I am not a complete dunce with electrics but 12v lighting is still a mystery to me. I have two 12v wall lights both controlled by the same dimmer switch but one has just stopped lighting. I examined the G4 lamps carefully and all appear to be intact so I am wondering if the light fittings which are quite bulky and have holes in them contain separate transformers and one has failed as I cannot think of another solution at present HELP! Yes I only moved into the house a few months ago so was not involved in the installation.
12 v wall lights probem
- Thread starter Eccles
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do you have a multimeter with volts DC & volts AC - if you can get access you could test if voltage going to transformer - 240V and if out put from transformer 12V DC
Post a picture of that which you have of the "12v lighting" and (if possible) the model number thereof.
12 V lighting will be supplied by the 'Supply Voltage" of 230 V and "transformed" to 12 V - either by "magic" or via a "Swich Mode Power Supply" (SMPS}
G4 LED Lamps require a low current 12 V supply (DC or AC - depending ?)
G4 Halogen Lamps require a higher current 12 V supply, but stop using them.
the G4 lamps, is it possible swap them around and then seeing if the problem moves to the other light fitting or not?
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Yes.
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The switch mode power supply often has a minimum output, so one lamp blowing can cause the power supply to close down, so you can test supply in to the power supply but not so easy to test supply out, also some dimmer switches also can auto disconnect if load too high, so best to replace with standard switch until fault is found.
I assume your using quartz halogen as you say looks OK and nothing to see with LED lights, but at some point you will be forced to go down the LED route, so it may be better to do that now rather than latter.
The whole reason for extra low voltage lights (230 volt AC is low voltage) is so the filament is thicker so will last longer, once you move to LED low voltage is often a better option, as you can often get smart versions which I have not seen with extra low voltage.
So you need to consider if best option is to ditch extra low voltage and move to low voltage. Even if at some time in the future, one has to question changing a high frequency output switched mode power supply for a smooth DC switch mode power supply if in a short time you will want to swap the whole fitting.
I assume your using quartz halogen as you say looks OK and nothing to see with LED lights, but at some point you will be forced to go down the LED route, so it may be better to do that now rather than latter.
The whole reason for extra low voltage lights (230 volt AC is low voltage) is so the filament is thicker so will last longer, once you move to LED low voltage is often a better option, as you can often get smart versions which I have not seen with extra low voltage.
So you need to consider if best option is to ditch extra low voltage and move to low voltage. Even if at some time in the future, one has to question changing a high frequency output switched mode power supply for a smooth DC switch mode power supply if in a short time you will want to swap the whole fitting.
Thanks to gents who have replied so far I understand the advantages of LEDs very well and the other (working) wall lamp already has a two of the three "branches" fitted with G4 LED's quite successfully. The non working wall lamp however has all G4 halogens none of which have "blown" filaments as far as I can see using a magnifying glass but none of the three "branches" are lit. Should I unscrew it from the wall, hopefully find a small transformer inside and replace it??
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Since you have two lamps, you can test bulbs in the good lamp.
But you do need some test equipment. But pictures are good, what does it say on the transformer?
But you do need some test equipment. But pictures are good, what does it say on the transformer?
Just to let folks know the outcome: Unscrewed the light fitting from the wall and there inside it was an "Eaglerise" circular transfomer (to supply the old style halogen lamps. Used my multimeter and discovered that the cables from the wall were a live supply at 240v but cables from the transformer to the lamps were dead. Conclusion:- the transformer had died and Eaglerise say it is now obsolete. So I decided to bite the bullet and change the lamps to G4 LEDs which are cheap as chips and obtain an LED driver (transformer) to suit. 'course I have to find an LED driver is small enough to fit into the light fitting and this took a while but eventually I found one on ebay which was just 76 mm long and a nice chinese man assured me that it was able to protect the lamps in various ways beyond my comprehension. Hopefully he is telling the truth and time will tell but seeing as it was only £5.66, I will not be impoverished if it doesn't last long ( he guarantees it for 5 years woohoo.)
5 Chinese years?
As it happens a lot of Chinese stuff is pretty good these days. I have a Lorus watch which is now approaching 20 years of age. When I opened it last week to put a new battery in, printed on the inside of the back it says made in PRC.
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