1-10V fluorescent dimming

[toasty]

BAS,

That's what I did at home. Stage 0-10v dimmers and then just a pot on a blanking plate in each room.

I just used a wallwart variable psu set to 7.5v to provide the DC current, as it's unregulated it gives about 10v on this setting.

I just used CAT5 cable and even rj45s on the end!!
Obviously you need to use linear not Log pots.


Pics..
http://www.yourmissus.com/lighting/pages/singleswitch.html
http://www.yourmissus.com/lighting/pages/doubleswitchclose.html
http://www.yourmissus.com/lighting/pages/dimmerrack1.html
http://www.yourmissus.com/lighting/pages/singleinplace.html

The full story here - http://www.yourmissus.com/lighting/

(ignore all the talk of DMX, I used that too)

Hope this helps
Dan

 

[Spark123]

I found the Soundlab dimmer packs a bit too flimsy, do you find that they blow triacs if a lamp pops?
I installed something a little less complicated which was to control 4 lighting circuits from a remote location using an NJD analogue dimmer pack, these seem a bit more robust albeit I changed the F10A fuses in it for F5A ones. To date I haven't lost a triac on them.
The other advantage is the NJD gives a supply voltage out to connect to the control box but on the version I have doesn't use DMX so a demux would be required.

 

[SUNRAY]

I found the Soundlab dimmer packs a bit too flimsy, do you find that they blow triacs if a lamp pops?
I installed something a little less complicated which was to control 4 lighting circuits from a remote location using an NJD analogue dimmer pack, these seem a bit more robust albeit I changed the F10A fuses in it for F5A ones. To date I haven't lost a triac on them.
The other advantage is the NJD gives a supply voltage out to connect to the control box but on the version I have doesn't use DMX so a demux would be required.

We had a clearout recently and dumped about 30 old broken 'stage type' dimmer packs, I reckon 30% were soundlab.

 

[toasty]

mine are only dimming about 40watts per channel, maybe 100 at the most.
So far (5years) I've not blown any triacs, but I'm not surprised considering the tiny loads involved.... I've got two x four channel, one upstairs, and one downstairs.

 

[SUNRAY]

mine are only dimming about 40watts per channel, maybe 100 at the most.
So far (5years) I've not blown any triacs, but I'm not surprised considering the tiny loads involved.... I've got two x four channel, one upstairs, and one downstairs.

Theyre ok but cheap and cheerful, as with most thing you get what you pay for.
Soundlab kit is designed for basic economy mobile disco type use and its ok till it goes wrong. when it does its cheaper to replace than repair it. Its not very well built and tends to fall apart with the constant handling then short out and blow up.

When its fitted in somewhere it will probably last forever however I'm a little surprised that its stable with loads as low as 40W and doesn't flicker but I don't suppose I have ever tried that.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks for all the various replies, even though there's no agreement amongst any of you

Basically all I would want to do would be to have 1 knob to twiddle with my fingers to control a few lights a few m away in the same room, with 1-10v dimming ballasts (which I'm pretty sure is not the same system as 0-10v), so DALI, DMX etc are all a bit of overkill if the knob I twiddle can be on the shaft of a simple variable resistor, value and curve TBD....

 

[SUNRAY]

Thanks for all the various replies, even though there's no agreement amongst any of you

Basically all I would want to do would be to have 1 knob to twiddle with my fingers to control a few lights a few m away in the same room, with 1-10v dimming ballasts (which I'm pretty sure is not the same system as 0-10v), so DALI, DMX etc are all a bit of overkill if the knob I twiddle can be on the shaft of a simple variable resistor, value and curve TBD....

I'm sure this detail will be in the manufacturers info

 

[333rocky333]

We get ones with 4 terminals.
2 for the bit connecting to the dimming ballasts
1 is used for 240 volt in, the other a 240 volt switched output used to feed a multigang klikrose unit
They do not require a neutral.
They look like normal rotary dimmers and push on/ off for the mains supply
They are foreign but obtainable from braintree essex
http://www.riegens.com/
they are used in the optical testing rooms in tesco stores.

 

[sparkybird]

Hi Ban

Yes multi-load do a push on/off and twiddle to dim in a single module for grid plate. I fitted 2 recently for some shelf lights for a customer.

The boffins at multi load are very helpful. Check the website or give them a call. They are UK made - hurrah! Support the economy!

www.multiload.co.uk


SB