1960s house

Don't know - after the introduction of PVC cable. I have a vague feeling it was 30-ish years ago, but I've no actual knowledge
 
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From what to what :?:

I have some 1970 and present day 2.5 t&e and I can see no difference.
 
C.P.C. in 2.5mm used to be 1.0mm but only with certain manufacturers, now 1.5mm is used, don't come across it much but every now and then..
 
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Hi All,
First post for me... I too have just bought a house built around the 60's. Current occupant has told me that the house was re-wired about 28 years ago, when she moved in. She was a council tenant at the time, so I would assume it was done to pretty good standards. :confused:

Could anyone give me an indication on what I should be looking for to see how modern the wiring is? I am prepared for a re-wire if required...

The property has a fuse box, not an RCD - but I will be getting that changed. I have had a ceiling rose off, and there is earth wiring in place, although I'm not sure what this tells me!

I have read the stuff earlier about changes in regulations, but wonder how much that really effects existing wiring?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hasgaroth said:
Hi All,
First post for me... I too have just bought a house built around the 60's. Current occupant has told me that the house was re-wired about 28 years ago, when she moved in. She was a council tenant at the time, so I would assume it was done to pretty good standards. :confused:
No guarantee of that. In fact, council workmen, mid-1970's, possibly a guarantee of the exact opposite :confused:

Could anyone give me an indication on what I should be looking for to see how modern the wiring is? I am prepared for a re-wire if required...

The property has a fuse box, not an RCD - but I will be getting that changed. I have had a ceiling rose off, and there is earth wiring in place, although I'm not sure what this tells me!
"getting that changed" implies an electrician in to do it. Discuss it with him - there are some tests he can easily run while he's replacing it (probably should be running anyway), and if he's already there for a paid job he might have a quick poke around at no extra cost.

I have read the stuff earlier about changes in regulations, but wonder how much that really effects existing wiring?
There is not, and has never been, a requirement to retroactively impose regulations - you do not have to go back and change things that suddenly don't meet new regulations (mmm. I can just hear the Business Development Manager at NICEIC thinking "Now there's an idea").
But there will be a requirement to update earthing and bonding if you have any new wiring installed that relies on these existing parts of your installation. Also, any plumbing work in the bathroom means that equipotential bonding will have to be installed.

BTW - if you are having a fuse box replaced by a CU with RCD, be prepared for problems to surface that you didn't know you had - see //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4677
 
C.P.C. in 2.5mm used to be 1.0mm but only with certain manufacturers, now 1.5mm is used, don't come across it much but every now and then..
:oops: Oops - should have checked other ring circuit - house must have a partial rewire as the upstairs ring has a smaller cpc.

Does this mean that is a 4 on obs and recommendations if it passes a perodic inspec report. :?:

Ban-all-sheds has suggested a rewire if it fails
if you, say, extend a ring, or add a spur, and you've got old cable where the protective conductor is too small to give you a fast enough disconnect time then you will have to replace all of the cable on that circuit
.

]How can I test current wiring for disconnect time and is there any other way of ensuring passing this test :?:

If I have to rewire from the cu, can I di this by simple off switch at the cu :?:
Double pole switch should isolate supply but I am a very careful guy :!: ]
 
Pass on the Q about the PIR.

I don't think you actually test the disconnection time - you measure the earth fault loop resistance and calculate it - see http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.4.htm for details.

Switching off at the CU should be fine for simply inserting the ends of a ring into the neutral bar and MCB.
 
Ban-all-sheds

Can I come back to you once I have a chance to read the section.on disconnect times

Have ordered "The Electrians Guide" along with the "IEE on site guide"


What next - maybe "Which book of wiring and Lighting" and Collins book on the same subject.
 
Funny you should mention that - I'm in the middle of choosing some books.

I've more-or-less decided that the Which? book and the Collins would have far too much noddy stuff about how to wire up a plug and how 2-way light switches work. Also beware - the current Collins is out of date, and the new one isn't published yet.

This one looks interesting: http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0750659157
 
Ban-all-Sheds : Thanks for those points! I will be getting a qualified electrician in to do the replacement board - wouldn't even consider tackling that myself! :)
Have also read the article about the RCD... interesting! Sounds like the electrician should really have the power to disconnect supply and inform the supply company in that type of situation!
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Funny you should mention that - I'm in the middle of choosing some books.

I've more-or-less decided that the Which? book and the Collins would have far too much noddy stuff about how to wire up a plug and how 2-way light switches work. Also beware - the current Collins is out of date, and the new one isn't published yet.

This one looks interesting: http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0750659157[/QUOTE]

Looks bang up to date (june 2003) and sounds interesting.
Seems pitched at the right level as well.
 

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