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UPVC windows normally sit on top of the cill . You may be lucky and be able to remove the mortar under it and slide it out but i doubt that will happen . Just whip the window out and replace the cill .

Good thinking ! Bet you got covered in sawdust :lol:

Not too far from me but i'm stacked with work right now .

Glue and screw not nails . Maybe glue and screw the new stop on and use a top bearing guided flush cutting router bit to remove the un wanted old stop . If the frame is not to far out then adjusting the hinges the other way to your out of wind will put it right . It's probably quicker to...

A door should'nt open into a kitchen unless it's part glazed . Same reason you don't open a front door out .

Yes a tad high i think , is that supply only :lol: What area of London are you in ? I'm in London myself but not sure if we are allowed to offer prices or contact details on this forum ?

:lol: Find a local joiner rather than a window company . What area are you in ?

Obviously not ! Never had anything " not passed " with top side lights above 900mm not being toughened or laminated .

Did you know your weather bar is missing its D shaped rubber ?

Has the spring sprung ? If not there should be a small hole that you can put a metal dowel in to stop it going when you cut the other wire . I had this problem when i salveged a roller shutter for my workshop . Like a true pro i wound a rope around the roller about 20 times , tied the end to the...

A what ? Where did you hear that rubbish ?

Brad , don't you have the same spindle moulder as me ? I assume your local , you could run it off in no time .

Have a look here http://www.systemplaton.com/

Or find a local joiner who can run you off any moulding you want .

Glue and screws .

I would replace the rafters if needed and lay the glass on top of them using a gasket system . http://www.master-plastics.co.uk/index.html?rid=google&target=dept_488.html&lang=en-gb That sort of thing .

There was a thread a while ago on here where some one was having some made for £400 per door , that's cheap . I'd want double that myself .

I normally leave 12-18mm , more so 12mm and then when the carpets go down the door can be shot in . I dont think it,s down to the builder myself , how is he to know if you are having thick or thin carpet , lino or solid wood floors .

I would make boxes to the shape you need them and then fix a face frame to that to hide any gaps between the boxes and ceiling . This would also give you good fixings for hanging rails and adjustable shelves .

The 6mm timber will want to cup and may split , also your architrave wont have a good fixing to it . If you are going this way i would use 18mm timber and put in a whole new frame ( your architrave will hide the old frame ) Bit of a long winded way to hang a door but each to thier own i spose .