2 Switch Dimmer from a 1 switch standard plug

[galsie2001]

Hi folks,

I have just put up some new halogen lights; one set at the far end of the kitchen and one set close to the door.

I've bought a Hartland 2G 2 way 400W switch dimmer and wondered what is the best way to wire this in?

I've taken the face plate of the old single switch off and there is a red and black wire secured to terminals and a sheathed yell/grn wire not connected.

Whats the best way to get the new switches working or is it easier to just buy a 1 switch dimmer?!!

Thanks in advance,

Gary

 

[electronicsuk]

Obviously it will be easier to re-use the existing wiring, but if you're willing to replace the cable that runs between the switch and light fittings/junction box, there's nothing to stop you changing to a 2-gang switch.

In any case, the yellow/green wire should be connected to the earth terminal of the backbox (assuming it's metal), unless you're replacing with a plastic switch with a metal one, in which case the earth wire should connect to the earth terminal on the switch plate.

 

[Space cat]

Are your new halogen lights fitted in place of original lights and, if so, did that single switch control both of them? Do the new lights have 230V bulbs or are they low voltage with 'transformers'? Not all of those so called transformers are suitable for dimming.

By the way, halogen lights don't take kindly to dimming.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting


//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p

 

[galsie2001]

Thanks for the responses thus far.

The lights are 2x 4 bulb bar lights and the bulbs are GU10+C 240v 50W. Both bars are replacements for the originals that were controlled by one single switch.

Not being overly knowledgable on the subject, ideally I would like to use the original wiring but wasnt sure if this was possible???

Cheers

 

[electronicsuk]

Not being overly knowledgable on the subject, ideally I would like to use the original wiring but wasnt sure if this was possible???

Not unless both lights were originally on separate switches, I'm afraid.

 

[galsie2001]

Ah!

So i'm thinking buying a single dimmer switch may be the easiest thing to do now then? If this is the case - do I need to buy any particular one to aid with the halogen issue?

Or......How straight forward/costly would it be to re-wire to get the 2 switch system going?

Thanks again guys; really appreciate your help

G

 

[ColJack]

I'll say it before BAS does..

why do you want to dim kitchen lights?
they are there to stop you slicing your finger off, not to make the kitchen look pretty..

the kitchen is a utilitarian area and should be treated as such.. nice big 5 foot twin fluorescent in the middle and under cabinet lighting so you're not standing in your own shadow..

 

[electronicsuk]

So i'm thinking buying a single dimmer switch may be the easiest thing to do now then? If this is the case - do I need to buy any particular one to aid with the halogen issue?

If the lamps are 230v with GU10 base then they can be dimmed directly from any dimmer with a wattage rating equal to or higher than the total wattage of ALL the lamps fed by the dimmer. Be aware that dimmers may state different wattage ratings for different types of load.

If the lamps are extra low voltage with transformers and GU5.3 base, they may or may not be dimmable - you would need to refer to the instructions. The dimmer switch would also need to be suitable for use with transformers and inductive loads, and this would again be indicated in the instructions.

Or......How straight forward/costly would it be to re-wire to get the 2 switch system going?

Depends on what access is available for running cables between the switch and the light fitting, and whether or not the wall will need chasing and making good. It could be anywhere between a couple of hours to half a days work for an electrician. Cost of materials would be negligible, unless your lighting circuit isn't RCD protected, in which case their may be extra costs involved for an RCBO, flexi-shield cable or even a consumer unit upgrade.

It's fairly straightforward work to do yourself if you care to gain some basic knowledge through reading the Wiki on this site, and assuming you can locate the live loop in/out or junction box feeding the existing lights.

Of course, the work is technically notifiable to your LABC on account of being in a kitchen, which at £150+ means that unless you want to be in contravention with part P of the building regs, it'd be cheaper and easier to get someone in. Sorry, but that's the state of things now

 

[Steve]

I'll say it before BAS does..

why do you want to dim kitchen lights?

Because he's chosen a type of lighting that creates very bright areas and very dark areas. He wants the very bright bits to not appear as such, and the very dark bits to not appear as such. By dimming the bright bits, the dark btis wont appear as dark.

Oh, and I bet he's trying to save energy too. But nobody's told him that dimmers dont work proportionally, and that dimming halogens shortens their life.

 

[ColJack]

if the bright spots are too bright then fit 35W lamps or 20W lamps.. it's not rocket science.. ( works for power saving too.. )

unless you live in one of these open plan houses / flats where the kitchen is visible from the lounge / dining area then I see no reason to be able to "set the scene" with lighting.. what's the point?

you walk in, turn the light on, make the dinner / cup of tea etc, then walk out and turn the light off.. ( saving MUCH more power than leaving it on dimmed .. )

if he wants less light on some occasions then ( if the fitting is wired that way ) then you can split the lives up into groups and adjust the switch wiring so that you can switch some, half, 3/4 or all of the lights on.. ( binary dimming as I like to call it.. )

 

[electronicsuk]

if he wants less light on some occasions then ( if the fitting is wired that way ) then you can split the lives up into groups and adjust the switch wiring so that you can switch some, half, 3/4 or all of the lights on.. ( binary dimming as I like to call it.. )

Tomata, tomato. Whether the OP wants to achieve dimming through the method described above or by using a dimmer switch is of little concern? Not to mention that these could be pre-fabricated sets where control of individual lamps is not possible, or he/she doesn't want a 4-way switch plate on the wall.

 

[galsie2001]

Thanks very much Matt for your advice; I will look into what youve mentioned and hopefully resolve the issue soon.

Cheers,

Gary

 

[galsie2001]

Oh and yes, I do have an open plan lounge/kitchen hence why I am going for the dimmer as the lights are a bit hardcore compared to the lounge. Point noted on the bulb wattage though.......