passys cost a lot more than £150 in working order (circa £350 new), the gas has to be in date, the battery contacts tend to blacken or corrode and they require periodic strip down and servicing. A deWalt 16 gauge DC618 (?) coredless...

The main problem with wax finishes is that over time they attract dirt and simply become grubby - the antique trade call this "patina". Oil finishes are traditional - as is using trivets and wiping down spills on worktop surfaces proptly Scrit

If you can't find the batteries you require it may be possible to re-cell them, or have the job done for you. I've had some old Bosch cells refurbished by a company called Re-Cell as Bosch no longer supply the packs I needed - they were upgraded automatically to 2.0Ah at the same time so now...

A little wrinkle for finding studs - get yourself a rare earth magnet, the sort they use in computer disc drives, etc. and "wipe" it slowly across the wall holding quite loosely whilst working progressive sweeps upwards by 1in or so each time. If the magnet gets near to a clout nail it will...

"Just testing the waters"..... then you post a link to someone using a table saw with no blade guard and no riving knife........ It's also a lot easier to do that trick with relatively soft 18mm MDF than it will be with 3in thick English oak. Personally I prefer the bandsaw :D Scrit

Buy a basic 110volt site transformer - cheap, bags of capacity, simple and will do the job. I run my Porter-Cable corded stuff on one Scrit

Perhaps I'd better warn you that there are several kinds of linseed oil. The most common are raw linseed oil, boiled linseed oil and stand oil. The latter two are similar in use, the former (raw) never really dries and so is only of use for cricket bats......... There are, however, a number of...

So how do you guys rate the core drills with extraction from Armeg? And what about that other well known name, Marcrist?

Senco (and others) do collated wood screws and decking screws for this machine....

They did about 6 or 7 years back. It was called the GKS68B and suffered from various ailments the chief being that it was engineered down to a price and the base was nowhere near rigid enough (stamped steel instead of cast ally). How do I know? I bought one......... Needless to say it has...

I'd avoid vegetable oils as they can get fungal growth in a damp environment and they don't contain any of the drier additives you need to ensure that the oil dries (unless of course you add terebenzine driers like those used by professional decorators). Instead use either a worktop oil such as...

With questions like this it always helps to know where you are. 28mm worktops are crap and generally only available up to 3.1 metres. For 4 metres you nee dto go to 38/40mm, so try Montague L. Meyer or Silverman's. Another source is Howden Joinery, but beware as their tops are slightly wider...

I replaced the plinths in a house earlier this year where the hubby and "expert" friend had glued them in place with some form of epoxy. Getting them of the laminate flooring was not fun! Scrit

Makita probably do the most durable belt sanders. My 9400 is now about 25 years old and still going strong in trade use. And I can still get the bits for it (brushes, graphite pad, cork pad, drive belt, knob, rubber gaiter for flex, etc). A mate of mine bought the 4in PowerPro three years back...

I though you were going to ask when Joe was popping round, then :roll:

Some of the ones he shows place your hand beside the blade at the end of the cut. The boot style he shows is not permitted for use in trade workshops because they are dangerous. Beware "training" videos produced by untrained/amateur woodworkers, I'd say I tend to use hardwod or birch plywood...

B&Q supply a cheap 30mm worktop with many of their kitchens which will tend to bow across the width. They also, in my experience, take no care with their stuff and frequently deliver dented and damaged stuff diu to rough handling in the warehouse. Even their 40mm tops aren't much kop. The best...

The push stick is generally made from soft enough plastic that the saw just nifbbles it away like it was timber. I've had quite a few strikes this way with both plastic and wood and rarely does anything come your way, especially if you've got the crown guard in place - another good reason to use...

Q2 Should also have "Daily" as an option Q3 Cordless bandsaw???? Are you sure? Q7 If an option is ticked in one of the columns against one issue it cannot be ticked in the same column for another, so you can't tick Somewhat for "price", "color" and "features" - only one of them! Scrit

Hi MA The most obvious way to build a gate which will handle gusty winds is to emulate the "hit-and-miss" fencing utilised by councils, schools, hospitals where a series of 4 x 1in planks with a 1 to 2in wide gap are nailed one side of a frame and then more 4 x 1s are nailed on the opposite...