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I must have missed you saying that.
Me too, (and for the same reason ;)).

He did talk about cutting down a PVC box, but I thought that was because cutting the normal sort (polycarbonate?) often ends in tears.
 
cutting the normal sort (polycarbonate?) often ends in tears

The 'good' boxes for cutting/drilling can be either PVC or ABS plastic. The crappy ones you're thinking of that shatter if a cordless drill looks at them are made of Urea-Formaldehyde.
 
Yo - I wasn't sure, hence putting it in (brackets?) like that. Now you say what it is, I remember.

Aren't the "crappy ones" by far the most common, though?
 
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Aren't the "crappy ones" by far the most common, though?

In my experience, the only people who still use them are electricians over the age of 60!!

They were the 'most convenient' back in the day before cordless drills were commonplace, because you can open up the knock-outs with a pair of side cutters. Much easier than faffing with a hand powered drill or getting the big corded drill and destroying the box!
 
In my experience, the only people who still use them are electricians over the age of 60!!
Are you talking in general, or only of use with plastic conduit?

If you're talking generally, I find it hard to believe what you are saying. I hardly ever see PVC surface boxes, virtually all being urea-formaldehyde - and a look at any supplier's catalogue would seem to suggest that the market is much larger for the latter. PVC ones are often hidden away in the 'conduit' section.

Horrible though urea-formadehyde is to work on (albeit not impossible once one has mastered the art), it's performance in the presence of heat or fire is obviously far superior to that of PVC.

KInd Regards, John
 
Are you talking in general,

I did mean in general, yes.

Maybe it's just the particular companies I work with then. PVC is the norm. I would have thought most people would have become annoyed with the downsides of urea-formaldehyde by now. I've shattered several, just screwing it to the wall, despite how particular I am about using the torque setting on a cordless drill when screwdriving with it.
 
I hardly ever see PVC surface boxes
Ditto - and mostly installed by networking people (network) alongside the UF ones installed by the electricians (power).
Horrible though urea-formadehyde is to work on (albeit not impossible once one has mastered the art), it's performance in the presence of heat or fire is obviously far superior to that of PVC.
Not only that, but they stay the shape they are supposed to be - though you have to be careful not to overdo the screws and crack them. PVC ones are a right PITA if the surface isn't absolutely flat as they flex to the shape of the surface and then the accessory doesn't fit properly (unless that's also PVC and flexes to suit). Good fun if working on an unrendered/unplastered block wall :evil:
It's not too hard to fit conduit into UF boxes - just needs a bit of care, ie don't just spin the drill up to full speed and press as hard as you can like many gorillas do :rolleyes: The biggest problem is all those internal mouldings (knockouts) that get in the way of the nut or bushing (n)

I've shattered several, just screwing it to the wall, despite how particular I am about using the torque setting on a cordless drill when screwdriving with it.
Ah well, if you will use brute force rather than "feeling" with a manual screwdriver ...
I guess you work in environments using lots of conduit - if so then yes, I'd expect you to see a higher proportion of PVC boxes.
 
I did mean in general, yes. Maybe it's just the particular companies I work with then. PVC is the norm.
I do think your experiences are atypical. As I said, you've only got to look at what is on sale - which strongly suggests that the market for PVC ones is pretty small.
I would have thought most people would have become annoyed with the downsides of urea-formaldehyde by now.
They do have their downsides, at least until one has mastered the art of 'dealing with them' - but, as I said, they have major upsides in terms of their behaviour in the face of heat or fire. I'm actually a little surprised that PVC ones are even 'allowed', given how that material behaves in the face of heat or fire.
I've shattered several, just screwing it to the wall, despite how particular I am about using the torque setting on a cordless drill when screwdriving with it.
That's a very good way of shattering them. Use a manual screwdriver.

Kind Regards, John
 
I've even seen them nailed in place :eek: Was a right b****ard to get off intact when I was sorting out the wiring for a mate. Had to drag an airline upstairs and grind the head off with a burr.
 
I've even seen them nailed in place :eek: Was a right b****ard to get off intact when I was sorting out the wiring for a mate. Had to drag an airline upstairs and grind the head off with a burr.
Plan B:

Tell your mate to pop out and buy some replacements while you remove the old ones with a hammer.
 
I'm not quite 60 yet!

All my working life I have used PVC boxes for PVC conduit/ SWA (or metalclad with galv or BE conduit) and "bog-standard" rigid moulded boxes (UF or whatever) for everything else.
 

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