2 gang switch - standard AND RF

[CrazyFool]

Hi guys.

I'm after a 2 gang switch, one of the switches needs to be a standard/dumb/hard switch.
The other gang needs to be an RF switch.

What are my options please?

Thanks in advance

CF

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Couple of easy options:
1 Use an impulse relay- dumb switch becomes push to make, rf switch needs same functionality.
2 Some WiFi power controllers have a local on/off button on the case. Extend that button to your ptm dumb switch.

 

[CrazyFool]

Couple of easy options:
1 Use an impulse relay- dumb switch becomes push to make, rf switch needs same functionality.
2 Some WiFi power controllers have a local on/off button on the case. Extend that button to your ptm dumb switch.

Thanks buddy. Thats genius.
I won't be able to get a WiFi power controller behind the switch as there is no neutral and they all rely on this, however I might be able to put an rf fob in the back box and wire this to the switch.
How do I turn a standard toggle switch into push to make?

Kind regards

CF

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You don't alas. You either keep the original switch & tell users to switch it on then off again for function or (if it is a 1 gang switch) buy one. If its 2 or more gang you'd have to go to gridswitch or similar.
Is this a real RF setup you're going for or WiFi smart switching type thing? There are loads of WiFi smart light switches that can run without a neutral..

 

[plugwash]

How do I turn a standard toggle switch into push to make?

You don't.

However you can put a regular switch and a push switch (reffered to as a "retractive switch" by UK electrical accessory vendors) on the same plate using a modular range. Scolmore click has the nice feature that their regular lightswitches are built from thier modular range and yet the preassembled switches are priced to be competitive with other brands non-modular products. This makes the total cost of an assembly considerablly cheaper than with brands whose modular range is seperate from their regular range.

If you buy

https://www.toolstation.com/click-mode-10a-switch/p10481
https://www.toolstation.com/click-mode-grid-module/p43236

Then you can just unscrew one of the regular switches from the back of the plate and screw on the retractive switch.

 

[CrazyFool]

You don't alas. You either keep the original switch & tell users to switch it on then off again for function or (if it is a 1 gang switch) buy one. If its 2 or more gang you'd have to go to gridswitch or similar.
Is this a real RF setup you're going for or WiFi smart switching type thing? There are loads of WiFi smart light switches that can run without a neutral..

Thanks buddy
Can't do Wifi, not only do I not have a neutral, but I don't even have a live/switch live for this particular circuit going to the switch. The cupboard lights are powered by socket. My plan is to attach a Sonoff RF so that the circuit can be controlled by RF. Let me know if there is a better/easier way to do this.

You don't.

However you can put a regular switch and a push switch (reffered to as a "retractive switch" by UK electrical accessory vendors) on the same plate using a modular range. Scolmore click has the nice feature that their regular lightswitches are built from thier modular range and yet the preassembled switches are priced to be competitive with other brands non-modular products. This makes the total cost of an assembly considerablly cheaper than with brands whose modular range is seperate from their regular range.

If you buy

https://www.toolstation.com/click-mode-10a-switch/p10481
https://www.toolstation.com/click-mode-grid-module/p43236

Then you can just unscrew one of the regular switches from the back of the plate and screw on the retractive switch.

That product looks perfect. Excellent value for money.
Do you know if there any RF 'remotes' that come bare and all you would need to do is screw the switch wire onto the terminals? I'm not great at soldering so don't want to rip open an old fob, desolder the current switch and re-solder the wire going to the Scolmore switch.
I don't suppose Scolmore do a switch that has an RF module attached or any other gridswitch manufacturer for that matter, or is that too asking for too much?

Kind regards

CF

 

[flameport]

One of these at the switch: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html
can be used with any normal on/off switch, not necessary to obtain special switches.

and this receiver unit: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMESR1.html at the light or whatever is being controlled.

 

[CrazyFool]

One of these at the switch: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html
can be used with any normal on/off switch, not necessary to obtain special switches.

and this receiver unit: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMESR1.html at the light or whatever is being controlled.

Thanks buddy but it seems like an expensive solution for something that doesn't have WiFi functionality.
A sonoff RF costs a fiver and a RF transmitter fob costs a quid. Granted this requires soldering a reactive push button to the key fob botton.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Hmm. This socket-is it on a ring final (or is the socket switched from somewhere else)?
Actually, a more comprehensive description of what you have now & what you're trying to achieve would be helpful...

 

[CrazyFool]

Hmm. This socket-is it on a ring final (or is the socket switched from somewhere else)?
Actually, a more comprehensive description of what you have now & what you're trying to achieve would be helpful...

You're right.
I'm not sure what the socket innards look like but the lights are standard led lights that connect to a led driver and then to the plug.
My idea is to put a Sonoff RF in between the led driver and the plug. That way I can control the circuit using WiFi and also using a manual RF switch.
Wiring the Sonoff is the easy bit, connecting the rf key fob is easy enough too.
I'm just worried about dismantling a key fob and soldering wire to it that allows controlling it via retractove switch

 

[oldbutnotdead]

OK.
So at the socket there will be live, neutral and earth- happy days.
The wiring to the switchplate-presumably that is visible, surface mounted etc? And the switch is a standard 1g switchplate, not a random built-in device?
Prettiest solution (but maybe not the best) is Sonoff power module from socket switching the LED driver on and off. Replace your 1g switch with a Sonoff 1g switch, reterminate switch wires so they only send L and N (and ideally E) to the new Sonoff switch.
Program switch functions in the Ewelink app.
Downsides- cost and if you lose broadband you lose control of that light.
Better solution is same Sonoff power module but get the lid off it & solder your switch wires in parallel with the wee button. Downside- fiddly soldering job. Upside- switch works with or without broadband.

 

[AndyPRK]

I think some used an MK grid switch to do what you want